Hi does anybody have any pictures of what they've done to the drag link or let me know in detail what I need to do on a abody

You install the engine then install the drag link through the hole in the pan !!!

Oh funny

Nothing but install it. On a 70 Duster, it fit as is.

It wasn't remotely close to fitting with my 318 in my 71 Duster. It would pass through obviously, but wouldn't come close to bolting up.
The drag link needs to be " straightened" for it to fit, and stay the same length as stock, obviously.
I am currently out of the country in the Maldives, but I had a certified welder who is a friend of mine " fix it", turned out perfectly and works great since he did it two years ago, including at the track.
If you like you can PM me, he would probably do yours if you like.... 60 or 70 bucks, you would just have to ship it to Michigan to get it done.

Supposedly one from a slant six car is more straight. My dad is on here (340Cuda) and he runs these pans so maybe he will see this and chime in.

Weld a straight piece across, then cut off the drop. Get plenty of penetration, it will be fine.

Is the center link upside down????

When I bought my pan used I got an aftermarket bar that went through the pan. I'll post a picture of it when I get home later. matt

Ahhhhh, maybe that's why mine fit. It was a OE slant 6 car.

On a related note: The best thing we ever did with that same Milodon pan was get rid of it! Car had the ride height of a John Deere tractor for ground clearance.

That Milodon pan was either the best HP pan or was within a couple of HP of every pan I've tested. That included a couple of box pans with kickouts and all the whiz bang crap. The really sad thing is that Milodon SS pan was better at the track than every other pan I tried. Better oil pressure at the leave, better oil pressure in high gear and better in the shut down. The wet sump, box style pans were hoorible. I spent more time modifying them that they were worth.

So my DD is getting the SS pan.

Yes, at least on our car (69 Cuda small block) it has to be a V-8 center link also install the right direction. Don't ask me how I know.
Bill

Take your existing centerlink, weld up the large tapers a little to come close to the small diameter taper opening. Ream the new taper from the opposite direction with a 7* reamer until the tie rod stud engagement depth is equal to OE. Repeat for all 4 openings. Flip the centerlink over and install. Works great!