I am trying to mount an aluminum master cylinder with the 4 to 2 bolt adapter. When I try to hook up the brake pedal linkage it appears the master cylinder needs to come up about 2". I thought this would be the simple part but can't figure out if I have incorrect parts or having a dumb attack. I assume the latter.

is the hole in the fire wall big enough to flip the bracket end for end.what body style is it on,that info might help.

Hard to beat the factory design.

This is a 70 Challenger. I think the hole is big enough , but the bolt holes would no line up. All the googled pictures I have looked at look like what I have for manual brakes

Did the car have manual breaks initially?

Hard to tell from pic, should connect to bolt on pedal, not the empty hole.

I tried to tell him.

If the master cylinder connects directly to the pedal do you get rid of the linkage completely?

Except for the linkage that hooks the pedal direct to the M/C.

Might help if the pictures weren't all sideways.

Might also help if you had a copy of the factory parts book so you could see how it goes together. Probably should have an FSM too.

If manual brakes you would toss all the PB pivot/lever stuff behind the dash & run a pushrod from the pedal straight out to the MC. If the pedal is still a PB unit, the hole may or may not need to be raised or lowered. Make sure the MC choice has the shallow circular recess in the rear piston "thimble" for the neoprene snip to lock into

Stop it, we've had this discussion before. There are exactly 2 pedals available for a 70 E body. One for automatic transmissions and one for manual transmissions. There is ZERO difference for manual or power brake applications.

See clip form factory parts book. The B/J column is E body

Watch your mouth boy, All you gotta say is, actually there is no difference between manual & power brake pedals & I will be corrected.

Ok , that makes more sense. I was trying to use the linkage from a power drum setup. Next question.... do you use a much shorter pushrod? I bought what I thought was an original manual brake pushrod for a Challenger. It is about 7" long. When connected directly to the brake pedal it makes the pedal position way too high in the car.

I have 2 manual brake pushrods (not handy at the moment) but one is a fair amt shorter than the other. Not sure what they came off of but I would assume A bodies (if that makes a difference) as that is most all I am into tho spares can come from most anything.

I believe all bodies (A,B,E) have different length rods

Well, it looks like if I buy an adjustable pushrod and forget about the linkage I will be in business. Thanks guys for all your help!!

The reason for the linkage is to reduce the pedal ratio for power brakes so one pedal works on both manual and power.

This is not true of all models, some do have different pedals with different pedal ratios.

You've been corrected more than once.



Hence the suggestion to use the factory parts book and FSM in sorting this crap out.

You should also make a positive stop so the pushrod does not come out of the Mater Cylinder or buy the pushrod from a race supplier that has a trapped push rod . Don't trust the rubber piece.

I know a guy that happened to on the track he was doing about 125 then hit the brakes and no pedal connection at all The only thing that saved him was the Jerico trans that will go into any gear at any speed.
I used an adjustable pushrod from Doctordiff and fabbed my own return spring that keeps the rod in the piston.

Gus