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Lokar Kick Down questions for 727 **** UPDATE*****
#2540031
08/22/18 02:37 PM
08/22/18 02:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
RJS
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
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Anyone using this setup for their car? What's your thoughts on it's operation? I can't get my stock style rod set-up to work properly on a 72 400 with a Holley Carburetor and TM-6.
I'm either too far from instant contact or making the rod move too far resulting in no full throttle.
Any pictures of a Lokar on a bigblock and Holley at the carburetor would be helpful so I see how it looks.
Ron
Last edited by RJS; 08/29/18 07:38 PM.
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: rarefish]
#2540043
08/22/18 02:59 PM
08/22/18 02:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
RJS
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
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If the carb sits higher on your new intake then it did with the stock intake then your factory kick down linkage will not usually work. That when the cable set up comes in handy.
Here is a pic of the Lokar kick down cable and throttle cable on my 440 with a Eddie Performer RPM intake and a Eddie Performer carb. Thank you for your response and picture!! I would assume I can still use my stock Throttle cable and bracket since the Lokar kickdown bolts to carburetor base?? Ron
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: RJS]
#2540105
08/22/18 05:31 PM
08/22/18 05:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,858
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,858
Rio Linda, CA
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I'm an outspoken critic of the Lokar cable when installed using their directions.
The problem with the Lokar is that it's generic even when advertised to fit a Mopar because of the different lengths of the factory transmission lever.
If the generic Lokar instructions are followed and the cable adjusted so that the trans lever is full back at carb WOT you can see (simple math) that the first 3/4" to 1 1/2" of the lever travel is already used up at idle and there's no spring to pull the lever forward.
It's not unusual to see these Lokar installations have light throttle 1-2 shifts at 25+ mph and 2-3 at 40+ mph or even higher and, possibly, no 2-3 upshift at all. If the cable is adjusted for correct light throttle shift points there is insufficient TP at WOT and no forced downshifts. Potential damage.
So, as I've repeatedly ranted, the Lokar works OK if the installer ignores the Lokar adjustment procedure and knows to match the total travel of the cable attach points and installs a spring.
You need to measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and then measure the full travel of the transmission lever where the cable attaches; it usually won't be the same so you need to drill a new hole in the transmission lever so that the full travel of both levers is the same. Also, there should be a spring pulling the transmission lever forward.
It isn't necessary for the trans lever to be full back at WOT but be sure that WOT under the hood is the same as WOT at the pedal...misadjusted throttle linkage will prevent the carb from going wide open when the pedal is matted and that, in turn, will prevent the trans lever from going back enough to provide kickdown.
Remove the cable from the carb and measure how far the hole in the throttle lever moves from idle to WOT. Then measure how far the hole in the trans lever moves from full forward to full back. The movement of the trans lever will likely be more than the carb lever so find the spot on the trans lever that matches the travel of the carb lever and drill there.
It's unlikely that the trans lever will return to the full forward position without a spring assist.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2540136
08/22/18 07:22 PM
08/22/18 07:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
RJS
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
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I'm an outspoken critic of the Lokar cable when installed using their directions.
The problem with the Lokar is that it's generic even when advertised to fit a Mopar because of the different lengths of the factory transmission lever.
If the generic Lokar instructions are followed and the cable adjusted so that the trans lever is full back at carb WOT you can see (simple math) that the first 3/4" to 1 1/2" of the lever travel is already used up at idle and there's no spring to pull the lever forward.
It's not unusual to see these Lokar installations have light throttle 1-2 shifts at 25+ mph and 2-3 at 40+ mph or even higher and, possibly, no 2-3 upshift at all. If the cable is adjusted for correct light throttle shift points there is insufficient TP at WOT and no forced downshifts. Potential damage.
So, as I've repeatedly ranted, the Lokar works OK if the installer ignores the Lokar adjustment procedure and knows to match the total travel of the cable attach points and installs a spring.
You need to measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and then measure the full travel of the transmission lever where the cable attaches; it usually won't be the same so you need to drill a new hole in the transmission lever so that the full travel of both levers is the same. Also, there should be a spring pulling the transmission lever forward.
It isn't necessary for the trans lever to be full back at WOT but be sure that WOT under the hood is the same as WOT at the pedal...misadjusted throttle linkage will prevent the carb from going wide open when the pedal is matted and that, in turn, will prevent the trans lever from going back enough to provide kickdown.
Remove the cable from the carb and measure how far the hole in the throttle lever moves from idle to WOT. Then measure how far the hole in the trans lever moves from full forward to full back. The movement of the trans lever will likely be more than the carb lever so find the spot on the trans lever that matches the travel of the carb lever and drill there.
It's unlikely that the trans lever will return to the full forward position without a spring assist. John I appreciate your input on this subject. I am very hesitant to go with this set-up because of the visual differences underhood also. With that said it sounds like I'd be better off doing the math you describe and then just use my factory rod no? Thanks Ron
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: RJS]
#2540160
08/22/18 08:30 PM
08/22/18 08:30 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
CSK
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
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Bouchillon has the best set up, they have the correct ratio for a mopar. CLICK HERE
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI
512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim
2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: CSK]
#2540164
08/22/18 08:38 PM
08/22/18 08:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
RJS
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
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Bouchillon has the best set up, they have the correct ratio for a mopar. CLICK HERE Didn't know that one existed, thanks for the information!! Just went through the Boochillon instructions and like what I see, they have covered all my concerns!! Ron
Last edited by RJS; 08/22/18 08:52 PM.
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: 62maxwgn]
#2540167
08/22/18 08:53 PM
08/22/18 08:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,224
JERSEY
RJS
OP
master
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OP
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JERSEY
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I think if you do a little research you find a big preference with Bouchillon over Lokar.  Yep Bill looks to be well thought out!! Ron
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: RJS]
#2540177
08/22/18 09:04 PM
08/22/18 09:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,551
Norwich CT USA
moparts
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,551
Norwich CT USA
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Yes the Bouchillon setup works great.
Have it on my 727 in my Jeep CJ7 and works , set it once and forgot about it
switched from carb to fitech and didn't even need to mess with it
Tom ,
2011 Ram 3500 C&C Diesel
2009 Challenger R/T
1971 Challenger Conv. 511/4 speed
1970 Challenger R/T 503/727
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: Mopar1970440]
#2540191
08/22/18 09:35 PM
08/22/18 09:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,459
oklahoma
forphorty
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,459
oklahoma
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Ive had the lokar cables on a few different cars..personally I didn't like the looks or the process of setting them up. I loved it when I went to manual valve bodys and was able to remove them. I bought my first manual valve body over 25 years ago. I have two cars currently with them and a project car that will have one when it hits the road. Will never go back to automatic function.
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: moparts]
#2540235
08/22/18 11:42 PM
08/22/18 11:42 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,734
Florida
BDW
master
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master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,734
Florida
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Yes the Bouchillon setup works great.
Have it on my 727 in my Jeep CJ7 and works , set it once and forgot about it
switched from carb to fitech and didn't even need to mess with it Same here, Bouchillon set-up is a little spendy, but it works.
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: RJS]
#2540317
08/23/18 09:01 AM
08/23/18 09:01 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,806
Northern NJ
StukaJU87
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,806
Northern NJ
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Just ordered up the Bouchchillon kit tonight, thanks to everyone that helped me out with this!!
Ron You won't be disappointed. I used their kit when I had my 69 Wagon that I put a 440/727 in. I am not a mechanic, more of a tinkerer and I followed the instructions and was very pleased.
Scott
1969 Super Bee, 383/4 speed
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Re: Lokar Kick Down questions for 727
[Re: CSK]
#2540433
08/23/18 01:48 PM
08/23/18 01:48 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,954
Blairsden, CA
Triggerfish
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,954
Blairsden, CA
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Bouchillon has the best set up, they have the correct ratio for a mopar. CLICK HERE Thanks John & Ron for your best advice for the linkage problem! Looks like I'll be changing the (expensive), non factory looking setup for my new D100 we're finishing & its 383 we've rebuilt.. and I'll also be getting Bouchellon's kit for my 71 W100's new motor that's almost done. I had the Lokar setup on the W100's orikg 383 for years & used it for the D100, so NOW I'll be replacing both with correct setups. Sure appreciate this post.
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