I went a few 1.13 sixtys this year on my Dana junk. Just a 7 second car

I am not applying ANYTHING to his rear end

just add a little sand to the ben gay...

[quote=astjp2]just add a little sand to the ben gay... [/quote




That’s gonna leave a mark. Ouch.

Finally some words of wisdom.... I feel so silly with a dump truck rear in my lil small block Duster. What was I thinking!!

I think the consensus here is the 8 and four quarters brand nuetral racing differential is the best.

The dump truck differential fit my budget best though

You would think with “mopar logic” (high number being greater than its predecessor), that the 9 would easily be better than the 8.75. Naturally that puts the 60 way ahead! Same reason I removed my 727 for the Mopar logic superior 904!

I can't believe you didn't go full on 999 trans Jay lol

I wish I had the money my Son Matt thinks he has. His plans are to go from an 8 3/4 to a full fabed out ford 9 inch. I wish I could afford one. Two Dana’s and a modified reenforced 9 inch in my junk.

Thanks Chip, you almost got coffee to come out my nose when I read that

Rick Jones gave me a tour of his Pro Stock trailer one time. There must have been 10 chunks lined up in there. I asked him why and he explained why they have to change ratios if the air density changes. Pro Stock is so sensitive. I prefer a class where you just build your car and go race. And have a good time.

Out of respect for the good ole d,d,d,DANA..

Here's a vid from saturday, of my only car that still has a dana 60.

doing the job, with no complaints lol.

https://youtu.be/Rosv2aAKhtk

With all this talk of dana 60's I got worried supplies might run low so I nabbed one off craigslist for $100. My understanding is it came out of a 77 F250. After 2 hrs of hammering the 80lbs of drums are gone and I'm ready to start cutting into this mammoth. I don't know if I'll run it next year but it will be ready. I figure all in it will cost $850 if I reuse my CPP rear discs.

Were is the weakest link in a Dana 60?

I compared the two bearing caps from a 8 3/4 and a Dana 60 that I have, we already know that the cap on a 8 3/4 is a weak link but how hold it up on a Dana 60? It looks little weak to look at?

The hypoid offset of a Dana 60 is 1.125" from the carrier centerline. This means most of the force transferred from the pinion to it's ring gear is mostly up/down, not so much trying to force the carrier out the back. Caps don't have to be that strong.

The book I have doesn't say what the offset is on a 8.75.

The Ford 9" has 2.38" of hypoid offset. That much offset makes the pinion teeth look more like a worm gear, pushing at a much lower point on the ring gear. This translates to more force trying to push the carrier out the back.

Grant

The only thing I've ever done to make them better (all I know) is obviously the shortest flange, to flange width you can work with helps keep it from bending the tubes forward, and putting a Mark Williams cap, or something like it on the left side carrier bearing since that's the one that wants out under load.

I did see one, that was a PS rear, that had a load bolt built into it.


The funny thing is my MW center sections all have 3.812 housing bores like a 60. All my mope setup measurement stuff works in them lol.

I did exactly what the op is looking to do. Broke an 8 3/4 and went to pick and pull on half price Wednesday to get a dana from a late 70s ford truck the next week. Cut the axle tubes on a big band saw. Welded housing ends using homemade fixture. Big ground bar stock and pucks cut on a lathe. Moser axles and strange spool. Worked out ok, but watch out, the axle tubes are different thicknesses. Mine are crazy thick 3/8? And therefore heavy. Having a lathe handy really helps, too. I probably put 700$ in it but a fair amount of time. But it was fun and i learned a lot. It’s still going after 9 years.

Enjoy the project!

Tony

Herb McCandless built my last Dana for me and recommended the MW cap on the left carrier bearing as well, mostly because I intended on using a transbrake in the car. He said that the extra load from the brake turned that bearing from an "if" to a "when" it would break. He said the MW cap on the other side definitely wouldn't hurt, but it also wasn't overly necessary.

Other than that, good axles, a good spool, good Spicer bearings, and a good Pro gear is a recipe for longevity for what most people here are using their cars for.

For sure the quality spool if you're making power. The moser spool chops the shims in two because it has almost no landing shoulder for the shims, and the radius of the bearing corner cuts them. The strange, and the mark williams are the only 2 I've seen with enough.

I get as low as 1.16 60's in a 3400 pound car. Normal is 1.17 to 1.18 depending on track conditions. I had a moser spool, and stock caps, and every 10 runs or so the whole set up would be loose. From the pinion preload to side clearance. After the strange spool, and a williams cap it stays right where I put it, and the pattern doesn't crawl out as bad.

I also think the only gear company that gives a flip about accuracy with 60 pro gears is/was Motive gear. Richmond must make them on a wooden bench, as well as US gear. Just rolling the gear around you get different backlash readings. Motive was dead on at any position. Forget lapping the back of the gear with a stone too, it just gets worse. Motive gears, I'd take out of the box, make a couple passes with a stone, and they'd clean up instantly.

The pro gears bend, and take a set anyway, so I guess it doesn't matter, but it's annoying during set up, playing pick a spot.