anyone see a benefit of doing an oil change a specific way? hot oil vs cold oil?

there just was a thread on this but I don't remember the jist of it.

I've always changed it hot. Just always thought you would get
more complete drainage.

Changing it cold can allow and solids in suspension to settle out and remain to recontaminate the new oil.

Not to mention hot oil flows better.

I prefer lukewarm. Shaken, not stirred.

Its all about the vw factor.

If you shut it down hot, how long do you wait to pull the plug?

If you drain it cold, you get all the rewards of all the heat thinning the oil, gravity draining and time as well.

I will break the filter loose and the plug while hot and pull the plug when cool, dump 1/2 qt in the top to flush the pan a bit and thats about all I can do.

If its a real busy time in my life, it just dont matter and the fact is I still changed the oil.

But really anyway one does it, is it really going to matter in the end?

Some of the pics are gone because of Photobucket but this cures the hot oil problem

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1380008/1.html

Hot, but not blazing "if you touch the dipstick it's like napalm" hot.

Only because it seems to drain a whole lot faster.

I like burning the crap out of my hand when I pull the drain plug, so...

I have always changed mine cold.
never had an oil related issue.
my cars die of other causes.

The worst is when one takes the car to the dealer or elsewhere for an oil change and it sits for a few hours before pulled in onto the rack.

The engine is cold as is the oil, the tech removes the drain plug and lets oil run for a couple of minutes and replaces the plug.

Adds 5 quarts of oil to a 6 quart capacity pan and calls it a day.

Or possibly worse, puts in the recommended 6 quarts

What could go wrong?

He could forget to put the plug back in, or close the valve it it has that fancy valve. He could forget to put in oil, or the wrong oil. He might or might not replace the filter.

The only substantive case I can make here is, drain it hot while anything in the oil is still suspended, but let drain for awhile to get as much oil drained as possible, I go like 1/2hr, and its still dripping, talking about the oil.

Usually cold.

I always figured with it cold, the oil had time to drain back to the pan from the upper extremes of the engine giving a more complete drain.

Rarely am I in a rush, so, I'll pull the plug and let gravity do its thing for a half hour or longer.

I've always done it this way and have never had an issue.

good idea that I have wondered about for awhile & recently I had oil pan out/leveled (tho most are changed with the front jacked up) I was surprised at the amt of dirty oil left in the bottom (& extended oil changes are getting more common).

I drain mine after work on Friday evening when the motor is still warm, but not hot, and let it drip all night. Next morning I pull the filter off, and because all the oil has settled it doesn't run on me, and put a new one on and start adding new oil.

I researched this years ago and the hot oil change was the best ( as said above) because the "contaminants are held in suspension and drain out with the oil"..

Surprised nobody has mentioned, I also use a qt of generic "oil change flush" additive nearly every oil change, with my typical longer then average intervals. It's probably the most expensive off road red dyed diesel fuel one can buy.

It's also impossible to get all the oil out of the engine as the drain bolt hole is either too high up on the pan, or if it's on the bottom any oil from the top of the stove nut on down won't come out. I guess you could jack the car up, or rock it back and forth to help slosh a bit more out.

If sediment is a major concern, I would think seriously on a better filter. Not sure what most are rated at, but I believe it is only a few microns that is allowed to pass through the filter.

I usually change it fairly warm, and not hot. Cold, it takes forever for the last drop to drip.