I will add that using Vise-Grips or such on torsion bars is not advisable as they may leave scratches on the torsion bar which, if deep enough, can turn into cracks. The shop-manual tool for removing torsion bars is a clamp that is smooth on the inside.

viel spass!

Yes he is correct, never put a tool to the bar that can scratch it like vise grips or pliers. A scratch can start a crack and that isn't good.

The OEM tool is great but I was too cheap to buy the tool.

My method for removing them is to remove the nuts on the strut bar and LCA pivot and pry the lower control arm back with a pry bar between the front of the LCA and the K frame. To get the LCA off the end of the T Bar if it is stuck I use a rubber mallet on the LCA socket while holding the T bar.

To install the T Bar I use two methods depending on if one doesn't work.

I will hang the LCA with the Strut in place but nuts loose and push the T Bar in from the back. To drive it home I use a rubber mallet and a wood rod like a broom handle to drive the back in.

I have also stuck the front of the T Bar through the rear and installed the LCA on the T bar. Then slid them into place with the same wood rod/rubber mallet to drive it in. That method is a bit harder because you also have to get the strut rod to cooperate as you install it. I can not remember a specific reason I did it that way but I have several times. It works well on the ISO suspension cars where the strut bar bolts to the top of the LCA not through it like the early A, Early B and E bodies.

Tool or no tool always clean out the crud in the T Bar sockets Before removing the bar and grease before installing the bar.

I took 2 short 2x4's cut a shallow groove length wise on each with a circular saw and C clamped them together pinching the torsion bar between them and hit the bottom block with a hammer and knocked them right out.

I had a bit of trouble finding it myself and putting 2 and 2 together . They obviously didn't anticipate us rebuilding the entire front end when they wrote the book

I like that idea. And in my price range too.

what is a good way to install the T-bar balloon seals ?
as i don't install bars very often, i have tried hot water and heat guns before, and i was always very worried about splitting the seals going over the hexes. the hexes were greased to help slide the seals on.

I finally got to finish up today. Got the other t-bar in place, just had to move the lca a bit. Thanks to everyone for your advice in the posts above. I am having a problem with getting the t-bar dust boots onto the trans. crossmember though. Does anyone have any suggestions on an easy way to do this? I've tried for over an hour so far just on one of them and I can't get the boot to slip onto the crossmember, I test fit it before the t-bar install and it went on no problem but now with the t-bar there, I can't get it to go on. Probably doesn't help that I used poly boots.

Try getting the inaccessible top portion started and then use a blunt tipped hook to try and stretch / pull the boot the rest of the way on. A little lube may help

get an old early 70's guy like me to get you some K-Y at the store. i'll find a 20-ish babe to go with me.

OK, I finally got the boots in place. What a pain in the butt that was. So, I moved on to finishing assembling the front suspension and brakes and have a couple more questions. The later A-body upper control arms I am using I bought several years ago. They already had new ball joints installed in them. I don't know what brand they are however so should I torque the nut that holds it to the spindle to factory specs (100 foot lbs.) or something less? I found an article about some aftermarket ball joints only being torqued to 80 lbs. Not sure which way to go. The ball joints have blue grease boots on them if anyone might have an idea what brand they may be by the color of the boot. Also, the lower ball joints I bought are Moog. There wasn't any paperwork with them indicating what the nuts for them should be torqued to so I would assume factory specs. (85 foot lbs.). Correct?

Glad you got the Ballon seals on. I was going to suggest you practice on a bannana..

I have never torn one but I only remove them to install new ones. New ones are usually tough enough.
Never tried poly boots though.

80 or 100 is fine. There are lots of new cars that are less than 50. The taper in the hole/stud does most of the work anyway.

I suggest before you put the nut on you take a straight pick and turn the ball stud to point the hole forward to backwards relation to the spindle.
Easier to install and remove the cotter key that way.

I torque them to close to or at the spec and turn the nut to line up the cotter key holes.

Never had a problem. .

Thanks for the tip. The ball stud does need to be turned because just as you said, the cotter pin hole is set to have the pin going toward the back of the spindle. As far as the torque on the nuts, I guess I'll just shoot for somewhere between 80 & 100 on the torque because at 80 ft. lbs., which I initially tightened the driver side nut to, the cotter pin hole isn't lined up with the slots in the castle nut.

You are going to want to rotate the stud before you tighten the nut.
If you already tightened it, the stud is probably "stuck" in the tapered hole.
You will need to pop it loose with a ball joint separator.

Pickle Forks are a no no unless you are going to replace the ball joint. I use this tool but others will loosen the nut a good bit and hit the side of the spindle near the hole. I am a terrible aim with a hammer anx can't get it to work often,, so I use the tool.