Lokar Kick Down questions for 727 **** UPDATE*****

Anyone using this setup for their car? What's your thoughts on it's operation? I can't get my stock style rod set-up to work properly on a 72 400 with a Holley Carburetor and TM-6.

I'm either too far from instant contact or making the rod move too far resulting in no full throttle.

Any pictures of a Lokar on a bigblock and Holley at the carburetor would be helpful so I see how it looks.

Ron

If the carb sits higher on your new intake then it did with the stock intake then your factory kick down linkage will not usually work. That when the cable set up comes in handy.
Here is a pic of the Lokar kick down cable and throttle cable on my 440 with a Eddie Performer RPM intake and a Eddie Performer carb.

Thank you for your response and picture!!
I would assume I can still use my stock Throttle cable and bracket since the Lokar kickdown bolts to carburetor base??
Ron

Ron,
I did some work a few years ago on a 69 Hemi Roadrunner clone ( single 4 barrel carb ) and installed the Lokar setup. I dont remember any issues .

I cant remember if I used the stock Mopar throttle cable or not( this was maybe 6 or 7 years ago )

I'm an outspoken critic of the Lokar cable when installed using their directions.

The problem with the Lokar is that it's generic even when advertised to fit a Mopar because of the different lengths of the factory transmission lever.

If the generic Lokar instructions are followed and the cable adjusted so that the trans lever is full back at carb WOT you can see (simple math) that the first 3/4" to 1 1/2" of the lever travel is already used up at idle and there's no spring to pull the lever forward.

It's not unusual to see these Lokar installations have light throttle 1-2 shifts at 25+ mph and 2-3 at 40+ mph or even higher and, possibly, no 2-3 upshift at all. If the cable is adjusted for correct light throttle shift points there is insufficient TP at WOT and no forced downshifts. Potential damage.

So, as I've repeatedly ranted, the Lokar works OK if the installer ignores the Lokar adjustment procedure and knows to match the total travel of the cable attach points and installs a spring.

You need to measure the full travel of the carb lever where the cable attaches and then measure the full travel of the transmission lever where the cable attaches; it usually won't be the same so you need to drill a new hole in the transmission lever so that the full travel of both levers is the same. Also, there should be a spring pulling the transmission lever forward.

It isn't necessary for the trans lever to be full back at WOT but be sure that WOT under the hood is the same as WOT at the pedal...misadjusted throttle linkage will prevent the carb from going wide open when the pedal is matted and that, in turn, will prevent the trans lever from going back enough to provide kickdown.

Remove the cable from the carb and measure how far the hole in the throttle lever moves from idle to WOT. Then measure how far the hole in the trans lever moves from full forward to full back. The movement of the trans lever will likely be more than the carb lever so find the spot on the trans lever that matches the travel of the carb lever and drill there.

It's unlikely that the trans lever will return to the full forward position without a spring assist.

John I appreciate your input on this subject. I am very hesitant to go with this set-up because of the visual differences underhood also. With that said it sounds like I'd be better off doing the math you describe and then just use my factory rod no?
Thanks Ron

Ive had the lokar cables on a few different cars..personally I didn't like the looks or the process of setting them up. I loved it when I went to manual valve bodys and was able to remove them.

Bouchillon has the best set up, they have the correct ratio for a mopar.
CLICK HERE

I think if you do a little research you find a big preference with Bouchillon over Lokar.

Didn't know that one existed, thanks for the information!!

Just went through the Boochillon instructions and like what I see, they have covered all my concerns!!
Ron

Yep Bill looks to be well thought out!!
Ron

Yes the Bouchillon setup works great.

Have it on my 727 in my Jeep CJ7 and works , set it once and forgot about it

switched from carb to fitech and didn't even need to mess with it

I bought my first manual valve body over 25 years ago. I have two cars currently with them and a project car that will have one when it hits the road. Will never go back to automatic function.

Same here, Bouchillon set-up is a little spendy, but it works.

Just ordered up the Bouchchillon kit tonight, thanks to everyone that helped me out with this!!
Ron

You won't be disappointed. I used their kit when I had my 69 Wagon that I put a 440/727 in. I am not a mechanic, more of a tinkerer and I followed the instructions and was very pleased.

John Kunkel has it right when it comes to the Lokar kick down cable. I installed a Lokar cable in my 64 440 Belvedere 18 years ago. I followed their install instructions, but was always dealing with a late 2-3 shift.
After reading some of his prior posts here, I finally did something about it earlier this year.
First I drilled a new hole to relocated the cable attaching point on the transmission lever inward about 1". I also added a return spring that I installed in the original hole that the cable previously attached to.
A big improvement was realized. I finally have a transmission that shifts correctly.

i'm another one against the lokar setup. i have personally removed over a dozen of those junk pieces, and either reverted back to modified stock setups, bouchillon kits, or manual valve bodies. if you want to use bicycle cable, go to the hardware store. the brackets are junk and bend super easy during use. and as john said, their instructions are worthless. buyer beware !

Thanks John & Ron for your best advice for the linkage problem! Looks like I'll be changing the (expensive), non factory looking setup for my new D100 we're finishing & its 383 we've rebuilt.. and I'll also be getting Bouchellon's kit for my 71 W100's new motor that's almost done. I had the Lokar setup on the W100's orikg 383 for years & used it for the D100, so NOW I'll be replacing both with correct setups. Sure appreciate this post.

really GREAT looking truck ! i likey a lot !

Thanks & can't wait to get the new throttle linkage on the D100's hot 383 so I can break it in. When I get it sold, the bouchellon setup will make the 71 Power Wagon's look much better, too. Also am finishing my 64 Belvedere's 383 stroker, so I'll need the linnkage setup for it, too. Sure am glad I read this post.

If you want to save some money, go to the junkyard and get the kickdown setup off any Dodge pickup 1994-2001. It is the same as the Bouchellon setup minus the throttle lever adaptor which is easy to make yourself. Last one I got out of the JY cost me $20

I've ben told the same thing by a very reliable Mopar trans builder that has been in the business for years and years, Dave Smith at Pro Trans
I'll be ordering one for my customer who has a 572 C.i. 800 HP pump gas hemi in his Pro street, resto mod 1971 Challenger
I've used the Lokar kit, not bolt on and ready to go true bolt on deal though

Wanted to give somewhat of an update!!!!

I got the Bouchillon set-up on Monday morning and put it in that afternoon. Very nice set-up! Would have went much easier if I didn't have TTI headers, all set and measured but haven't driven the car yet. (been near 100 past few days).
I like everything about this kit and will let everyone know when I take it out later today of tomorrow.
Ron

I would never ever run a Lokar again... no need for 95% of applications.

I got to drive my car today and the Bouchillon set-up works perfectly, even have full throttle now!!!
Ron

bouchillon or the factory magnum cable setup is the ONLY way to go if a cable is needed. glad you have success !