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A body circuit board #2111161
07/16/16 02:44 PM
07/16/16 02:44 PM
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Shelby, Ohio
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2abodymcodes Offline OP
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2abodymcodes  Offline OP
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Are there any suppliers that sell new dash circuit boards for a 69 barracuda?

cuda dash 001.JPG
Last edited by 2abodymcodes; 07/16/16 02:54 PM.
Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111166
07/16/16 02:55 PM
07/16/16 02:55 PM
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Reno, Nevada
NV69B7RR Offline
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Classic Industries does as well as other suppliers. I believe they are the same as the Duster/ Demon rally dash ones. If you shop around you can probably find them cheaper, but heres a link to Classic Industries:

http://www.classicindustries.com/shop/mopar/parts/dash-components/printed-circuits/

Last edited by NV69B7RR; 07/16/16 03:00 PM.
Re: A body circuit board [Re: NV69B7RR] #2111177
07/16/16 03:11 PM
07/16/16 03:11 PM
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Shelby, Ohio
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2abodymcodes Offline OP
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thanks. I just looked and sew where year one sells them also. should of looked before I posted.

Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111435
07/16/16 11:15 PM
07/16/16 11:15 PM
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autoxcuda Offline
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Looks to be nothing wrong with that one except the mission pin. It can be fixed. The pins are the fault with those. The rest is durable.

Dart clusters have the same pins. You can solder one back on. I've seen somewhere online were someone fixed them and make them stronger. Maybe adding and pin through the hollow hole?? I can't remember.

I'd rather have a good fixed original than taking chances with a repro.

Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111463
07/17/16 12:09 AM
07/17/16 12:09 AM
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autoxcuda Offline
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Here's one tip for repair:

Untitled.jpg
Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111486
07/17/16 12:51 AM
07/17/16 12:51 AM
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autoxcuda Offline
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Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111705
07/17/16 12:40 PM
07/17/16 12:40 PM
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jbc426 Offline
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I've repaired a set and bought an aftermarket set, which I have installed just the other day during a complete dash upgrade and A/C install. Both with good results. The repaired set has lasted for 10+ years, and is still good.

If you fix the set you have pictured, make sure to re-solder the remaining pins to help avoid problems in the future. The repair is not difficult, but the pins must be positioned carefully.

The replacement set I got from Premiumdashdecals.com are very nice quality with a small extra amount of solder at the base of the pins, which makes them a little more robust than the way the factory did it.

Last edited by jbc426; 07/17/16 01:03 PM.

1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111729
07/17/16 01:10 PM
07/17/16 01:10 PM
Joined: Feb 2012
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1970A66 Offline
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That board can definitely be repaired if you can find a replacement pin.

You need someone experienced with soldering ideally.

The trick to making a good repair is cleaning/preparation.
Those pins and the copper runs have oxidized and must be cleaned really good (i.e. shiny metal) in order for solder to flow well.

I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Scratch-Brush-Fiberglass-Colors-vary/dp/B0019V18D2

This brush has fine fiberglass bristles similar to a small paint brush and thus can get into all nooks/crannies. It leaves the surface clean and shiny allowing solder to flow really good making a strong mechanical/electrical connection.
A brass brush is is too big and course and won't work as effectively.

Re: A body circuit board [Re: 2abodymcodes] #2111885
07/17/16 04:47 PM
07/17/16 04:47 PM
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So Cal
Sinitro Offline
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Replacement PCBs are available from multiple suppliers including Charger Specialties...

But...
Repairing the pin is straight forward and not difficult, also I would recommend that when the PCB is out, U should resolder carefully the base of each pin.. Over time they can weaken and and break loose when removing the connector socket. Just use a low wattage pencil soldering iron (<50W) and the solder will flow easily once the joint is heated..


Just my $0.02... wink







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