Hi guys, I wanted to get your opinion by no means do I have any type of a high horsepower car I would say 375 to 400 at most. However, I’m running a 10 5. 28 slick right now just for mock up however, they are good I’ve never taken it to the track with slicks only with drag radios

My question to you is, do I really need wheel screws with that amount a horsepower footbrake 3000stall converter a body

I am running tubes

Thank you guys, Mopar, or no car

Probably not, but if the slicks hook up on the track surface you could spin the tire on the rim.

Better safe than sorry.

Only if you are running tubes.
Doug

???

I say yes with tubes. If the slick spins on wheel, it could /will pull tube and rip off air stem valve. That’s why I run screws.
When I run dragradials, the tires move atleast a couple inches. You can mark them to check. Imagine slicks at the track on sticky surface.

I'd run screws, one less thing to worry about...heck, I was doing that at 460 HP & footbraking a 3,000 lb car.

Thanks guys !!!!!! Have a great Christmas. Hope all your projects get done.

Take some white shoe polish and put a small dab on the edge of the rim and tire, if it moves install the screws
I think I used #10x3/4 inch long course threaded sheet metal type screws with a 6 sided hex head to make it easier to install and remove
I had used regular head screws in the past, Phillips and standard straight cut in the past until I switched
I inflate the tires up above 25 Lb. and use a small drill bit a little smaller than the body of the screw to drill the rims and a short way,(3/5 to max of 5/8 inch) into the tire bead to allow the screws a good start into the beads
IHTHs

If you're running tubes, I'd be using screws.

I ran them for years ... my car has had between 520- 550 hp motors in it a few years ago I switched to drag radials and I now no longer screw the tires to the rims , I checked and the tires aren't moving on the rims plus I didn't want to drill holes in my new rims . I agree though with slicks and tubes they should be screwed to the rims or run a beadlock style wheel .

Use Grade 8 stuff (Moroso or equivalent)

Drill and tap the holes, using an extra screw(s), before installing the tires.

Screws are only good for one or maybe two uses. The tire beads dull the point and they won't want to go in, resulting in pulling the treads out of the wheels.

Apply pressure and run the screws in by hand. Use JB80 or equivalent.

I have wheels that have had a dozen sets of tires on them and the holes are still 100% doing this.

Back in the old days when I screwed my slicks to my wheels I had a small drill bit with black electrical tape on it. The tape was set as a stop so I could drill slightly into the slick so my screws with into the slick and didn’t try pushing the slick away from the wheel. I use high tac now but then again I Dont run tubes.