You also will get a lot more need for good traction and unbreakable drive train parts Trust me on this, been there, done that

I have raced my old pump gas Duster on all three types of high traction tires, M/T ET Streets, M/T ET Street Radials and M/T 10.5x31x15W slicks.
On your deal I would NOT try radials with the stick shift in the car
The reason being is once the radials start to spin, if you let the clutch out quickly, they won't recover or catch until you let off
On your deal with the clutch it will be worst than with my old car with a high stall (5200 RPM) 8 inch race converter That car ran 10.00 at 134.+ MPH through the complete three inch exhaust system
The bias ply tires will work a lot better on a stick shift car than any drag radial I have heard of so far, you can bog the motor by finding the RPM needed to let the clutch out without spinning them

Just like the OLD days.. change over to the slicks
once you get to the track then change back when
your done.. back then we had the tool box and the
slicks

That's what I was thinking, but where would I put them? They definitely wouldn't fit in the trunk lol.

Slicks in the back seat and the tool box in the trunk

with the tow hubs on the rear, and the tow bar hooked up to the tabs welded to the bumper brackets. floor jack in the trunk of the tow vehicle.

That's what I was thinking, but where would I put them? They definitely wouldn't fit in the trunk lol.

I'm just wondering how many more new threads this guy is gonna start before someone finally gives in and tells him his little cam and performer intake will make 550 hp so he's happy?

You could get yourself some Hoosier Quicktime Pro D.O.T. bias ply slicks and you don't want to change tires at the track. That's what I used to use before I switched to drag radials.

IMHO you are overthinking the operating range of the cam/worrying about how much you will have to slip the clutch to get going. You need to keep in mind how much torque even a stock 440 has.

Do you have a particular ET you are wanting to run at the strip? That's probably why people are asking how you came up with your 550 hp goal.

A stock stroke 440 with almost any of the available stock iron cylinder heads with a mild performance hydraulic cam can get a B-Body into the mid 12s. A true mid 12 second 400+ hp old car is enough to be scary on the street and fun at the track.

I see a lot of Mopars at cruise nights and local shows with stroker crankshafts and aluminum heads that on paper should be good for 600-700 hp that I never ever see running at our local 1/8 mile track.

Listen to what Brad just told you: he knows his $#1+.

In no particular order:
1. Get spare wheels that you can run just for driving to the track & back. Put on a good DOT-legal bias-ply drag tire like the Hoosier QT Pros that someone else mentioned (I've ran them in the past, too). Throw a can or two of Flat-Fix into the trunk in case something happens and you need to limp it home. And buy a good low-PSI tire gauge 'cuz the pressure you'll want driving TO the track is about twice what you'll probably want to run ON the track.

2. With respect to: "All i wanted to know was if a bigger cam would require more throttle from a stop and if it would even be significant. Apparently thats too much for anyone to answer lol.", it's not a question with a Yes or No answer. Your driving style can have as much to do with how you move from a dead stop w/ a stick car as the car itself. The way the engine is tuned can, as well. A small cam with a tune that doesn't run clean under 2000 RPM is going to be more difficult to drive around than a big cam that's tuned to run clean from down low. It sounds like it'll have enough torque that the big question is: "How long will your clutch and/or tires last?" Like I said, it's really not a Yes/No type of question.

3. If you're not experienced at the drag strip... and you're going to be driving a stick car w/ questionable traction... then you need to be prepared for... disappointing ET slips. The car may have the HP to run 11s, but everything else may conspire against you; it might be tough to make a clean pass that even starts with 12.xx. Especially with a stick car, there is simply no short cut for experience gained from track time.

4. In various states of tune (build combinations, etc.), my 440 street car has run 13.8s, 13.2s, 12.5s, 12.2s, 11.7s, 11.2s, 11.0s and 10.5s. At some point that I can't pin down, it probably stopped being viable as a daily driver and turned into a weekend warrior. Building something basic, reliable and doesn't require you to f**k with it on a regular basis can go a long way to offset not having a quicker ET. My car has also spent extended periods of time in various stages of disassembly where the fun of owning and driving it was long forgotten. And then it just gets frustrating... Better to not shoot for the moon and have something you can actually drive and enjoy, rather than something that turns into a never-ending project.

5. BTW, I had to think quite a bit before I decided to reply any more to one of your threads. A couple of days ago IMO you went off on a petulant, self-important, tirade that made me wish I was a moderator who could have cut your cord right then and there. Someone else mentioned your resource pool on here would start to dry up pretty quickly if you didn't manage to chill out, etc. I'll guess it's already quite a bit more shallow than when you made your first post. Not sure what else to say on that topic.

Good luck with your project.

Quote from Nick And i really dont see how responding to rude people is petulen or self important, i dont see how i needed to chill out when i got unnecessarily rude comments to basic questions.

Thats the problem, YOU dont see.