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That random orbital buffer will not cut paint anywhere near enough to buff out sanding haze. It has very low pad speed and a very large contact area. That is designed for people who have never used a buffer before because it makes it impossible for you to burn the paint. If you have a buffer that will not burn the paint when used improperly, it really isn't doing anything. You need a real 7" rotory buffer with a wool pad.

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I have spent the last 2 days reading this entire thread. I started from a link from the mr2oc.com forums. I will probably paint my car this way and will keep reading here. I just wanted to thank you guys for all the testing and posting. To bad a lot of the pictures do not show.

Keep up the good work

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Im actually might try and paint my MR2 with this

I practiced on a fender. Half of the fender was sanded prepped down to the metal; the other half, I left the primer that was on there. I thought I read on the board mix about 20% of mineral spirits to the paint, however when I mixed to 20% the paint was still too thick- probably weather conditions, it was about mid 50s outside (in farenheit). I think I mixed it to about to 300% and the consistency was still more than 'water'. It had the consistency more of baby oil, however I think it might work out better. One layer of paint so far and it covered the fender pretty well. I was worried at first because there seems to be a lot of bubbles, but after it dried there are less, still a lot but less. However I think if I sand it down with 600-800 grit or so then sand and put another layer of paint, it should take care of that. So maybe 3-4 layers and then a final buffing. So mixing it a little thick doesnt seem too bad. However the paint has not dried to the touch yet, still a little sticky after about 5 hours, but thats with the temperature only getting colder it should take a little longer. And I'm sure it doesnt help that I added more mineral spirits and that will delay the cureing process. I took some pictures but I will upload them later on- probably when I finish the fender.
Ill report back on the hardness of the paint after a while. I intend to bake the paint a little with a heater see if that will harden it a bit.

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You really have to thin the paint out. I was putting it on too thick. I just did the hood. I thinned it way down on the hood and what a difference.

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Ok, now a few insights:

1.) The paint suggested very early in these postings was called "acrylic/enamel paint"...this is not exactly what you're looking for. The proper paint type is "aklyd enamel". The "acrylic/enamel" is water based, and that isn't what you want (read about "acrylic/enamel" on this web page). As a matter of fact, you do not necessarily have to buy "rustoleum". I bought mine from the local "Do-It-Center" and it is the house brand made by Sherwin Williams...worked fine. The easiest way to tell if you have the right thing is to look at the directions and see what "clean-up" instructions are...if it says "clean with Mineral Spirits", than you have the right stuff. Many people make compatible brands.

2.) It may also say in the instructions that you do not have to thin...in this case, you have to thin. My ratio was 10:1, worked great. It will bubble and look "orange peely" at first, but relax, the paint self-levels as it drys.

3.) At first, I understood that we could use a $20 orbital buffer/polisher like you buy a Wal-Mart, etc...Although it seems to have worked for others, it did NOT work for me. It would not eliminate the scratches from the final 1500 grit wetsanding. Luckily, I had a 7" ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER just like the one on this web page. It worked wonders!!

Will write more later if I think of anything. If you have questions about my procedure, I will do my best to help...thanks guys

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i allways have suggested the alklyd enamel (rust paint) to roller on, i think the confusion comes from the 71 midnight metalic blue beetle in my pics that was SPRAYED with dupli color single stage acrylic enamel. just to clear things up.

by the way, nice job, i hope to see it all done

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Ok, now a few insights:

1.) The paint suggested very early in these postings was called "acrylic/enamel paint"...this is not exactly what you're looking for. The proper paint type is "aklyd enamel". The "acrylic/enamel" is water based, and that isn't what you want (read about "acrylic/enamel" on this web page). As a matter of fact, you do not necessarily have to buy "rustoleum". I bought mine from the local "Do-It-Center" and it is the house brand made by Sherwin Williams...worked fine. The easiest way to tell if you have the right thing is to look at the directions and see what "clean-up" instructions are...if it says "clean with Mineral Spirits", than you have the right stuff. Many people make compatible brands.

2.) It may also say in the instructions that you do not have to thin...in this case, you have to thin. My ratio was 10:1, worked great. It will bubble and look "orange peely" at first, but relax, the paint self-levels as it drys.

3.) At first, I understood that we could use a $20 orbital buffer/polisher like you buy a Wal-Mart, etc...Although it seems to have worked for others, it did NOT work for me. It would not eliminate the scratches from the final 1500 grit wetsanding. Luckily, I had a 7" ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER just like the one on this web page. It worked wonders!!

Will write more later if I think of anything. If you have questions about my procedure, I will do my best to help...thanks guys

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Hi Chuck - at first glance, your test area looks kind of dull and it looks like the surface is blotchy, in the light reflections. Granted the light isn't that great, but the surface doesn't look smooth - was it straight to begin with?

What did you use when wetsanding, did you do it by hand or with a block of some sort? If the surface really is as uneven as it looks you might want to try a soft foam sanding block with your paper wrapped around it.

If you did everything as prescribed in this thread and the job came out lacking lustre as it appears to, you might want to try actual rustoleum, e.g. from walmart. I don't know if the paint is the difference or if it's the technique but your surface does not seem to be as glossy or mirror like as it could be. for example this is with the same technique, foam sanding block used when wetsanding, and with cheap rustoleum gloss from walmart.


If the paint surface is uneven, I would go back at it with 600 grit and water, with a soft foam block, till it's smooth, then build it up again with 2-3 more thin coats.

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Hi Chuck - at first glance, your test area looks kind of dull and it looks like the surface is blotchy, in the light reflections. Granted the light isn't that great, but the surface doesn't look smooth - was it straight to begin with?

What did you use when wetsanding, did you do it by hand or with a block of some sort? If the surface really is as uneven as it looks you might want to try a soft foam sanding block with your paper wrapped around it.

If you did everything as prescribed in this thread and the job came out lacking lustre as it appears to, you might want to try actual rustoleum, e.g. from walmart. I don't know if the paint is the difference or if it's the technique but your surface does not seem to be as glossy or mirror like as it could be. for example this is with the same technique, foam sanding block used when wetsanding, and with cheap rustoleum gloss from walmart.

If the paint surface is uneven, I would go back at it with 600 grit and water, with a soft foam block, till it's smooth, then build it up again with 2-3 more thin coats.

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