Dana 60

Is there any reason why I couldn't cut down a Dana 60 from a Dodge truck to replace my 8.75. I am wanting to us that 8.75 in another A-body and figure if I can get a housing bought cheap I might just start there. What year truck should I look to get one from? What's a good price on a housing?

Talk to Doctor Diff. I think by the time you buy all the parts and pay for the work you might be getting close to the cost of a new S60 housing. All depends if you have the fixture and can do the work yourself or if you know someone who will cut you a deal and do the job correctly. My Duster came with a Dana 60 narrowed by a local guy who ruined it. It was a complete hack job.

If you know someone who can narrow it and weld the housing ends on correctly, you can come out WAYYY cheaper than buying an S60.
Both of our road runners have cut down truck Dana 60s under them. Less than $1k in each one. Bought all the parts from Dr. Diff.

They will most likely come w/ either 4.10 or 3.54 gears and hopefully you'll get the good powerlock diff. Then all you need to do is narrow the housing, weld on pass. car ends and spring perches, and buy axles. Possibly buy a yoke too depending on what it comes with.
One of the ones I bought came w/ a 1350 yoke, 3.54 gear and powerlock diff.

I paid $125 for one and either $150 or $200 for the other if I recall correctly. Both were complete take out units w/ full floating axles, brakes, etc.

That's what we did with my car.

We bought a $65 used rearend out of a mud truck someone was parting out. Had welded spiders but didn't care. We cut the ends off an 8 3/4, chucked them in farmboy's lathe to turn them down, swapped a friend my 4.10's for his 3.54's and bought axles and spool from Dr. Diff.

I took it to a local race shop that charged me $400 to check bearings, install the 3.54 ring and pinion and weld on the ends. We reused the 11" drum brake setup that I had on the 8 3/4.

It has held up great and seen many passes and lots of street miles. Less than $1k total in it.

Hey an8sec70cuda or GY3,

By chance know what trucks they came out of?

We cut both ours down from truck stuff. Dizusters Turbo car is still running the junkyard 3.54 gears.
Doug

I think the guy said it was an '86 Dodge but who knows if that's what it came with!

One came from a smaller late '70s dodge motorhome so I was told. The other came from a mid '70s Ford 3/4 ton truck.

Dana Corp made several different Dana 60 size axle tubes and housings for trucks and cars.
The most common size axle tube diameter in 3/4 ton pickup is either 3.0, 3 1/8 or 3 1/4 inch (found on Dana 60 HD housings) diameter. I have a Dana 60-2 housing that was in a 4x4 front end that has 2.5 inch O.D. axle tubes
All of the car axle housings made for Mopar I've seen or heard of are 3.0 inch O.D..
I have had several 3/4 ton and 1 ton truck housings cut down to use in my own cars that where 3 1/8 inch O.D axle tubes that worked out fine with stock type leaf spring perches
My message is look for one of the 3/4 ton with the 3.0 inch diameter axle tubes in them first if you want to narrow and bolt them in for a stock type use
I use the Moser 8 3/4 axle bearings ends from Summit for all the Dana 60 housings I have cut down

Yes, the smaller axle tubes will make it easier to use the 8 3/4 shock plates and u-bolts. Mine had the 3.25" tubes and took some convincing to get the u-bolts on.

While we're talking about truck rears, has anyone tried a Dana 70, or a Sterling 10.25"? Lots of them around with 4.10 gears...

If I were starting with a clean sheet of paper I would do a 9" with NO FACTORY FORD PARTS and you would be further ahead
One of these years I'm going to pull the Dana out an put a 9" back under my Savoy. Much easier to work on and change gears
Gus

Would have to agree with fourgearsavoy. If you are looking for a strong rear end with lots of center section options and it does not have to be a mopar rearend there are tons of 9 inch rear ends to cut down out there to meet what you need or ones that are close to what a stock Chrysler length is.

Setting up gears is basically all the same no matter which axle. If you set up 2 sets of gears when you do a Dana the first time, the time to swap is nearly identical to swapping a Ford center section. Though much cheaper (gear set, bearings, spool vs an entire center section). Don't get me wrong the 9" has its place, as does a turbo 400. But for most of the stuff we race, not needed. Heck my 9.0/3350 lb car made 425 passes on a Motive street gear, The Chinese gear was not so good. I would recommend Motive or original Dana/Spicer. This time I'll move up to a pro gear. The stock 9" stuff is 8 3/4 strength at best. Price the good 9"stuff vs junkyard Dana. I don't care care who built the original design. I'm about function vs cost. Dana pro gear, Strange lightweight spool, Strange axles, yoke, housing ends, bearings under $1200. Granted no labor. The Strange pro iron 9" case with pro gear is $1450. That doesn't include axles, axle bearings, studs, or housing ends. Not to mention a junkyard 9" housing is a turd where the junkyard Dana housing will take 1000 Hp easy. Tell me again why a 9" is a better choice. Ya if your at 1500+ then yes spend the cash. But how many of us are there? Not me.
Doug

I bought a Dana 70 that came out of John Deanna old modified production/ G/Gas Duster to use in my 1963 Plymouth Belvedere bracket car, it had a set of Pro 6.87 gears in it and I ended up using a set of OEM Dana 5.13 gears in it for my car
That turd was heavy though
Think twice on using one before acting

I priced out a new 9". by the time I was done, I was looking at more than 3K before shipping. Just had a 60 done, cut to size,spool, gears,axles and green bearings shipped for 1600.00

I had dutchman narrow my 60, then I put a 70 ring and pinion in it....for about $1K, it was 185 to narrow and 500 for shafts, the rest of the parts were $300ish

I went thru all this when putting my Charger together. It was no contest when it came to price.

Picked up TWO truck Dana 4.10 geared diffs for 200 clam$. I cut em down, added full floating hubs/spindles, discs/calipers, bearings/seals. Strange yoke, 5/8" studs, main cap studs, a Detroit Locker, new gears and CM 35 spline floater axles - It cost me a tad less than half of what it would have cost to build a similarly equipped 9" over here.

Like a lot of things, there IS a substantial price hike on 9" parts simply because of how popular the rear end is.

Nothing wrong with the 9" but in my application it will be fine and the Dana will take anything I can throw at it and come back for more

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A 9" is not going in my car, if I don't do a Dana 60 I will keep the 8 3/4. I'm not cross breeding my cars.

You do realize that Mopar didn't make the Dana rear end and it was available to ALL car makes. LMAO.

Dana Corporation.

http://www.dana.com/

a dana 60 is just a 3/4 ton "cornbinder" rear, ya know ....

I hear they were made in a lean-to right behind Chrysler Corp by 3 Amish guys and a MOPAR engineer.

FWIW check out Gail Banks ( yea the turbo guy) he did an extensive testing on aftermarket aluminum housing backs--they all kept oil off where it needed to be etc and were awful compared to stock covers that direct oil exactly where it needs to be VERY interesting--On Youtube somewhere or easier to find on Bangshift.com
Very extensive testing--amazing results--MUCH to learn from there

Home built Dana in my turbo car.

64 -72 F100 pickups had a Dana 60 when ordered with a heavy duty locking diff. 5 on 5 1/2 non floating axles. I had 5 of these at one time, they brought good money from the off road guys. Dodge also had the Danas under half tons with the 5 on 4 1/2 axles, but they seem scarce.

While Gale's testing was impressive and interesting I am not sure how much it applies to drag racing where we only load these things down for a few seconds.

Dana 60 for my A body.

Mine is an original 3.54 1968 B Body piece, however I actually got it from a Camaro. Needed some work like ladder bar brackets cut off, a going through and a gear change. Had 4.88s in it when I got it, a little too much for me. Dr Diff helped a bunch with all the parts. Chevy parts are usually reasonably priced so that worked out pretty well.

8.75, D60, 9 inch - they all have their specific place and applications where they are the best choice. I would have no problem using any of them, in the application where they would work best. Big difference between a nice weekend driver, a fast, light weight, tube chassis car and everything in between.

I could not agree more, you are not alone on this!

Anyone know for certain what Dana came in a 1976 Dodge Van cab/chassis used for motor homes?

360 engine, about 20-22 foot long tandem wheel unit.

good probability of a dana 70 those were used in a lot of C@C's ambulances and motor homes, there should be a cast in number somewhere on the center section designating if it is a 60 or 70.

I'd say if it's a dually, it's gonna be a Dana 70.

It depends on the motor home company and what they ordered their chassis with
I bought a burnt out, burnt down to the floors, Class C 24 Ft. Dodge (1976 or 1978 model year)360 with a 727 tranny motor home chassis years ago to get the dually rear end to use in one of my old car hauler, it was a Dana 60 HD with 4.10 gears and 30 spline axles. I broke, twisted it off on the housing, the left axle is the only reason I know it had 30 spline axles in it
That happened while racing my bracket car, not the truck at the Division 7 bracket finals in the late 1980s, one of the other racers welded it back together for me on the back of his open car trailer at the track and I drove it that way for three or four more years until I sold it
That was a 1957 Dodge one ton 4 speed truck tranny and chassis converted into a car hauler, the frames on the early Dodge trucks where several inches wider than either Ford, Chevy or I.H. chassis so that motor home chassis rear end ended up being a answer to my prayers, the width and leaf spring perches where exactly dead nuts to fit that old wide truck chassis The original rear end was shot, 4.89 ratio and sung to me all the way to the races and back
The 4.10 ratio was the cats meow It had little bitty short 7.00 x 16.5, I think that was the size, tires on the rear. Nothing taller would fit without extensive chassis mods

Yep, and this statement "available to ALL car makes" allows me to use it and not feel bad about it. Also it isn't the Ford 60 or the Chevy 60 so...

So with your thinking my powerglide isn’t GM either. ATI case, ATI bellhousing, TCI gear set, TCI valve body, clutches and band I bought from an Ohio vendor. Thanks, I will sleep
Better tonight. Lol

Ohhhh and my shortened Dana has aftermarket gears, spool, axles, brakes, bearings, seals, yoke, and gears.

people wonder why these company's don't come out with any new parts for mopars. because it didn't come stock on their 50 year old car.

To whom it may concern,


I don't care what you put in your car. I hope you can just answer questions I have and move on. Also unless you're going to fund my build I don't care that you would use a 9" Ford over a Dana, or a Glide over a 727. Have a great day.

Wow!!!! Somebody needs a Snickers Bar. 😂

My favorite place to look is '70s F250s. They are everywhere, and they all had a Dana 60.

Be careful when you buy because the Dana 61 is out there in quantity and some of them look pretty good with semi floating hubs (car style). Mostly they come under vans, but they are built for low numerical gears and more of a hassle to regear. The Dana 60 HD has extra beef in the case and is too heavy for a street car, IMHO.

R.

Good answer.
How about an 8-3/4"?

I hear the 7 1/4 rearends are lighter and cheaper

I had a 7-1/4 under my first 383 4-speed Valiant for a few weeks. But I also left the stock skinny tires on. Lots of "sound and fury, signifying nothing". 2.76 gears were fun though, I could run 1st up to 65 mph

Would have been interesting to see how long it lasted Anyway I soon got a good 8-3/4 sure-grip and a pair of Centerlines with 235/60 tires. Still hard to hook up even with 3.23 gears, so it never broke.

a stock 8.75 is stronger than a stock 9 inch-------and a venerable dana 44 is stronger than a 9 inch-------that said if you go the dana 44 route there is much aftermarket support for it as a 9 inch---and if you are looking at a narrow axle for a back halfed car you can find an easy axle under a 68? jeep wagoneer---the center section is offset so you have a short axle side and a long side you can cut down to size........

What years/applications used the powerlock? I haven't been able to figure that one out

i would say the 60,s and early 70,s trucks had the power lock dana 60's----a friend of mine had a 68? date code 8.75 powerlock for sale a while back---couldnt get any takers----might still be laying around....

X2 minus the 8-3/4 part

NAPA has U bolts for the 3.25" axle tubes and they fit right through a factory Mopar shock plate w/ no grinding.

I prefer the side adjusters on the S60 over the shims of a D60.... and the 8.75+.25 is a great direction to go.

Shhhhhh unless you are going to buy it for him he wants to do it his way. With a non Mopar Dana Corporation rearend.

Make sure not to pick up one that is the heavy duty like I did,
It has two ribs by the cover. Way too heavy

If you want cheap look at the 9 1/4 rears.
Don't know what you plan on using it for but around here they are dirt cheap.
Don't know why they haven't taken off in the aftermarket?
As for the Dana 9 inch debate it's been done to death.

I think the crush sleeve and taper axle housing and gear selection has made them not popular

Srt-10 Ram came with Dana 60, with lsd and discs. The other rear end that might be useful, is the dana 44 from the back of wk1 jeep.

No way I'd use a Dana 44. 8.5" ring gear.
Doug

The Jeep dana 44 hd has an 8.9" ring gear, and the pinion shaft is same size as Dana 60.

Dana 44? Some of you really like beating your heads against the wall.

When I big blocked my w-150, I never once broke the 44 in 4wd, but busted the 9.25" more times than I can remember.

Boy, this thread has gone all over the place. We all have our own personal preference. I believe a Dana belongs under a Mopar. I like the OP's idea. Find a truck Dana and put it together for his car. I want one of those magnesium Dana 60's like Ramchargers used to sell. If I can't find one of those, I want one of these. I know it's a 9" and I hate those but it's pretty and I can't resist that.

I put this aluminum Dana 60 in a friend's 71 Cuda a few years ago.

Who makes the aluminum case Dana 60?

That is probably one of those rare Mag case Dana 60 with the aluminum rear cover
Don Garlits had one of those in the back of one of his early(1975 maybe) black Dodge single wheel four door pickups at the Winternationals that year, I made a comment about that I would like to have one like that He no you don't , it is broken
Mopar had a batch of them made and gave them to a lot of their sponsored racers and then no more where made after that so it was probably due to the case not holding up in drag cars
Rickseeman, how much is one of those pretty racing rear ends like that one now ? Is that a Mark Williams racing rear end?
How about the racing 12 inch rear ends like that?
My new car has a cut down pickup 3/4 ton Dana 60 in it, hopefully it will hold up to what I throw at it

That billet 9" housing is sold by Tim McAmis for $9,000.

Strange and Chrisman make the 12" rears. But I don't think they have ratios that we could use.

And yes, Bigs used the mag Dana 60 rears. Bigs was super weight conscious.

The one that RUNCHARGER posted is a piece that Lee posted about a few years ago. I'm not sure it's from Australia or another offshore deal but it's a Dana style center with tubes that slide in and have like eight bolts holding them in.
Not the same style as the Ramchargers unit.
Gus

The Obvious,

Nothing looks as good as a dana under a street mope, period, end of story.


For a race car,,,,if you already have one, and you're a bracket racer, sure why not. tough, tough, tough, rear end. Starting from scratch,,,ehhh, a 9 makes so much more sense.

Reality is however, there are no fast cars on a dana.

All true. I would use a 60 in the right application. But on a fast car, big tire, narrow 4 link C-C, need for heavy duty, light weight aftermarket parts and gear ratio options, it's really not an option. There is so much stuff to be attached to the housing in a limited space, the one piece steel housing is almost a necessity.

Why not do that special pumpkin that fits a dana 60 gear set that fits into a 9" housing?

But I put dana 70 gears into a 60 housing...

To be real true fast cars don't have a 9" ford rear end. They have a drop out center section race axle.

Theres a twelve bolt Chevy center for a 9" Ford housing.

The 12 bolt design is a bit more efficient than the 9". Guys who use that are typically lightweight, not tons of power and willing to do whatever it takes for the last bit of performance. Think Comp.

Anybody ever seen a definitive/scientific test of rear end drag? Never heard of one. There was a magazine that did some tests, but as unscientific as it comes.

In fact, that took so much effort I am astounded that they did it when it all could have been done on a bench.

As such, this power robbing 9 inch story carries on and on, and will never end.


I find it amusing.

There have been tests & comparisons, but I don't have a link. The differences aren't a lot, but they are there. Most has to do with the pinion position relative to the ring gear. The closer to center the pinion is, the less contact surface the teeth have, thus less friction. Ford 9" also has an extra pinion bearing, I believe. The order I remember is : 12 bolt, Dana 60, 8 3/4, Ford 9". I don't recall any other rears, but the 10 bolt would probably be pretty efficient, if you didn't have a lot of torque/HP/weight.

I believe Jim Kinnet had a 12 bolt in his SS/AA cuda and a fast Stock class racer had a 8 1/4" rear in his car till durability issues and lack of ratios encouraged him to change to a Dana 60. This is also partially why many haven't seen a performance loss going from a 8 3/4 to a Dana 60. It may be bigger & heavier, similarly optioned, but the Dana is more efficient, especially if you take the weight difference out from elsewhere in the car.

It may have been Mark Williams who makes/made a 9" Ford center with 12 bolt innards!

There have been tests. The HP loss (or gain) is found in the gear ratio.

The lower the gear, the better the Dana is. Once you get lower than 4.88 the Dana gets better. IIRC, way back in the day the break even point was 4.10ish with anything taller than 4.10 and the 9 inch was better.


As for weigh, I've seen it published, but who did the test I don't recall. There wasn't 10 pounds difference between any of the rear axles when you build them to be raced with.

Put a rear on a bench, put a "load cell" on the pinion. Measure bearing preload and subtract that from end result.

Put a 3 foot bar (length not really a factor), and a weight on end of bar fasten to axle. Measure effort from 6 to 11 O'clock at cell. Graph it.

Repeat for all rears.

Would you use a "9" if you found it to be within .05% of other rears? How about 1%? What if its within .005%?

I know 3 people personally that traveled long distances to race, only to loose a Dana in time trials. About then they probably would have given 5% up just to race.


Can we talk a magazine into doing this kind of test? I know this all off topic, but somewhat relative anyway.

All parts fail. I've seen my share of 9's fail. 99.9999% of the time is user inflicted. So saying not to use an axle because someone drove somewhere and broke something is silly at best.



Why would anyone want (or even care what any magazine says) a magazine to do a test of anything? I've been reading car, dirt bike, gun and other magazines since I could read. I've never seen a single test I could conclude was done correct. Not one.

Those magazines exist to sell advertising. Period. The LAST entity I want testing anything is a magazine. That includes video magazines that are just as bad.

Only on Moparts can a rearend discussion turn into a lab experiment. Lol 😂

Well, ha ha, all correct above. Yeah, parts fail. Its just that I have yet to see an after market 9" fail. Stock, yeah.

Years ago when I was setting up my first aftermarket 9" I went to San Diego Gear and Axle to get a bearing. In talking with the owner, he said "I've got one of those in my Funny car, been there forever without problems."

Made me feel good about the money I had spent.

Carry on, good luck to all, no matter what kind of rear you like.

Anything can fail, if you break a 60, go to a 70.....bearing sizes are the same, just a larger ring gear...pinion offset is the same as a 60 too.

Look under every PS car and tell us what you find. I've haven't seen a dana under one since the late 70's,but maybe they're missing the boat

I think it's like a lot of things in racing. Back when the parts were stock based the Dana 60 reigned king but with aftermarket parts whatever is popular get's modified until it works.

You won't find a ford 9 inch either. LOL

We're all going about it wrong. An 8.75 is the best rear ever. It's just that no one ever sets them up correctly.

Maybe ---- IDK.

I will say look under Dave Dudeks car running in the F.A.S.T class and that's what he runs. He had a Dana under it when purchased but sold it and went to the 8 3/4.


I run a Dana 60 running low 9's at 3450 lbs with no issues.

There are always priorities. Is durability more important, like a Dana 60, or the ability to fine-tune gear ratios for varying car weights for different classes and/or changing weather conditions and/or altitude with removable center sections?

EXACTLY. The 9 won that war decades ago because the guys who actually change axle ratios (and transmission ratios are changed nearly every run) like Pro Stock and Comp needed gear ratios that were every close in ratio. No one wanted to change D60 gears between rounds, so the 9 got the nod.

I don't remember the year but Pro Stock was squealing for a 4.00 ratio. They finally got it, and IIRC, after a year or two, that ratio became obsolete.

The average racer who tells me he changes his axle ratio at the track to tune for conditions is either a rare bird, or he's a liar. It just isn't done.

I will say I worked with a die hard braket race with a pocket full of money who kept several gear boxes in the trailer, all with different low gear sets. He would change a transmission to get the car better on the starting line if he thought he needed it. Then someone pointed out to him that the 2 step could be altered to almost the same affect.

I don't care what kind of piece of junk you get an old housing out of at the junk yard. It can't be made as strong or as useful as this one. Now, you may not need a unit like this, but the technology and aftermarket support trickles down even to bracket cars. Some folks will take advantage of it. Some will insist on being nostalgic. Nothing wrong with either one and nothing wrong with a 60 in an old Mopar.

I think that was the point Pittsburghracer was making.

What is called a 9 inch Ford today has zero in common with a 9 inch Ford, except the dimensions.

The lowly 8.75 and the D60 have some aftermarket pieces, it's nothing compared to what the aftermarket made up for the 9.

I've seen well tuned low 8 second stick cars run on almost stock D60's and not fail if you did maintainence on them.

Take a peek at these choices.


https://quartermax.com/driveline-axles-brakes/ring-pinion-gears/

8.75" it is. None of these point for or against the 60 and 9 are better or worse for my setup. I don't run at tracks with different altitudes, I don't need 15 different gear sets. So I'm gonna narrow what I have and move on to other projects.

I still say they're 9's. Because you can pull a center out of an old ford and bolt it into the best housing out there. Sure you need axles,but you need them for anything.

Ratio changes aren't bad on a 60 if you keep the whole setup together. I have all my 60 gear sets where they're just pull out one and bolt in another. Ultimately cheaper than swapping entire 9 centers. Almost as fast as the 9 too, but not quite. A gear set, a spool, a setup kit with bearings, and done, no case to buy. Bout a grand cheaper per ratio

My next build I’m going all out and making it as lite as possible. Starting with a 7 1/4 rearend and upgrading it with unobtainium 4 bolt 3/8 aluminum stud axles. I’m going to flycut the ring and pinion thinkness and make up the thickness difference with Old Milwaukee beer cans. I’m going to save more weight and drag by leaving the rear cover off so I can spray the ring and pinion down with Pam cooking spray before each pass. Looking for some new bests in 2019

Stir that pot until it boils

can i watch ?

Only if you bring the beer and the Ben-Gay. And YOU have to apply the Ben-Gay.

ok on the beer, but i don't have any ben-gay. however, i DO have some chapstick .........

Don't stop there. Take the seats out, and sit over the rear end like a sling shot dragster lol.

Lol. Let’s not spill all the beans in one post. I got some top secret ideas brewing. I did get a great deal on some ghost carpet. It’s so lite it’s invisible

I went a few 1.13 sixtys this year on my Dana junk. Just a 7 second car

I am not applying ANYTHING to his rear end

just add a little sand to the ben gay...

[quote=astjp2]just add a little sand to the ben gay... [/quote




That’s gonna leave a mark. Ouch.

Finally some words of wisdom.... I feel so silly with a dump truck rear in my lil small block Duster. What was I thinking!!

I think the consensus here is the 8 and four quarters brand nuetral racing differential is the best.

The dump truck differential fit my budget best though

You would think with “mopar logic” (high number being greater than its predecessor), that the 9 would easily be better than the 8.75. Naturally that puts the 60 way ahead! Same reason I removed my 727 for the Mopar logic superior 904!

I can't believe you didn't go full on 999 trans Jay lol

I wish I had the money my Son Matt thinks he has. His plans are to go from an 8 3/4 to a full fabed out ford 9 inch. I wish I could afford one. Two Dana’s and a modified reenforced 9 inch in my junk.

Thanks Chip, you almost got coffee to come out my nose when I read that

Rick Jones gave me a tour of his Pro Stock trailer one time. There must have been 10 chunks lined up in there. I asked him why and he explained why they have to change ratios if the air density changes. Pro Stock is so sensitive. I prefer a class where you just build your car and go race. And have a good time.

Out of respect for the good ole d,d,d,DANA..

Here's a vid from saturday, of my only car that still has a dana 60.

doing the job, with no complaints lol.

https://youtu.be/Rosv2aAKhtk

With all this talk of dana 60's I got worried supplies might run low so I nabbed one off craigslist for $100. My understanding is it came out of a 77 F250. After 2 hrs of hammering the 80lbs of drums are gone and I'm ready to start cutting into this mammoth. I don't know if I'll run it next year but it will be ready. I figure all in it will cost $850 if I reuse my CPP rear discs.

Were is the weakest link in a Dana 60?

I compared the two bearing caps from a 8 3/4 and a Dana 60 that I have, we already know that the cap on a 8 3/4 is a weak link but how hold it up on a Dana 60? It looks little weak to look at?

The hypoid offset of a Dana 60 is 1.125" from the carrier centerline. This means most of the force transferred from the pinion to it's ring gear is mostly up/down, not so much trying to force the carrier out the back. Caps don't have to be that strong.

The book I have doesn't say what the offset is on a 8.75.

The Ford 9" has 2.38" of hypoid offset. That much offset makes the pinion teeth look more like a worm gear, pushing at a much lower point on the ring gear. This translates to more force trying to push the carrier out the back.

Grant

The only thing I've ever done to make them better (all I know) is obviously the shortest flange, to flange width you can work with helps keep it from bending the tubes forward, and putting a Mark Williams cap, or something like it on the left side carrier bearing since that's the one that wants out under load.

I did see one, that was a PS rear, that had a load bolt built into it.


The funny thing is my MW center sections all have 3.812 housing bores like a 60. All my mope setup measurement stuff works in them lol.

I did exactly what the op is looking to do. Broke an 8 3/4 and went to pick and pull on half price Wednesday to get a dana from a late 70s ford truck the next week. Cut the axle tubes on a big band saw. Welded housing ends using homemade fixture. Big ground bar stock and pucks cut on a lathe. Moser axles and strange spool. Worked out ok, but watch out, the axle tubes are different thicknesses. Mine are crazy thick 3/8? And therefore heavy. Having a lathe handy really helps, too. I probably put 700$ in it but a fair amount of time. But it was fun and i learned a lot. It’s still going after 9 years.

Enjoy the project!

Tony

Herb McCandless built my last Dana for me and recommended the MW cap on the left carrier bearing as well, mostly because I intended on using a transbrake in the car. He said that the extra load from the brake turned that bearing from an "if" to a "when" it would break. He said the MW cap on the other side definitely wouldn't hurt, but it also wasn't overly necessary.

Other than that, good axles, a good spool, good Spicer bearings, and a good Pro gear is a recipe for longevity for what most people here are using their cars for.

For sure the quality spool if you're making power. The moser spool chops the shims in two because it has almost no landing shoulder for the shims, and the radius of the bearing corner cuts them. The strange, and the mark williams are the only 2 I've seen with enough.

I get as low as 1.16 60's in a 3400 pound car. Normal is 1.17 to 1.18 depending on track conditions. I had a moser spool, and stock caps, and every 10 runs or so the whole set up would be loose. From the pinion preload to side clearance. After the strange spool, and a williams cap it stays right where I put it, and the pattern doesn't crawl out as bad.

I also think the only gear company that gives a flip about accuracy with 60 pro gears is/was Motive gear. Richmond must make them on a wooden bench, as well as US gear. Just rolling the gear around you get different backlash readings. Motive was dead on at any position. Forget lapping the back of the gear with a stone too, it just gets worse. Motive gears, I'd take out of the box, make a couple passes with a stone, and they'd clean up instantly.

The pro gears bend, and take a set anyway, so I guess it doesn't matter, but it's annoying during set up, playing pick a spot.