for a winter project i picked up an 8 3/4 clutch type sure grip unit off of craigslist. given the unknown origin i wanted to give it a complete rebuild. when i got it apart the clutches and plates had HEAVY galling. However all the other parts looked good. a trip the the parts washer confirmed that there was only very light rust spots on a few places from sitting. so i knocked the rust off with a wire wheel and got a mopar performance clutch kit. now i have begun the rebuild process, making sure that the plates went in in the correct orientation. i saw a tip that said to put an axle in each side to make sure the 2 sets of spline line up for assembly. i did this then hand tightened to 2 halves together and recheck. the axles wouldn't seat fully. so i loosen the case halves and put the axles back in through both splined parts on each side. i stand the whole assembly up-right. i can then lift and lower the sure grip to make sure everything is seated and not binding. i then tighten the case halves together. now both axles are locked solid into the sure grip unit. so now i split the difference. i loosen all the bolts and start tightening in quarter turns each round, making sure the axles move. now they are stuck and the case isn't near closed. i did center punch both halves and they are lined up. anybody have any ideas?

hi g, try to keep each axle shaft "fixed" and wiggle the sure grip in a circle to unbind and center the clutches. think of a kids jump rope. both ends are fixed and you make the rope circle around in the middle. hold one shaft on the ground, step on it with 1 foot. hold the top shaft, and then roll the sure grip in a circle. tighten the case bolts a little, roll the case, repeat until case bolts are tight, but shafts will not bind.ronnie

Smack the side of both axle shafts with a mini sledge hammer. This will shock the side gear splines and clutch hub splines into alignment.

A light hammer will not work.

can a pair of axle "stubs" [from a pair of junk axles] be substituted for the whole axle ? if so, how long should they be for optimum [use] results ?

thanks all for the help. and thank you dr diff for the tip. i had to modify the technique as i dont have a sledge hammer. have a 24 oz. ball peen. i tightened bolts until axles were stuck, then knocked them out with the hammer then reinstert. repeated until bolts were snugged. i also learned my torque wrench doesnt torque lefty threads so i had to use calibrated elbow and blue lock tite. now one axle goes in but there other is giving me trouble. when i assemble the complete axle i will have to use a prybar between the studs and tap with a hammer until it seats. fun times ahead.

Yes, here's a pair I made for testing Sure-Grip clutch slip and they also act to align the splines...about 8 inches long.

Does any one still make the side gears that had the outer gear with the full spline? Stronger and less hassle with assembly. Back in 75 that is what I ran in my Stock Eliminator car until the case spread and broke the gears at Fall Nationals in Seattle the local dealers didn't have anything but the 2 piece. I put them in and found out my Mark Williams axles didn't engage the inner gear enough. It stripped the axle spline, cost me the race. When I got home I built a new sure grip grade 8 bolts all the way through and the long spline outer gear. Never broke another sure grip. ring and pinion was another story.

Doc Diff offers the one-piece side gears.

http://www.doctordiff.com/powr-lok-internal-parts-kit.html

thanks john. that was kind of like what i had in mind, a hex or flat milled on the end[s] for a wrench or socket.

Is it possible the splines on the axles you're us are very slightly twisted? Just a thought.