Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
#1957099
11/24/15 03:38 PM
11/24/15 03:38 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,480
USA
Molloy
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,480
USA
|
This is on my 300 SRT8 with catalytic converter problems...
Grind flat and drill out, or are there other tricks?
Looks like it's pressed in. I suppose I could heat it up and beat on it?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Last edited by Molloy; 11/24/15 03:38 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
[Re: Molloy]
#1957125
11/24/15 04:04 PM
11/24/15 04:04 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,130
A Red State
SNK-EYZ
I Live Here
|
I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,130
A Red State
|
Can you feel if there are threads on the top side of the stud? If there are no threads, then grind it flat, drill it out and tap it to thread it. That or drill it out and use a bolt and nut (which is what most cast iron manifolds use). The stud may have been welded in place on the factory headers like that. Edit: After doing an online google search of pictures of factory SRT headers I see some with no studs in the collector end making me thing that they are removable, as in threaded in.  Grind, drill, tap is your best option.
Last edited by Sputnik; 11/24/15 04:06 PM.
Kayse can't keep up at all now. lol
|
|
|
Re: Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
[Re: SNK-EYZ]
#1957143
11/24/15 04:37 PM
11/24/15 04:37 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,668
Buford, GA
I_bleed_MOPAR
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,668
Buford, GA
|
Can you feel if there are threads on the top side of the stud? If there are no threads, then grind it flat, drill it out and tap it to thread it. That or drill it out and use a bolt and nut (which is what most cast iron manifolds use). The stud may have been welded in place on the factory headers like that. Edit: After doing an online google search of pictures of factory SRT headers I see some with no studs in the collector end making me thing that they are removable, as in threaded in. Grind, drill, tap is your best option. Looks a 'yota stud that uses a torx socket. I agree with grind, drill, and tap. Tim
'71 Charger 383/727 '17 Challenger SXT (Wifeys car  )
|
|
|
Re: Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
[Re: Molloy]
#1957451
11/25/15 01:17 AM
11/25/15 01:17 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
|
master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
|
I have never heard of an exhaust stud being pressed or welded in. It looks per picture there is not enough of the stud to get a vise grip on to it so as stated above weld a nut on it, then heat the flange and turn it out. Might as well remove the other one also, heat the flange first, grip it with some good vise grips, pipe wrench or a stud removal tool. Replace with proper studs and brass nuts.
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
|
|
|
Re: Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
[Re: Molloy]
#1957783
11/25/15 05:30 PM
11/25/15 05:30 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
|
An experienced exhaust man would blow that out with a torch and never touch the threads in the manifold. Takes about a minute including lighting the torch.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
|
|
|
Re: Broke an exhaust manifold stud on the collector end...
[Re: GomangoCuda]
#1958229
11/26/15 11:06 AM
11/26/15 11:06 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,824
MI, usa
dvw
master
|
master
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,824
MI, usa
|
An experienced exhaust man would blow that out with a torch and never touch the threads in the manifold. Takes about a minute including lighting the torch. Very true, done a ton of them. But that's not for a beginner. Doug
|
|
|
|
|
 small.jpg "Name: PS manifold stud(s) small.jpg
Views: 492
Size: 199.11 KB
ID: 217786")
