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I painted my car with Rustoleum 'gloss white' in March...althought I repainted the car, the door jambs and inner fenders still have the Rustoleum paint. The funny thing is, it is now canvas/egg shell color. Elements?? the thing hasn't been out of the garage!! I wouldn't recommend this stuff to my worst enemy...

Also remember, if you paint with Rustoleum you can forget about ever using 'real' auto paint without stripping this junk completely off because it will not sand...stuff peels like latex after almost six months drying time...Chuck

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that's wierd, chuck, i can honestly say i've had nothing but the best results with tremclad, there must have been something either wrong with the paint or the prep, sorry to hear that, but the tremclad at least would absoultly never, ever peel or have adhesion issues, it's the exact opposite from my expirence.

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What happened to Ausie Driver's car is what scares me about using the rusto paint. Whan I saw that I was sad for you man that stinks. Maybe the brightside paint which is made for using on pleasure boats and surfaces that are always soaking wet might deal with this water issue better. It almost seems to me that a clear coat would be the thing to keep the paint from going dull or changing a color shade all together say from (black to grey) or (red to pinkish) when getting rained on. Like I said maybe the brightside is the way to go I don't know. I have seen this paint have color fade once before. When my dad painted his 14 foot jon boat with (satin)forest green rusto. paint. It rained and the water sat on the boat in spots say overnight and it turned a lighter green where the puddles layed. So maybe a test is in order for me to try rusto with clear coat , brightside with no clear on some sheetmetal. Let them withstand the elements for a while and see which one comes out on top before I tackle my whole car. So when the paint job is all said and done I can rest at night. Knowing if my car sat in the sun for the day or got wet from the rain I won't have wasted my time and can get a couple years out of this paint job. Like I've said before I think this idea is just great. I just want it to work for me 110% like it did for 69charger. Heck maybe he can just paint (roller) my ride for me for say $5,000!!!!!! OUCH so much for "paint job on a budget" cheers fellas (have fun on your projects I know I am.)JAY

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I think the the car you are reffering to is the black miata that Ausie Driver did? If so, he did not use Rustolean paint from what I recall reading from the many posts. He used some other paint that was available locally to him at the time. It wasn't rusto. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

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Also Chuck,if it peels like latex after 6 months then you have a surface prep issue at the very least.

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Marq could you point me in the right direction to the pads you used with what wax.. I've never polished a car before. I read the link you posted and decided and bought a porter cable 7424.

Forgive me for sounding like I havn't done research. I looked around a bit and every site I saw was trying to sell me a different pad and they all had different names for them.

Which pad did you use to apply the compounding and for the wax. Is that all you did?

So after my last coat is wetsanded to 2000ish I just compound the car and then wax?

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What happened to Ausie Driver's car is what scares me about using the rusto paint. Whan I saw that I was sad for you man that stinks. Maybe the brightside paint which is made for using on pleasure boats and surfaces that are always soaking wet might deal with this water issue better. It almost seems to me that a clear coat would be the thing to keep the paint from going dull or changing a color shade all together say from (black to grey) or (red to pinkish) when getting rained on. Like I said maybe the brightside is the way to go I don't know. I have seen this paint have color fade once before. When my dad painted his 14 foot jon boat with (satin)forest green rusto. paint. It rained and the water sat on the boat in spots say overnight and it turned a lighter green where the puddles layed. So maybe a test is in order for me to try rusto with clear coat , brightside with no clear on some sheetmetal. Let them withstand the elements for a while and see which one comes out on top before I tackle my whole car. So when the paint job is all said and done I can rest at night. Knowing if my car sat in the sun for the day or got wet from the rain I won't have wasted my time and can get a couple years out of this paint job. Like I've said before I think this idea is just great. I just want it to work for me 110% like it did for 69charger. Heck maybe he can just paint (roller) my ride for me for say $5,000!!!!!! OUCH so much for "paint job on a budget" cheers fellas (have fun on your projects I know I am.)JAY

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Wow dude...guess you better stay away from PPG Bright Blue Poly. Yeah those spray on paints are scary. I did my engine compartment in the driveway. A rain storm blew in about two hours later and the next day I had milky white spots where the rain had beaded up. If only it had been rusto paint...I could have blamed it on that.

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Welcome back Chuck It is good to have someone cautioning others, however the technique is evolving and there are already people who have posted good success stories with pics to back them up. I would think that if something did go wrong after a few months or weeks, they wouldn't mind coming back and updating us, saving us all from this most horrendous practice of painting cars with rustoleum.

(... removed text...)

As horribly as Rustoleum messed up your car, do you have any pics of it to share? Or pics of these yellowing door jambs?

Also, you keep saying that you can't put regular car paint over rustoleum, but 69charger has said that he has first hand experience painting over it (OK, Tremclad) with no problems. Is your experience first hand or hearsay?

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Ok, now a few insights:

1.) The paint suggested very early in these postings was called "acrylic/enamel paint"...this is not exactly what you're looking for. The proper paint type is "aklyd enamel". The "acrylic/enamel" is water based, and that isn't what you want (read about "acrylic/enamel" on this web page). As a matter of fact, you do not necessarily have to buy "rustoleum". I bought mine from the local "Do-It-Center" and it is the house brand made by Sherwin Williams...worked fine. The easiest way to tell if you have the right thing is to look at the directions and see what "clean-up" instructions are...if it says "clean with Mineral Spirits", than you have the right stuff. Many people make compatible brands.

2.) It may also say in the instructions that you do not have to thin...in this case, you have to thin. My ratio was 10:1, worked great. It will bubble and look "orange peely" at first, but relax, the paint self-levels as it drys.

3.) At first, I understood that we could use a $20 orbital buffer/polisher like you buy a Wal-Mart, etc...Although it seems to have worked for others, it did NOT work for me. It would not eliminate the scratches from the final 1500 grit wetsanding. Luckily, I had a 7" ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER just like the one on this web page. It worked wonders!!

Will write more later if I think of anything. If you have questions about my procedure, I will do my best to help...thanks guys

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Well as long as long as we're painting cars with boat paint...how about some aircraft roll on paint. A few colors, primers, and clear coat.

http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/metal-aircraft.htm

And they also have an EPA friendly rust/corrosion coating that hardens like ceramic.

http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/evershield.htm

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Well as long as long as we're painting cars with boat paint...how about some aircraft roll on paint. A few colors, primers, and clear coat.

http://www.aircraftfinishing.com/metal-aircraft.htm

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I had read a number of articles about the aircraft chaps 'rolling' their paint - the same way that we and the boaters are doing it.

The only problem with the aircraft paint is that IT IS MUCHO EXPENSIVE.... and in the same category of cost as some of the more premium automotive paints. Which would sort of defeat our intention of finding a relatively cheap way to lay a reasonably good looking skin on to our cars.

The other downside of aircraft paint is : AVAILABILITY... in that the Tremclad/Rustoleum can be picked up in quite a few local stores... and the marine paint can be picked up at any marine supplier. But aircraft paint almost always needs to be ordered and shipped.

But I do agree that it is an interesting paint - and they do offer a metalic gold that they claim you can see your reflection mirrored in

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for non flat panels instead of using the small roller what should i use?

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for non flat panels instead of using the small roller what should i use?

ps. 69charger = cheap paint GOD

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