So the yoke is physically longer to accommodate the spacer.... that's good to know.

Correct,then it's easy to make something to hold the sensor.

This is what I ended up doing.

Made this on the Bridgeport at work in my free time.

It would seem that way wouldn't it? lol I just bought a Moser Billet yoke for a D60, thinking it would be like the one for my 8.75. It's not, it doesn't have room for a driveshaft collar. It would be nice to use the Moser yoke I have on my 8.75 but it is a 10 spline piece and there is no ten spline gear sets available for the Dana 60. So I emailed Moser about the 29 spline 8.75 yoke they offer and it to is different and doesn't have room for a collar. Welcome to hot rodding!

Looks Like I will check out the strange yoke that HEMITIS is using.

Hemi-Itis you don't know what the ID of that sensor collar you have is do you? I am curious to see if the one I have already will work with the strange yoke. Given my luck I am sure it won't but you never know haha

There's a plethora of tone rings on Racepaks website. Scroll down on the price listing sheet. I ordered a 1.37 ring and will shim it to my 1.33 output shaft and am going to drill and tap the tailshaft housing.

I put .015 shim between the halves of my ring and machined it to my pinion size, since Racepak didn't have the correct size. The .015 shims gave me the ability to machine it to the exact shaft size which would normally more than likely spin a bit, with the extra .015 it gave me clamping ability. This way the collar will never move.

Why are you putting all that time into a rear end thats a ticking tomb bomb

It's only a SB.........tick.... tick.... tick

hahaha

Yeah but I already have one with a 2.125 ID. I emailed Strange because I will more than likely use their yoke but so far no response.

8 years and still ticking....

Racepak's 800CL2M137 split ring will fit on a 727 output shaft. The one I mocked it up on required a shim I made from a section of beer can (.002) to tighten up, but the trans going in the car it fit tight with no shim. It will clear the inside of the tailshaft, but due to the taper, the farther forward you can go, the more room you'll have. Bring a tap home from work tomorrow and I can button things up. A person could do this in car as the tail housing comes off pretty easy.

Nice Work! I have seen someone mention using the park "wheel" with a sensor before, that might be something I try next time I have the trans out.

drilling on he rib also afforded more "meat" to tap threads into too. Another angle I thought would be to put a tone ring where where the speedo gear would mount and then tap a speedo gear housing and mount the pickup in there.... but I didn't have a stock speedo gear housing laying around to even look at. Using the park ring.... very feasible, but.... there are 18 lugs, so only two oppose each other so you still end up with a two mag signal. Would be nice if there were four opposing lugs then you could go 4 mag. Assuming drilling the lug and epoxying a couple of these flush would work... no? https://www.amazon.com/200pcs-Strong-Neo...rds=2mm+magnets

That's a great idea! Nice work!

How do you set the proper clearance with a setup like that? Requires .050 to .100 clearance.

Divide the thread pitch into 1 inch. 1" / 16 = .0625"
One turn out from bottomed would be .0625" .

I screwed the pickup until it bottomed out. ran the nut down to the tail shaft, unscrewed the pick up about a turn noting the gap beween the nut and the tail. Tightened the nut to lock it into place and called it good.
Since the trans was out of the car I was able to look down past the seal with a good flashlight and observe the gap also. While I did mock this up in the car with an empty case and tail shaft, I would prefer if the pickup was a lot shorter as it does stick out quite a bit. Going to see if there is a shorter one available. I'm "betting" I could cut the extra threaded part and there is just wiring inside which I could shrink wrap, but I don't want to risk ruining it as they are $129. I'll call Racepak and see what my options are. Either way, this mod cost the $45 for the split ring.



trans is back in the car and there is plenty of clearance.... but it does bother me.

Here is a good thread on this subject.


https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2093032

If you have Wilwood rear brakes you might have an easy way to add a sensor to pick up the wheel studs for wheel speed/vehicle speed.

On my Wilwood brackets there was an extra hole on the front side of the bracket that is just above the flange for the bearing. It just happens to line up perfectly with the wheel studs. For my particular sensor I had to enlarge it a little and knock the corner off of the housing end flange. I haven't driven it yet but its the same sensor and wiring as I used before I switched to the dana. I wanted to due the park wheel in the trans but this was easy and already wired haha.

This was a very rare project, it only took 30 minutes and didn't cost a dime.