So, I'm thinking about buying a tubing bender to build my own cage. Maybe I'll bend and weld some roll bars up for the locals to help offset the cost, too. I'm looking between JD2 and Woodward Fab. Woodward is a couple hundred dollars cheaper (bender, stand, dies), plus available from Summit with free shipping. Dies are all 120 degree setups. JD2 has 90 degree and 180 degree dies, with 180 degree dies being the recommended purchase. Anyone ever do any side by side comparisons? Both seem like decent units. I've read a couple of reviews from Woodward customers that mentioned components bending or breaking, but Woodward stepped right up and shipped out replacement parts ASAP, no repeat failures.

I bought a Jd2 model 32 for the shop.... Granted I'm not a fabricator, my buddy is. He actually runs the fab shop for DSR. According to him, the JD2 is pretty dang impressive and far better at repeating and set up then the unit they have at work. I know that's not what you were wanting exactly for an answer, but hope it helps.

This is mine, its more talented then I am, I am satisfied for what I know, and have nothing to compare it to.

http://shop.pro-tools.com/products/hydraulic-tube-and-pipe-bender-302-one-shot

I think JD Squared has been around a lot longer. HOWEVER, if you look at their website there seems to be a waiting period for most stuff - like its made-to-order. Do you want to wait two weeks when you need a die ??

I love JD2. Built many go minibikes and go karts from their most-basic unit.

I have a JD Squared Model 3 with a hydraulic conversion that we engineered and built ourselves. Purchased in the early 90s and would not consider anything else except for maybe an upgraded machine from JD.

We have used this machine for 1.75 4130 down to .75 thin wall stuff. This machine makes smoother, nicer bends than some I've seen on high end stuff (think Top Fuel). Our hydraulics are very controllable and it's fairly easy to get things bent exactly as needed. Different bend radius and sweep angle dies available for all sizes. My big dies are 90 (actually about 100) degrees with the smaller sizes being 180s. That tooling is where you get money tied up. Steel dies instead of aluminum and are easy to re-polish if needed. All parts and dies are still available, nothing has gone obsolete. And it's made in the USA.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I expect anything that would do a nicer job than this would have to be a high dollar production machine. We had a machine like the "One Shot". Got rid of it after one job. Bought this and never looked back. Like any tool, the more you use it, the better operator you become. You have to learn how to make things mirror image working from a centerline, multiple bends in a piece and keeping it from having a twist (main hoops), compound bends (A pillar bars), fitting, working with springback of different materials, the math and formulas, etc. Expect to waste some material along the way.

JD2 all the way

I have the JD2 model 32 with hydraulics. It is a very nice bender. I have 5 dies and have never purchased more than 1 at a time and they always come with in a week of order...

I, for one, know very well that when jumping into anything new, there is always a learning curve. Tubing thrown away after making different bends isn't a "waste". It is helping me learn to make the best cage possible for my car, and maybe others. It seems that the JD2 unit is the big winner, hands down. Are there any other sources for purchase besides factory direct that might offer discounts? Any Moparts members a wholesaler for them?

I have a few more dies but never had to wait when I needed one.

I had the JD model 104(they dont make it anymore) with
the air over hyd... if you plan on bending moly get
the hyd unit... with out it you will kill yourself trying
to bend moly..... I built a lot of stuff with it.. all my
dies were 120*... sold the whole thing about a year ago
(after I got done with the Rampage)

I borrowed one from a member here. Jeff loaned it to me for a year lol. That's how I built my Avenger

JD here, can't remember which one but it has the big pins. I pull it manually with 4130- 1.625 tubes, and have no problem. MOUNT IT SOLID and don't forget the degree wheel. Not to hard to bend back if you go to far. READ their instructions.

This die tip can save few bucks
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46937

Thanks, Hessu. Good to know, will save some big bucks.

I have a JD2 bender also. I ordered all my stuff on eBay. No real discounts on any of it, but the dies can be found in stock on there.

If you are new to bending, look at the www.pirate4x4.com site for tips on bending. It will save you a lot of time, and wasted material.

Jeff

I did that trick on a couple of sizes.. I actually stacked 2
tubes into each other to get a smaller size tube in.... one thing
that guys need to know... lube the dies with grease so it will
slide
EDIT
This is another tool you will need when bending for the
rotation

What is that called Mike? I NEED one. What I have done has worked, but that is a must have.

Jeff

its just a inclineometer... any place that sells bending
equipment has them... put it on the tube and while its
still
in the bend(just back off the spring back then zero it..
then move the tube to the next bend location and rotate
the tube to what you what... like on a main hoop it will
be zero the whole time

I usually just use a digital level for doing main hoops to keep them from twisting, but that tool would be perfect when you want to have twist, like the A pillar bars. I have it saved in my eBay searches now.

Thanks for posting that.

For the money, the JD2 is hard to beat. We used one for years and it's very repeatable. DO pay the extra for hydraulics. The hand bender will kill you. Want to step up to a really "nice" top of the line bender, look into a "Tube Shark". This is a really good bender for repeatable if you are building multiples of anything. Probably too costly for one time car bender, but it is a really nice one. Love mine............BUT a JD2 is a grand or so with one set of dies and a Tube Shark is 3K. If you go JD2, opt for the 180 dies

I bent my first moly chassis without the hyd unit...
took me about 1 hour per bend... damn near killed me
using that ratchet type set up.. but lucky it was a
altered for my brother.... made him come over and help
pull on the arm... as soon as we got done with one side
I ordered the air over hyd unit

One other big advantage to putting hydraulics on it. Our machine is mounted on a portable stand with wheels. The base is wide and the heavy motor and tank are mounted low. The thing is dead stable, even with a long piece hanging from it. Not using it? Roll it out of the way instead of having it bolted down in the way. Depending on what you are doing, you need plenty of clear space around the machine. Being moveable is a big advantage. Plus, we can pull a 90 in 1.675x.083 4130 in about 20 seconds if you're in a hurry.

Try trick tools. We got ours there.
http://www.trick-tools.com/

2 big advantages of Hydraulics is you can keep it mobile and the bender its self can rotate rather than swinging a 20' stick of tubing across the shop! 2nd one is it is much easier to sneak up on perfect bend say matching a protractor. When doing it manually you end up bending too far most of the time trying to judge the spring back...

Yes you did and thank you!
Matt

Y'all are wimps if the hand bending gets to ya, get to the gym and beef up.

stay away from the cheap crap, Pro tools makes an American made high quality piece. Can add hydraulic if you want
http://shop.pro-tools.com/products/manual-tube-and-pipe-bender-105-heavy-duty-package
I bought one a few years back and have barely used it. I have like 5 short radius 180* dies. I think from 1" up most have never been used plus a heavy duty tubing notcher. even have a chassis jig. PM me if you are interested, I'll make you a deal.

Just saw a video on the hydraulic setup. Man, that's nice. But, for now, I'm going to have to muscle it. Need the exercise, anyway. I'm probably the only person in my neighborhood that doesn't have a riding lawn mower. If for some strange reason, word gets out and everyone with a Stang or Camaro shows up at my door for a rollbar, I'll bite the bullet at that time. I'm looking forward to custom building my own cage, though. This has become a very cool project for me. Thanks, everyone.

Was it you I sold it to?.... built anything yet

A couple other things you will need is a nice tubing
notcher and I like a oscillating pedistal drum sander
to tweak in your cuts... those things make life easier
and dont buy cheap hole saws... on moly it just tears
the teeth off in one cut... JD also has notchers ....
when it comes to welding any joint.... sand both parts
first.. even before you tack them

http://www.trick-tools.com/Tube_Pipe_Bending_125
Got all the toys to go with Tube bending

when it comes to welding any joint.... sand both parts
first.. even before you tack them

Way ahead of you, Mr P. First I wash and rinse the tubing, then I sand both components. Makes for a nice clean weld. Figured that out on the cross braces for the frame.

You will wish you had the hydraulic after ONE bend

You will wish you had the hydraulic after ONE bend

Yeah. You're probably right. It will give me something else to strive for.

Thank you! Looks like a fair price also.

I've done 3 cages with my bender, all by hand. It's not THAT bad. A workout? Yes. End of the world? No. Now if you were say bending .120 wall CM, THAT is a pain... But it's not needed.

Agree, and for my entire cage I had 10 bends, not a one at 90, 4 maybe 15 degrees, everything else was straight pipe. FC cage would have a few more, but there is a lot of time between bending,fitting and tacking the pipe so you can "rest up". Its not like you're standing there bending all day long.

What did you do for the main hoop.. those are usually in
the 90* range
EDIT
As said already... if you arm strong it.. you have
to mount the bender... with hyd it can be on wheels
since the load is all applied in the bender

Nope collecting dust will all the other stuff in the garage.
Being a busy year. I'll be dead before I get anything automotive done!!!
Matt

The main thing about the hydraulics has already been mentioned. It's not that it is THAT hard to bend mild steel.........it's just a pain in the balls to do it by hand. First, the bender has to be mounted and mounted VERY well, with a LOT of room around it. How much room? Enough to swing a 15ft stick of tubing to bend a main hoop. So how big is your shop and where are you going to permanently mount this bender that has enough room to bend a main hoop. Secondly, on the hand side you also need a bit of room, because the handle you pull is pretty long. Point is you need a big open area for a manual bender

Can not disagree with you on the space part Monte. I forget my work shop is 30x46 and only has one car in it. Main hoops do take up plenty of real estate when bending them. For me I can't justify spending the $600-700 to convert my bender to Hydraulic when all my stuff is bent.

But the OP is starting from scratch. So it's $395 vs $795. So yes that's a $400 dollar difference, but in the grand scheme of things is peanuts. Just one cage or bar for a buddy and it's paid for. Eat baloney for a month and buy the hydraulic the first time.

I understand budgets, I really do.........but lets be real here. You are getting ready to get started on a back half, big tire RACE car and $400 is a make or break deal?........maybe you should re-evaluate what you are getting ready to do.

I liken this to guys who build 40K motors and put steel rods in them, because they can't "afford" to put $1000 worth of alum rods in it every 150 runs or so.

For anything that needs to be bolted down securely but can't always be in the way, get some flush mount anchors. Many different sizes available, accept standard hardware and when you're done simply unbolt whatever it is and move it out of the way. Nothing sticks up above the slab. You can put plugs in 'em when not in use to keep crap out or just blow 'em out w/air

If you are going to build a simple, plain jane bar or cage that looks like one of the kits they sell and has few bends, then a manual machine will work - after you clear an area in the shop, drill holes in your floor, get the thing mounted and then unbolt it when you are done and throw it in the corner so you can use the space. But if you are going to do more than one, do it to make money, want to do something custom that fits the car nice and doesn't look like a kit and don't have people hanging around to help support the material in the machine and pull the lever around, spend the money.

I have an electric over hydraulic system with a controllable valve on mine that can be used to run the ram very slow to creep up on an angle on something where the fit is critical or run it wide open and pull a 90 in large diameter 4130 in a matter of seconds. It's worth WAY more to me than it cost.

Good sound advice there!
Plus what's your time worth to you?
Faster is not always better but being physically tired while trying to work can't be good either!
Matt

I would buy one in a heart beat if I had more cages to build, but instead I just borrow one in the meantime.

If you are going to build a simple, plain jane bar or cage that looks like one of the kits they sell and has few bends, then a manual machine will work - after you clear an area in the shop, drill holes in your floor, get the thing mounted and then unbolt it when you are done and throw it in the corner so you can use the space. But if you are going to do more than one, do it to make money, want to do something custom that fits the car nice and doesn't look like a kit and don't have people hanging around to help support the material in the machine and pull the lever around, spend the money.


So, only a hydraulic bender will make that custom cage huh, get real dude, I have a 10 X 15 ft area and my bender is clamped in the vise, with braces, on my custom heavy duty bench (made from a 3x10 piece of bowling alley) attached to wall, easy up and down to store in a small place, not a large contraption that needs to be rolled around taking up space. It was well thought out before I bent my first piece, from the space I needed to knowing the leverage I needed to bend comfortably. If you're tired out after one bend, find some other hobby or take it to someone, it's called "work"for a reason. My bender plus the one die cost $795 because I got the heavy duty one. I'm 67 and when I get so I can't pick up heads, blocks, bend pipe or work then I'll quit.

I really appreciate everyones input. And each one of you have extremely valid points. Here's my take. I've never bent up a cage before. The initial investment plus tubing won't cost much more than a preformed, off-the-shelf cage kit. Sorry, but yes, the money is starting to get a little tight. That doesn't mean that circumstances won't change down the road. A hydraulic conversion kit will still be available as an add on if I find it too difficult or time consuming to manually bend bars. It would be great if word gets out, and I get so busy that I have no choice but to buy a hydraulic kit. But I don't feel like I am in such a bad starting point with the quality of bender options available in todays market. I promise that I will keep everyone posted and give credit where it is due.

Are you building a full tube chassis or just
a cage.. were you thinking of a funny car cage
and is it going to be mild or moly... good luck
either way

OK, we get it, your a he-man and like to show off your muscles and work hard for no reason. What if the OP doesn't have a heavy enough bench and a vice to anchor his bender down. He is going to have to build one, or drill holes in the floor to anchor the stand, that will also have to buy to mount the bender to. Either of these will take time and money, as he will likely have to buy materials to build a bench or maybe buy a large vice. My TIME is worth a lot to me and I chose to work smarter, not harder.

I have built a many a car with a hand bender, but it ain't no damn fun. Plus you nearly always need help or fab up some stuff to help you hold the tubing level while you step over and start pulling the lever and moving the pin. Can you do it.......sure can. Can also cut a 8" tree with an ax.....I choose to use a chainsaw

Mr P: Planning on putting a 12 point C/M cage on top of my frame. Will probably add a funny car cage to cert to 7.50's. By then, I hope to have the hydraulic setup.
Monte: I appreciate the concerns and inputs. Yes, I'm starting smalltime, but plan on growing as my desires and demands increase. I can't honestly say how hard or easy this is going to be. But I'm not afraid to try and I will figure it out soon enough. I've built engines in my bedroom, transmissions on the kitchen table. I backhalved my car while still on the trailer. I built the whole frame and set up the body to be bolt on with no physical help at all. You just got done saying you've built plenty of cars with a hand bender. Let me have this experience, I'm sure I will enjoy it, regardless of effort needed.

If that works for you, that's great. I thought my machine out too. It takes up a 26"x26" footprint on the floor, everything. Plug it into 220, flip the switch and bend pipe. It helps me to make nice things without struggling, just like everything else in the shop that I plug into an electrical outlet or an air hose. Although I enjoy it, it's not really a hobby. There has to be some efficiency to the process. I just thought someone might benefit from my opinions, experiences and recommendations. They can do what they like with that information, dude.

You can always add hydraulics to it later. Get the bender and get to it. I know the road your headed down, it's fun and more rewarding knowing you built it from the ground up.

To Monte and CMcALLISTER, opinions are like butts everyone has one. Just because you do something one way don't make it right, so excuse me if I don't follow your dumb a$$ advice. sgcuda do it your way and to he!! with these self righteous know it alls, you're on the right track.

That's a little harsh on the call outs, and really didn't need to be said, valid or not. I think we all here are capable of coming to any of that conclusion on own.

I intentionally did not quote to facilitate you possibly rethinking the wording, if you are open to taking a hint.

Maybe to harsh, but I'm getting tired of the put down from some of these self-proclaimed "expert" members where they have to be right and you're wrong. The only reason I put my two cents in is to help the newer guys with the real-life experiences I've learned over the years.

Cuda.......The point you kept making was you were less than a man if you couldn't pull a manual bender, were out of shape, or lazy and I believe the word you used was "wimps". Also said the suggestion of a hydraulic is dumbazz advice. So YOU started the back and forth........ So some of us were passing along OUR experience. As stated, I bent a many cage with a manual bender......BUT as I also stated, it has to be VERY well mounted, you need a good bit of room, usually need help, it's slow, not as accurate and a bunch of other things, that make it not the BEST way to do it. If the OP has never bent tubing, he doesn't know any of that. Our first shop was so small, we had to push the car out, or mount the bender outside, as there wasn't room for both. That's rough when cold or raining. I didn't know that would be the case and I wished somebody had told ME before I bought my first bender and would have saved and got the hydraulic the first time. But I didn't have the option of getting on the net and asking others, had to figure it out

Question for you............do you cut your tubing with a chop saw or a hacksaw? If you have a chop saw, why? Can't it be just as well done with a hacksaw, only requiring more "work" which you seem to be such a fan of. Do you use "power" tools at all? If so, why?...........does this seem silly? Same as your arguments against us for suggesting hydraulic. Anything can be done manually, but why is suggesting the easier way bad or dumba$$ advice?.......Willie Rells used to fill tubing with sand, heat with a torch and hand bend between posts welded on a table. That's the way he built Pro-Stocks............maybe the OP should do it that way

Yeah, I bought a manual jd bender in the 90s. I bent my hoop with it, then adapted a porta power. That worked only slightly better.
The bender evolved over the years and is now portable, and almost automated. It has adjustable limit switches with electric over hydraulic controls, and can repeat dead nuts on.
I would not want to use the manual version anymore, and didn't after one hoop.

Dude is excited to get building, that is the biggest thing that matters. Who cares how he gets there but that he is. He might become Johnny Atlas in the process. Having a mobile hydro bender might be where he ends up,but that just means he is streamlining his operation, not a sissy.

Since the main hoop is the first thing you bend
you will figure out right away if you want the
hyd unit or not... plus those are the biggest bends
(degrees) in most cars... also what radius will you
buy... MOST of my bends I used a 6" and a few 4" but
very few.... the biggest thing on bending is where the
tangent is when you start the bend.. if you screw up
a bit early in the bend you can move it... so check each
bend after you start to make sure its right... when I
was working in the exhaust lab I learned a ton bending
every day.. 35 years of that stuff(along with fuel lines)
since the lab was fuel & exhaust.... have fun with it
and take your time... also... I would rather sneak up
on a bend then over bending.. yes you can bend it back a
few degrees but it can be a PITA.. specially moly
EDIT
For a 7.50 cert. buy the SFI cert book.. I think
its $35

Mr P. Already got the SFI book. Frame is done to spec for 7.50. I've been watching several youtube videos on bending techniques, including how to determine material length in a bend and making some cheater bars for measuring out between bends. Just like anything else, practice is key. I already have an idea of how many times I am going to redo my door bars to fit right due to multiple angles on a 3D plane. I might make some test ones from pipe from Lowes, before I commit to chrome moly.

Anyone have any experience using a http://www.cagegage.com/ i think two of these would make life easier

Moparts has became a joke in the last few years ...bashing beating crying ..but we all try to fly the flag..mopar has dropped the flag but yet most 40yr vets still live on ..I give you a heart felt cause if you're brand don't support you who will..I love mopar but I will never give in to the 3 times more price 2 yr wait deal..I'll fly the flag in the body but if things happen to the motor I'm done..see you in the lost lane lone..guys can't even agree on tools ..tool thread gets more hits then how to build what to build how to do what to do ..but you old guys want young guys to take over hell we can't get a answer on stuff but a thread like this all yall got something say..I'm 44 still learning and trying to enjoy..family self employed going to a divorce right now and yall more interesting then that is lol .

Toad if you take a piece of 2 foot pipe and bend it 90 it works as a reference and gives you an idea of where to start the bend. Then you just copy the bar for the other side.

Your 1st bend I like to put a mark on the die as the start point of the bend. That mark lay'd out on your 90 will give you a way to measure for the whole project. .

I made up something like that.. never used
that piece

Thanks FastmOp thats sound advice early in my electrical apprenticeship i bent miles of conduit and now i dont run much conduit but when I do I always seam to mess the first piece up till i get my starting point of my bends figured and take up accounted for.

I did the same thing with the 90* bend... works
well... just make sure which end you start with...
the live end or the dead end

I use a 90* bend piece all the time. The pirate4x4 site talks all about this.

I use a piece of 1/4" solid about 5ft long as a template for the real thing.

I have an assortment of test bends in sizes larger than 1". 90s, 45s and 30s with start of bend and length of bend marked on it and a couple inches of straight left on each side of the bend. There's always pieces of drop or mistakes around that they can made from. Helps to plan hoops and other pieces to get the fit I want. I don't think Loews or anyplace like that sell what you want to use. Pipe and tubing are two different things, both size and material wise.

Cage Gage looks like a nice tool. I've always just used a protractor. I have a variety of those in different sizes and configurations. Typically I'll pull it to within a degree or 2, check it and then just touch it up to get it exactly where I want it. Might take a couple of test fits but that's better than trying to pull a few degrees out of 1.625 4130.

Typically I'll pull it to within a degree or 2, check it and then just touch it up to get it exactly where I want it. Might take a couple of test fits but that's better than trying to pull a few degrees out of 1.625 4130.

That sounds like the safest bet. I don't see myself taking some bend out of C/M. That stuff is pretty stout.
What do you guys use for hole saw blades when making notches? I tried cutting some C/M with my sawzall using DeWalt blades. Killed 3 new blades within seconds and barely touched the tubing. Ended up using a cutting wheel on my 4" grinder to cut the tubing. Normally cut to length with my chop saw, fishmouthed on my bench grinder.

Small tubing benders have hash marks. When you bend tubing like I do everyday the hashes become second nature. That said it's very easy to take a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and put some hashes on your tubing bender for cages as well. All it takes is to bend a couple pieces of scrap to determine left start, right start and center, then transfer those marks to your die and mark the spots. You can buy all kinds of tools, but really all you need is a protractor and a level. When visualizing and measuring for hoop, focus on where center of tubing will be, be sure and leave yourself outside room and you will be fine. Complex bends like windshield bars look tough, but really aren't. Just use the protractor to figure the angle, roll it to that angle in die and have at it

Any decent bi-metal hole saw will work. But they won't last forever in 4130. Milwaukee, Lenox, Blu-Mol. Chinese stuff is useless. I use a variable speed 1/2 drill that maxes at 600 RPM. Speed and rate of feed is the trick, especially at angles that are not 90. If you are using too much pressure when the saw breaks through the wall of the tube, it will snag and clean the teeth off, especially when you get around to a 30 or 45 degree cut. Just let the saw cut, back off on the pressure, especially in the middle part of the cut where you're just in the thin tubing wall. A saw with 1 or 2 teeth off of it will still cut if you are using light pressure. Takes practice.

Sawzall instead of a chop saw? Milwaukee or Lenox, maybe 18 or 24 TPI. Buy several packs, they don't last forever in 4130.

Thanks for the tips/advice. I should probably be writing all of this down in a book, but then, I would probably not be able to find the book the day I start all of this.
Monte: The angles I'm referring to is not only the downward bends but also allowing for going from the narrow roof area, to the wider area at dashboard level, then slightly narrower down at the frame. Maybe I'll just make it perpendicular from dash level to frame. I can see where a halo bar would allow for easier tube construction, now. But I like the full door bar design better.
CMcAllister: I used the Sawzall on some tubing that was already welded in place. Didn't work at all. Was using DeWalt 18T bimetal blades. Tooth the teeth off faster than I could change the blades. That's why I was asking about the holesaw. I might have attacked the tubing with too fast a rate of speed, like you mentioned. Will try some practice cuts with some 24T blades.

I used Milwaukee hole saws in my notcher..
also for degrees I got this big yellow protractor
from HF... fit perfect on the center and when the
tube started to bend I would zero it then

That's what it looks like! !!!

For a test pattern I use electrical conduit. Very cheap and easy to bend/test fit in the car if you have odd /complex shapes.
On symmetrical parts like a hoop, start at the center and move out.
If you are ever using seamed tubing in your bender, put the seam on the center of the inside radius.
Use one piece hole saws. Hole saws with separate mandrels wiggle and distort and will not last long.
I use hole saws in my milling machine for notching tubing. If you have that luxury, try using it. You can use the same hole saws for what seems like forever, because with solid mounting, and auto feed, the hole saws don't take a beating.

The bends you are talking about are not tough. First you need to know how much bend you need......that's easy and then you need to see how much to roll it out. You figure the roll out by putting a protractor on a pillar and see how much it angles out. So lets say from vertical your A-pillar is laid out 10* at the bottom. You roll the tubing in the bender 10* and make next bend, not hard.

But let me save you some time on the windshield bars. Don't worry about going from main hoop all the way to floor. Go to a dash bar and make the a pillar bars two pieces

LOL... I assume you havent even assembled it yet

No but I'm thinking I should this weekend to see how it works.
Stay tuned I may need you advice!. Lol
Matt

I got involved in some upgrades to a homebuilt cage a number of years ago, was supposed to be 4130 and had been certified as such, and it was an older car then. The tubing in that car was unbelievably hard and I had the same issue. Was terrible to work on. Don't know what it was, but it wasn't Cond "N" 4130.

This is one of the better threads in awhile! Thanks for sharing ideas and to others thanks for entertaining me.

I too have a JD2 bender mounted on a square tube drop in receiver that we use for a number of other tools also. Just another mounting idea.

I am a electrician and bend alot of conduit. Most of the time with a Greenlee 882 hyd. bender, I found that Mittlers shoes also fit the 882 bender and make very nice bends in thin moly tube, with no drama.

So, are you saying I can just use a couple of uprights from the frame to the dash level, have a dash cross brace, and then attach from the main hoop to the cross brace in line with the uprights? Is that legal? Never thought of that. Would you have a pic of this setup for clarification? Thanks, Monte.

Just A Dart. That's another great idea. I can weld up a mounting perch on the receiver of my truck. Wouldn't have to drill holes in the garage floor or worry about having enough room. Just have to make sure I don't do what my kid did to my truck with the couch that didn't quite fit in the bed. Ya-da, ya-da, ya-da... I can get a new rear sliding window for $250 installed.

The Fabricator series on You Tube is very helpful, the guy lays things out clearly and breaks it down well. I've been seriously thinking about getting a bender for myself and since need and finances are a ways off, I'll be soaking up as much as I can and ignore the

Skeptic: That's the videos I've been watching. I like his ideas for the cheater tubes used for measuring.

Of course it's legal. There is nothing that says the A-pillar bars have to be one piece from main hoop, down by dash and to floor, with dash bar welded between those. Some do it that way, some run halo bars, just depends on the car. What I have done on some cars with stock firewalls, is actually weld the dash bar to the back of firewall and in between plates in the front jamb area. This gets the dash bar forward and out of the way. The lower supports weld to bottom of dash bar and can go straight down, angle back, just wherever they need to. Then the A-pillar bar comes from hoop, down through dash and lands on dash bar. Eliminates some bends and makes it much easier.........Hard to tell, but pic below MAY be done like that. If not, just imagine this dash bar welded in first and the others coming to it. This way you put the dash bar wherever you WANT it, not where it is convenient to weld it between bars when done the other way

you guys would laugh yourselves silly at my bender. due to my particular circumstances, and since i have modest fab skills, i built my bender using a couple of those cheapy plans you see offered in different places. after studying those plans and looking at several pro benders both in person and picture form, it took me a couple of months to come up with a workable tool that fit my needs and did a great job. i made a 1 3/4" and a 1 5/8" set of dies as well. the bends came out perfect with no dimples or crush, and that surprised me because i had to guess on the clearances needed to free the tube after bending. i only had one project to do [my 33 dodge humpback panel] and it was just mild steel, so it worked as intended and wasn't that hard to use even with just a 16ton, long ram bottle jack as power. since that time, i experimented with adapting my dies to smaller diameter tube sizes using the spacer method shown, and that worked well also. at my age, i won't be building cages for a living, although from time to time, this contraption is broke out to make a couple of pickup push bars and a riding tractor head bar. worked good for those projects as well. a "muscle" machine might be ok for a one time project, but if a guy was thinking to bend tube on a regular basis, a "power adder" supplement would be the only way to fly, as well as several of other previously mentioned must have features.

Photo of the dash bar/A pillar bar area that was asked about. Legal as long as proper tube sizes are used. This is addressed in Note V.8 in the SFI 25.4 spec if that's the one you have.

Thanks for the link!
Very helpful!

Quicktree gave me a great deal on his Pro-Tool tubing bender. Has 5 dies from 1" up to 1 3/4", software and a tubing notcher. Really top notch looking stuff and Made in USA. Now to set it up and start playing. Thanks again, Quicktree.

OK. What do you guys use for lube? Is there some equivalent that I can get at Lowes or Napa instead of ordering from Pro-Tools?

I just used cheap wheel bearing grease with a
brush

Thanks, Mr P. That's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure. The old stuff on the dies seems pretty slick and tacky. Seems like it would be a PITA for cleanup.

I had a 16" length of 1 5/8" C/M floating around. Marked it off in 1" intervals. Put it in the bender. It was a pretty good amount of effort, but nothing terrible or unexpected. I'm guessing the high heat outside helped cause a high amount of spring back. Right at 6 degrees. I found that I need a 3 1/2" lead for bending. The V in the pic is where the bend started compared to the very front of the tube, which is what is held in place by the clamp. Also found out that 16" is not enough for a 90 degree bend. Going to land closer to 18-19" when all said and done. Cleaned the rust off of some of my old bars to try bending them for a comparison, then I found out that the majority of my Comp Engineering cage was 1 3/4" tubing. Didn't feel like cleaning any more tubing, just to bend it.

no problem, glad it will get some use. I think I bent maybe 3-4 bends with it. good luck with your build.

that's what I used, that is whats on the die, just been setting up for a while.

I hope you mean lube just the pins, instructions on my JD 32 said to never use lubricants on the forming dies groove, the tube will tend to slip backwards if used.

don't know nothing about the JD 32, I watched a friend who has bending tube for a long time he used grease on the die. mine never slipped.

The die doesn't need the grease. The support block does because the tube slides through it while bending.

the grease on the die was to keep it from rusting. but I did put a little on the groove when bending. maybe that was wrong

Can't be too wrong. You built a whole car that way.
Besides, the die doesn't do any pulling. The forward clamp pulls the tube around. The die is just there to maintain shape.

I spray with WD-40 as its pulling .

that should work, doesn't take much

With the amount of force I found that it takes to pull C/M, I don't know if I would want to use something as thin as WD-40. And I did find that a little goes a long way.

I was using air over hydraulic. It did fine with no galling. I just spray the pipe and start bending 😊

Who knows, but I'll follow my instructions., besides, grease attracts dirt and grit which will scratch the tube and die then stress risers form, then all the extra work getting that mess off of everything, affecting the weld, no thanks, I'll do without it.

I did it for 34 years.. grease... wipe most off
with paper towel... if you feel anything I checked
with my fingers

No grease here. I do wipe the tube down to remove any dirt, grit, etc. And I pay attention to the dies and polish them as needed. Dirt, metal grit will scratch and damage the die and the tube.

I have never used any lube on a bender either