In the past when we used elephant ears and or a front motor plate in a non stock BB A body we would position the motor where we wanted it front to rear, left to right and up or down) with the headers and trans mount bolted down and then weld the angle iron onto the front sub frames to bolt the motor plate to

Pass side header went on no problem. 1" or more clearance.

Thats kind of what im doing. Trans is bolted up with slotted t mount. Used one schumacher conversion mount on pass side to locate but its tight. Trans dip stick is tight against firewall. I think it needs to move forward and to past side a bit more.

That is the one nice thing about running a B body tank like mine, you just put the motor in and go! I just need to loose 800 pounds LOL.
Once you are done fitting, the final result will be more than worth the effort I am sure. Can't wait to see pictures of finished product.
Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. Hard to find the extra time to work on ot, so its slow going. Should be done soon.

So cab, should the engine plate be centered or tight to the pass side inner fender when properly located?

Tt's your choice on where YOU want it
I used a motor plate on my Duster and slid the motor back and made sure it was as far as I could get it over to the right side(passenger side) for maximum weight on that side and still get to the spark plugs easily with the hooker 2.0 inch fender well headers to offset my body weight in the drivers seat
I slotted the trans mount to slide the motor and tranny back as far as I could get it and still get the passenger side valve cover off without hitting the stock firewall, I had to remove a little more of the fender wells to clear the headers also on sliding it back
Once I had it where I wanted it located I had the front angle iron tabs welded onto the top of the sub frames and then drilled the two 3/8 inch holes on each side to bolt it down. I did have the motor plate sitting behind the tabs also
That car ended up with me in the driver seat on having 49 3/4 % on the rear tires and 50 1/4% total car weight on the fronts

My engine plates put the engine where TTI wants it. That is the whole idea of using my pre-machined plates. They are designed to match the TTI drawing so the engine is where it needs to be for the headers to fit. You had the engine plate on backwards which is why you had so much trouble.

Don't feel bad Dave, I did the same thing and had to flip the plate around myself.

Andy why is the nice semi polished side of your engine plate suppose to face the engine and the dull side with purple ink stampings face the radiator. thats where i went wrong. just thought the nice side should face forward.

Cab, i cant go back any further as the trans dipstick tube is tight against the firewall and looking at the steering box and engine in its current position i think it needs to go forward a bit for headers to fit. Also having drag link oil pan cleance issues with the moroso pan you sold me awhile back. just on the outer edges. It will turn almost lock to lock but hits the pan. normal?

How about giving him some measurements!Like pulling teeth around here.

according to hughes engines site the engine needs to sit 1.375" toward pass from center. i'm still going to use the schumacher motor mount on pass side to help locate engine in proper location, makes headers easier fit. Maddog headers fit real nice on pass side. had them in and bolted up in about 10 minutes.

yeah, [censored] happens i guess. ordered another plate. should be here next week. i had holes drilled for coil and such, wont look right if i flip it around.

I also thought the motor plate should have had the nice side with the logo facing forward, but it went up against the motor facing the rear of the car and the dull side with ink markings faced out.
I just figured our Duster is so ugly Andy didn't want anyone to know it was his.

I know, its ass backwards. I would think they would like the logo/nice side facing forward.