I bought the 71 NYer from a person I knew and was from my town.

He was an older gentleman who bought the car new and was not one to lie when he said
the engine was as he bought it and ran fine until he had to give up driving because of eyesight problems

The rear baffle as you see does not look like someone cobbled it together, it looks purpose built for that application.

I am of the opinion it is stock.

My 2 cents....Joe

PS the rear baffle is sheet metal, It just looks like a thick piece of steel.
I had to be formed in a die specifically for that part.

that's how i took the rear baffle to be, sheetmetal with the edges bent down for stiffening.
regardless if factory or not, it's an interesting pan for sure.

I should have been clearer that I have not seen a 187 pan with any baffles in them but all of the ones i have bought and used where from pre 1971 cars
I have seen both of those baffles used in later year oil pans on the Cordoba motors, but they weren't 187 stamp pans
This is another good example to never say never when it comes to things car makers have done on production parts
OP, do the spot welds on the rear baffle look exactly like the ones on the pump baffle?

No room to beneath the baffle to get a spotweld tip in there, it is brazed.

Joe

Well, so much for my eyes, after cleaning, I can see the spotwelds too!, but smaller
than the sump welds

The factories quit doing manual welding years ago
Some one added that on to your pan, probably the same thing on the center part

Fast fish one piece rear seal and a billet retainer with the dual side seals per side..

There was an NOS 893 pan for sale on this site, rear baffle brazed in place.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...7/filename/parts%208-24-2020-2%20064.JPG

I think that is a stock RB,B 1967 to 1969 A body oil pan. Not a stock 1966 to 1972 C body oil pan

I am going to start replacing the rear main on the 440 in the Ramcharger, Dan at performance only did the bottom end, and I was about 15 years younder, and didnt assemble it with a rope seal, it leaks BAD!, Im doing this in the truck, thank god its a lifted 4x4, and the pan comes out easily. BUT with that said, Im a one man show, and Im curious if anyone has ever taken the main caps loose and let the crank drop a bit to aid in installing the new seal. Or will that cause a front pump seal issue on the tranny?

I have bought the Lisle sneaky pete tool, and I also plan on swaping the billet rear seal retainer with a OE retainer I have. I am also going to use the Mancini racing 1 piece gasket/windage trey for the oil pan gasket.

Has anyone ever drilled a few drain back holes in the plastic trey? I see they dont really have much of anything for drain back holes.

Kasey

Replacing a two piece seal with another two piece seal? I was able to push out an old two piece seal and push in a new two piece seal without touching the main caps. The Mancini windage tray looks like the same as the Summit one I use unmodified and I haven’t had any issues

Im taking the old Viton seal out that leaks like a sieve, and putting the correct rope seal in place, and have had issues getting them pulled in place.

I see, I’m no help there

I’m pretty sure you’re not going to pull a rope seal around the crank. Rope seal has to be put in the block first then seated with a special saddle tool, then trimmed. Is the crank journal knurled?

How many have used the fast fish one piece seal? I have one leaking and thought about going this route, but id like some reviews on how they have worked out.
Matt

Mine leaked a little on the dyno. Installed as directions said. Threw it away, put in a felpro black seal, staggered parting line about 3/8”, no leaky.

I am a chevy guy so I openly accept rear seal leaks are part of the OEM rust protection package.... my only mopar is a junk 440, max piston to wall forged pistons, 0.030 - 0.035 ring end gap.... after several thousand miles on the street with a single pcv valve...zero rear seal leaks... the fast fish rear main is a f-ing miracle.

I'm curious how a billet rear main seal retainer is different / better than the OE piece.

i use adhesive silicone, not Gasket maker silicone to seal up the seal holder between the block and the seal holder on both sides and smear it in between the seal holder and block on the bottom of the seal holder also. I use a narrow, thin, putty knife to do that
No main seal oil leaks for a long time on many (100+) B and RB, 426 hemi motors since doing that

My 470 is using the Fast Fish rear main seal. So far so good.