The guy that was going to set up my carrier can`t so I may just tackle it myself. After talkin to Cab he explained a pinion checker tool should be used but is there another way a guy like me could get the same results?

Thumper RA Tech sells pinion depth checkers that are less than 300 bucks, they sit between on the pinion head and you measure against the carrier bores a certain way to check depth, using the depth indicator on a pair of veneer calipers.

I just bought one to use on my 8 3/4. I'm sure it won't be perfect, but will give you a good start, then adjust based on the pattern. People with the high dollar mics say they often need to adjust based on the pattern anyway, as the depth from the manufacturer isn't quite perfect. You can buy the tool on summit and they're application specific. Reviews on them have been pretty good.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-10007/overview/

Dom do you have access to set of depth mics? I thought I read on another post that your center is new. That makes it more difficult without the proper tools to measure pinion depth. I wish you were closer. I'd show you how to do it, or let you borrow the tools. If it was a used center ( a gear in it already) you could compare depth markings and do the math to shim the new set. I always use that as a guide then move pinion for a the best pattern I can get. Wish I could help more I feel like I owe you that

You can go the trial and error method...
Using the old pinion depth shim assemble the unit.
Set the backlash to the indicated amount check the match. Move the pinion depth according to the pattern left. Remember to add some type of drag to the pinion while rotating to set the pattern.

Thankxx guys not sure yet what I`ll do but appreciate the input........

I don`t want to tear apart the old unit as it`s for sale.......

Have Cass send you a reemed pinion bearing that will slide on and off. If you have that, an assortment of shims and yellow gear marking compound, and a dial indicator to verify backlash, you have all you should need.

EDIT: Forgot you also need a spanner tool. I have one I'd be happy to lend you if needed, Dom. Let me know.

I have a checker but don't usually use it. Start with the original shim. Check the pattern. Best tutorial I've seen is here. Click and scroll down to general instructions.
https://www.yukongear.com/manuals.aspx
Doug

I have depth checkers but rarely bother to use them. They will usually get you close, but normally the shim pack will need to be adjusted some to get the pattern dead nuts. If you are replacing gears, start with the one that came out. On a new assembly, chose an initial shim pack thickness to start according to what rear is being set up and go from there. The pattern will determine where to go with it.

Figured I could get a bearing locally and hone it out but Cab explained and I read that there`s a small margin of error .+004 -001 in terms of the pinion location to start w/then you shoot for the pattern.........

Autozone has pinion bearings in stock that I can butcher for $7.90 then after the depth and pattern are good, then I need to tighten the pinion nut(me)and check preload on the pinion and measure how many in. lbs to turn it correct?

I use the same brand honed pinion bearings that I use when putting them together.

Pinion preload is about the last thing I check. Get a rough set up, get your pattern, then finalize pinion preload. If you have to change depth shims, your preload shim pack will change a little.

You said $300 bucks that thing`s 25 and change and if it helps, it may be a new tool in my box.........

The Richmod gears that Cass sent me last month had a spec for pinion depth to be measured at the head-face of the gear. I started with .090 under the pinion and just checked this with a simple caliper. Measurement was within a few thousandths of spec, so I moved on to looking at the pattern and fine-tuning that with the side adjusters.

I have had the depth tool and after a while I quit using them, its easier for me to just set it up how I know and then adjust for the pattern, I make setup bearings for the ones that have shims behind them, or setup races for those in the case. I always start with a good known pinion shim dimension, if you look online Im sure there is a chart handy. then set pinion preload by feel without shims or crush washer, smack lightly the pinion back and forth to set races and bearings and put carrier in, set backlash, I use .006 for most some looser but I use the same so patterns will not be affected differently. Adjust pinion depth to center pattern in gear face to flank, heel to toe is not really adjustable as it is how the gear is made and run in. Then after set up go back and set pinion preload with a inch pounds wrench or I do it by feel and shim accordingly or use the crush washer. If using crush washer I locktite the pinion nut.

If you set it at zero backlash and tighten the opposing adjuster you will preload the carrier and set the back lash at the same time. I made a spanner from an 1 1/2'x3/4" angle piece of steel. Drilled two 1/4" holes at the correct spread for the adjuster holes. Two 1/4" bolts and nuts and your all set. The bolts will fit in the adjuster holes.
Doug

I also reamed a pinion bearing to slide on and off and use that method most of the time. But dont forget after you get it right to slide the test bearing off and then press the right new bearing on. Ron

Although this sounds a bit tricky I HOPE I can get it right and not fubar it.........lol! So just one pinion set up bearing?

Yep, the big one against the pinion gear.

I didn't read all the reply's, I made my own checker in a lathe. If you've got access to one or a friend that has one, (lathe) turn one out. Dave

Slowly figuring this out thankxx 2 u guys and will start on it hopefully soon here gettin carb busy........... Thankxxx guys