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Torsion bar install question

Posted By: 6PAX

Torsion bar install question - 11/26/23 08:13 PM

I understand that when installing torsion bars you are supposed to let the lower control arms hang and insert the torsion bar when it's hex lines up with the hex in the lca while raising it to get it to line up. How far are you supposed to let the lca hang? Right now I don't have anything bolted in place as I am installing everything from scratch. There is no suspension on the car other than the ucas (which aren't attached to the spindles as the spindles aren't mounted yet) and the lcas. I have the passenger side tbar a little way into the trans. crossmember and the lca hanging basically vertically as the strut rod isn't in place yet. I can insert the tbar into the lca by just raising the lca a little bit. But if I lift the lca up a little bit more the tbar will also go in on the next set of flats on the hex with the lca still angled somewhat toward the floor. I then have to lift it a little further to get the strut rod to go in the lca. So, how far is the lca supposed to be hanging when inserting the tbar?
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/26/23 09:13 PM

It is your choice up, I have let them hang down as far as needed to get the job done, I slide the torsion bar back into the tranny crossmember to keep it close so I can slide it forward into where it goes when I'm assembling the rest (lower control arm) of those parts CRS blush
The 1970 Charger R/T I rebuilt the front end gave me a little battle on assembling the driver side LCA and torsion bar, the passenger side went together like a dream boogie grin Dang Murphy anyways shruggy workLet us know how yours goes wrench up
Posted By: ackpht

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/26/23 09:49 PM

I suggest bolting both control arms in place and attaching the spindle to both. From memory:

If the bump stop is installed adjacent to the upper control arm, remove it- you're gong to need all the downward travel you can get to get the torsion bar into the lower control arm. Likewise remove the height-adjuster bolt on the lower control arm, if it is installed.

Grease the hole in he chassis mount that holds the back end of the torsion bar.

Determine correct orientation/side for your torsion bar. I forget whether you slide it in from the front side or the rear side of the chassis mount, but you can figure it out. Slide it in about halfway and install the grease boot.

Grease both ends of the torsion bar.

Put a floor jack under the spindle to hold it in position, and raise/lower it as needed. You can also tap on the "finger" of the height adjuster to rotate the socket where the torsion bar will go, but using the jack is probably easier.

Align the torsion bar to the lower control arm and tap it into place (hammer and wood block on back end). If it won't go, swear, check the elevation of the spindle, and retry.

Continue driving the torsion bar forward until the back end clears the retaining groove in the hole of the chassis mount. Install snap ring.

Stuff more grease around the torsion bar from the front side of the chassis mount and slide the boot over it.

Install bump stop and height adjuster bolt that you took out earlier.
Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/26/23 11:34 PM

Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
It is your choice up, I have let them hang down as far as needed to get the job done, :


This is what I don't understand. The tbar will go in in either position of the lca. But, if I go with the first option I mentioned with the lca hanging all the way down and vertical to the floor, will this not twist the torsion bar more than the second position I mentioned when I raise the lca up and lock it in place?
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 12:43 AM

It has been my experience that with the tbar adjuster loosened all the way. Still threaded into the bracket though.

You will install the t bar so that you will need to jack it up an inch or two to connect the lower ball joint.

Don't forget the strut rod or bushings... DAMHIK

That has been my experience. Hope it helps.
Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 01:53 AM

I didn't measure but if I put the tbar in the socket with the lca hanging all the way down I believe it would have to be jacked up more than an inch or two to connect it to the spindle. Also, as I mentioned, I think it would twist the tbar quite a bit more to get to where I could attach the lca to the spindle. Maybe the second position when I lift up the lca by hand is the one I need to insert the tbar into. I don't know but I hope I can get the tbar install finished tomorrow.
Posted By: TJP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:16 AM

per the manual the UCA, LCA and spindle should be in place WITHOUT the UCA bumper and hanging. Then do the following. DO NOT tighten any of the bolts on the UCA bushings or LCA pivot until the suspension is fully loaded with the engine etc. and the initial height is set

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Posted By: A12

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:19 AM

Says or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual but the first page does show the "strut" in place on the LCA that would limit how far the LCA could drop without a T-bar installed.



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Posted By: TJP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:23 AM

Originally Posted by A12
Say or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual shruggy



it does but in a different area. wink See post above yours beer
Posted By: stumpy

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 04:31 AM

Down all the way. If you lift the lca up you won't get enough preload on the T bars and you will end up having to reinstall them. No need to do the job twice.
Posted By: A12

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by A12
Say or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual shruggy



it does but in a different area. wink See post above yours beer


Thanks seems I was trying to convert the only shop manual torsion bar info I found to a format I could post and didn't see your post blush. beer back at you.
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:34 PM

Originally Posted by 6PAX
I understand that when installing torsion bars you are supposed to let the lower control arms hang and insert the torsion bar when it's hex lines up with the hex in the lca while raising it to get it to line up. How far are you supposed to let the lca hang? Right now I don't have anything bolted in place as I am installing everything from scratch. There is no suspension on the car other than the ucas (which aren't attached to the spindles as the spindles aren't mounted yet) and the lcas. I have the passenger side tbar a little way into the trans. crossmember and the lca hanging basically vertically as the strut rod isn't in place yet. I can insert the tbar into the lca by just raising the lca a little bit. But if I lift the lca up a little bit more the tbar will also go in on the next set of flats on the hex with the lca still angled somewhat toward the floor. I then have to lift it a little further to get the strut rod to go in the lca. So, how far is the lca supposed to be hanging when inserting the tbar?



Hanging vertically is too far down , your second attempt sounds correct. As others have noted having the spindle in the mix and the 3 pieces attached to each other is where to start.
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by ackpht
I suggest bolting both control arms in place and attaching the spindle to both. From memory:

If the bump stop is installed adjacent to the upper control arm, remove it- you're gong to need all the downward travel you can get to get the torsion bar into the lower control arm. Likewise remove the height-adjuster bolt on the lower control arm, if it is installed.

Grease the hole in he chassis mount that holds the back end of the torsion bar.

Determine correct orientation/side for your torsion bar. I forget whether you slide it in from the front side or the rear side of the chassis mount, but you can figure it out. Slide it in about halfway and install the grease boot.

Grease both ends of the torsion bar.

Put a floor jack under the spindle to hold it in position, and raise/lower it as needed. You can also tap on the "finger" of the height adjuster to rotate the socket where the torsion bar will go, but using the jack is probably easier.

Align the torsion bar to the lower control arm and tap it into place (hammer and wood block on back end). If it won't go, swear, check the elevation of the spindle, and retry.

Continue driving the torsion bar forward until the back end clears the retaining groove in the hole of the chassis mount. Install snap ring.

Stuff more grease around the torsion bar from the front side of the chassis mount and slide the boot over it.

Install bump stop and height adjuster bolt that you took out earlier.

This, I leave the height adjuster bolt and its block in place with the bolt backed out so the link is setting on the block.




Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 03:40 PM

Originally Posted by A12
Says or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual but the first page does show the "strut" in place on the LCA that would limit how far the LCA could drop without a T-bar installed.



The strut needs to be in place BUT EVERYTHING LOOSE , otherwise you won't be getting it in afterwards.
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 05:48 PM

Originally Posted by 6PAX
I didn't measure but if I put the tbar in the socket with the lca hanging all the way down I believe it would have to be jacked up more than an inch or two to connect it to the spindle. Also, as I mentioned, I think it would twist the tbar quite a bit more to get to where I could attach the lca to the spindle. Maybe the second position when I lift up the lca by hand is the one I need to insert the tbar into. I don't know but I hope I can get the tbar install finished tomorrow.


Like someone said if you have the Strut Rod installed it won't go too far down.

I never remover the Upper Control arm bumper, hence the reason I need to jack it back up the last inch or two. The bumper holds the spindle up a little higher.
Posted By: CYACOP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/27/23 10:47 PM

ackpht is dead on . Just follow this and it will all go right together. I just took one apart on Saturday. Pay attention to what he said about the bumper. Look at the numbers for the left and right sides too.
Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/28/23 01:35 AM

I just came in from the garage. I did as suggested, put all parts in place but left loose. The driver side bar went in fairly easily but had a hard time with the passenger side. Actually, I'm not finished with it. Having a hard time driving the bar forward to get it all the way in the hex socket on the trans. mount. Gonna get back at it tomorrow. So, once I have it in place, should I not tighten everything up until I have the wheels/tires on the car and set the ride height? Then tighten everything up? Anything else I should be aware of?
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/28/23 02:53 AM

Tighten everything except the control arm pivots.

They should be just loose enough to allow them to pivot and not bind the bushings.

Set the ride height with the wheels on the ground and while the suspension is still on the ground supporting the car tighten the pivots.
Posted By: 6PakBee

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/28/23 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by IMGTX
Tighten everything except the control arm pivots.

They should be just loose enough to allow them to pivot and not bind the bushings.

Set the ride height with the wheels on the ground and while the suspension is still on the ground supporting the car tighten the pivots.


Very important so the rubber insert in the bushing is not deformed (twisted) at ride height.
Posted By: CYACOP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/29/23 01:02 AM

Try to get someone to wiggle up and down on the spindle as you try to install the passenger torsion bar. It could also be grease packed in the other end hydraulically stopping it.
Posted By: ackpht

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/29/23 06:43 PM

I will add that using Vise-Grips or such on torsion bars is not advisable as they may leave scratches on the torsion bar which, if deep enough, can turn into cracks. The shop-manual tool for removing torsion bars is a clamp that is smooth on the inside.

viel spass! hammer
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/30/23 12:30 AM

Yes he is correct, up never put a tool to the bar that can scratch it like vise grips or pliers. A scratch can start a crack and that isn't good.

The OEM tool is great but I was too cheap to buy the tool.

My method for removing them is to remove the nuts on the strut bar and LCA pivot and pry the lower control arm back with a pry bar between the front of the LCA and the K frame. To get the LCA off the end of the T Bar if it is stuck I use a rubber mallet on the LCA socket while holding the T bar.

To install the T Bar I use two methods depending on if one doesn't work.

I will hang the LCA with the Strut in place but nuts loose and push the T Bar in from the back. To drive it home I use a rubber mallet and a wood rod like a broom handle to drive the back in.

I have also stuck the front of the T Bar through the rear and installed the LCA on the T bar. Then slid them into place with the same wood rod/rubber mallet to drive it in. That method is a bit harder because you also have to get the strut rod to cooperate as you install it. I can not remember a specific reason I did it that way but I have several times. It works well on the ISO suspension cars where the strut bar bolts to the top of the LCA not through it like the early A, Early B and E bodies.

Tool or no tool always clean out the crud in the T Bar sockets Before removing the bar and grease before installing the bar.
Posted By: CYACOP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/30/23 01:30 AM

I took 2 short 2x4's cut a shallow groove length wise on each with a circular saw and C clamped them together pinching the torsion bar between them and hit the bottom block with a hammer and knocked them right out.
Posted By: TJP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/30/23 01:31 AM

Originally Posted by A12
Originally Posted by TJP
Originally Posted by A12
Say or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual shruggy



it does but in a different area. wink See post above yours beer


Thanks seems I was trying to convert the only shop manual torsion bar info I found to a format I could post and didn't see your post blush. beer back at you.


up I had a bit of trouble finding it myself and putting 2 and 2 together confused. They obviously didn't anticipate us rebuilding the entire front end when they wrote the book beer
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 11/30/23 02:05 AM

Originally Posted by CYACOP
I took 2 short 2x4's cut a shallow groove length wise on each with a circular saw and C clamped them together pinching the torsion bar between them and hit the bottom block with a hammer and knocked them right out.


I like that idea. And in my price range too. up
Posted By: moparx

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/01/23 03:50 PM

what is a good way to install the T-bar balloon seals ?
as i don't install bars very often, i have tried hot water and heat guns before, and i was always very worried about splitting the seals going over the hexes. the hexes were greased to help slide the seals on.
beer
Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/02/23 07:09 PM

I finally got to finish up today. Got the other t-bar in place, just had to move the lca a bit. Thanks to everyone for your advice in the posts above. I am having a problem with getting the t-bar dust boots onto the trans. crossmember though. Does anyone have any suggestions on an easy way to do this? I've tried for over an hour so far just on one of them and I can't get the boot to slip onto the crossmember, I test fit it before the t-bar install and it went on no problem but now with the t-bar there, I can't get it to go on. Probably doesn't help that I used poly boots.
Posted By: TJP

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/03/23 03:44 AM

Originally Posted by 6PAX
I finally got to finish up today. Got the other t-bar in place, just had to move the lca a bit. Thanks to everyone for your advice in the posts above. I am having a problem with getting the t-bar dust boots onto the trans. crossmember though. Does anyone have any suggestions on an easy way to do this? I've tried for over an hour so far just on one of them and I can't get the boot to slip onto the crossmember, I test fit it before the t-bar install and it went on no problem but now with the t-bar there, I can't get it to go on. Probably doesn't help that I used poly boots.


Try getting the inaccessible top portion started and then use a blunt tipped hook to try and stretch / pull the boot the rest of the way on. A little lube may help wink beer
Posted By: moparx

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/03/23 07:06 PM

get an old early 70's guy like me to get you some K-Y at the store. i'll find a 20-ish babe to go with me. biggrin boogie
beer
Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/03/23 07:33 PM

OK, I finally got the boots in place. What a pain in the butt that was. So, I moved on to finishing assembling the front suspension and brakes and have a couple more questions. The later A-body upper control arms I am using I bought several years ago. They already had new ball joints installed in them. I don't know what brand they are however so should I torque the nut that holds it to the spindle to factory specs (100 foot lbs.) or something less? I found an article about some aftermarket ball joints only being torqued to 80 lbs. Not sure which way to go. The ball joints have blue grease boots on them if anyone might have an idea what brand they may be by the color of the boot. Also, the lower ball joints I bought are Moog. There wasn't any paperwork with them indicating what the nuts for them should be torqued to so I would assume factory specs. (85 foot lbs.). Correct?
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/03/23 08:09 PM

Glad you got the Ballon seals on. I was going to suggest you practice on a bannana.. spank

I have never torn one but I only remove them to install new ones. New ones are usually tough enough.
Never tried poly boots though.

80 or 100 is fine. There are lots of new cars that are less than 50. The taper in the hole/stud does most of the work anyway.

I suggest before you put the nut on you take a straight pick and turn the ball stud to point the hole forward to backwards relation to the spindle.
Easier to install and remove the cotter key that way.

I torque them to close to or at the spec and turn the nut to line up the cotter key holes.

Never had a problem. .

Posted By: 6PAX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/03/23 09:24 PM

Thanks for the tip. The ball stud does need to be turned because just as you said, the cotter pin hole is set to have the pin going toward the back of the spindle. As far as the torque on the nuts, I guess I'll just shoot for somewhere between 80 & 100 on the torque because at 80 ft. lbs., which I initially tightened the driver side nut to, the cotter pin hole isn't lined up with the slots in the castle nut.
Posted By: IMGTX

Re: Torsion bar install question - 12/04/23 02:07 PM

You are going to want to rotate the stud before you tighten the nut.
If you already tightened it, the stud is probably "stuck" in the tapered hole.
You will need to pop it loose with a ball joint separator.

Pickle Forks are a no no unless you are going to replace the ball joint. I use this tool but others will loosen the nut a good bit and hit the side of the spindle near the hole. I am a terrible aim with a hammer anx can't get it to work often,, so I use the tool.

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