ok so last b motor broke a crank (see other posts for build) and now I have a 440 block which has been bored .030/align bored/ honed with a torque plate.The steel crank has been turned to 20/20.

I already have reconditioned iron heads (arrowhead 906 2.14/1.81) I might as well use since I've had them 12 years...

I already have a new cam/lifter set that I've had for just as long, here are the specs:

Racer Brown #STH-42
lift intake/ exhaust .520
.050 duration: intake 254 exhaust @ .008 300
lobe centerline 105 intake 111 exhaust
lobe separation 108.00
advanced 3.0

I will be re-using the six pack carbs I had on my 383 that have mods and worked flawlessly.

please give me some ideas for a build which includes the existing 4 speed and Strange s-60 w/ 4.10's and strange-trac (tru-trac)

I am not opposed to selling the finished crank and buying a rotating assembly, but not interested in more than 500 cubes since I am on a budget

I drive this car on the street as well as to and from the track for test & tube nights FOR FUN ONLY


ALL FEEDBACK GOOD AND BAD WELCOMED

The bigger C.I. motors will spin the rea tires a lot easier than the stock stroke motors will That being said I changed my low deck stroker motor in my old pump gas Duster from making 612 HP at 511 C.I. to making 727 HP at 518 C.I. over several years, it went 10.69 at 612 HP and 9.993 at 727 HP weighing 3450 lbs. with me in it through the 3 inch exhaust, using 91 octane Oregon pump swill with the air cleaners on Six paks rock with stock 440 port size heads , M.W. size ports make more power than the 440 size ports do 440 blocks have thin main webs so be real careful on your selection of parts, tune up and HP goals 505,(4.350 x4.250 stroke) 511(4.375 x 4.25 stroke) and 512 C.I.(4.380x4.250 stroke) motors rock But you can break them pretty easy in a 440 block, not so easy in a 400 block

How fast you wanna go? Call me and let's chat some more - finally back in the states for a couple of weeks.

Take the old one apart yet?

Don't include the sale of your current crank in the budget for a stroker rotating assembly , .020/.020 crank isn't going to be a big seller .

If I were you, I would get ahold of some reconditioned rods and KB hyper Pistons, and finish it off / get back on the road with what you have. Unless funds and time are not an issue, then I would build a stroker with better heads.

Exactly.

Get clear on budget and time. You go stroker, you will be starting from scratch.

Okay so I am leaning towards this kit from 440 source..440 >> 500. (4.150" stroke/6.760" rod) Approximate Bobweight: 2200-2250 Feedback?

Your current engine is All set to Go. Use that, with those 906 heads. If you go Stroker, your going to start from scratch and want better heads, and other upgrades. Just be prepared for that.

Don't they have a pump gas 512 C.I. kit with 4.25 stroke and 7.100 long BB Chevy type rods If so and it comes in a compression ratio you like buy it Lighter rods, pistons and bobweight, revvs faster and spins the tires easier AKA, go for the longer stroke with the smaller 2.200 rod journal sizes

Your choices should be based on your future plans. If you are one of us that isn't satisfied with the power you have for long, then build the short block strong enough to take a lot of upgrades. That would mean build it with a light bob weight, forged pistons, flat tops, so you can put some smaller chamber heads (Edelbrocks, SRs, etc) down the road, deep valve pockets for a lot bigger cam, aluminum or high grade steel main caps, etc. It isn't too tough to build a short block at a reasonable cost that can handle over 600 hp in a 440 or 750+ in a 400. A light rotating assembly is a very good thing. Give that a lot of consideration. These stock blocks (440)are a bit fragile and anything you can do to reduce stress is a good thing.
If you can within your budget, go with a 400 block for anything 600 hp or stronger down the road. They are much tougher than a 440 block. That 440 block has some good value, as they are getting scarce. You might be able to go low deck at a reasonable cost depending on how you do selling some of what you have. The 400 based motor will be lighter as well. That can vary, but every pound is worth something.
If you are willing to accept the power level that the current cam and heads produce are all you ever want, then go Hypereutectic pistons in the 440 block for the best economy. Be careful with the tune up (never lean, never too much timing, 9.5 max compression) and it ought to live a very long life. My car club buddy has a 440 motor like that that I originally built back in 1975! It has never had the heads or pan off and runs great to this day.

If you are serious about fun only, it would be no fun to build a 500" engine and then start breaking clutch and driveline parts. I would use the parts you have and add h-beam rods and forged flat-top pistons. now you have a shortblock that will live through missed shifts and a shot of nitrous if you so desire. I recommend Rob Nixon at Smythe Automotive for any machine or assembly work you may need.

Thats basically the kit I used to get my 493. But I agree with the others that if you go stroker you will spend more money. And if you do go the stroker way I would want better heads and cam to take advantage of the more cubes. No sense to add the cubes and then choke them some and not take advantage of the power it can make. Good luck which ever you decide. Ron

I just thought it would be cheaper to just buy the 440-500 stroker kit from 440 source $2300 free shipping and go with that.Am I reading something wrong on their website?

ANY TIME the word stroker is mentioned in this forum people bring up head flow and camshaft size. The attitude here is to build any engine to its maximum potential, as this is primarily a race page.

If you pay attention to the words being flung around you might get the opinion that it is actually harmful to the engine not to max it out. Nothing could be further than the truth.

Chuck Senatore said, in his big Mopar engine book, that one should build the biggest shortblock one can afford. I agree with his idea. Once the shortblock is built, one may not have money left over for better heads or camshaft. They are bolt-ons.

I like to remind people that 500 cubic inch Cadillac engines (4.306 x 4.31) ran just fine with heads that might have flowed 230cfm, like a 906 head, and camshafts with less than 0.500 lift and no more than 215 degrees duration at 50 lift. Olds 455s, with their smaller bores and 4.25" strokes, were in the same league. There were others, these are just examples.

The 440Source stroker kit has been used dozens of times by Board members and is a very nice way to build a big shortblock to be driven now, hopped up later. As with ANY aftermarket kit, dimensions should be checked before assembly. But all of the aftermarket stuff has been increasing quality over the years and it usually isn't necessary to make many changes to the kits the way they are delivered. Wrist pin clearances and valve guide clearances seem to be the main areas.

A larger engine will make more torque in proportion to the displacement increase. Because the engine is airflow limited, the torque peak will be at a lower engine rpm. This would be inversely proportional to the displacement increase.

The airflow-limited engine will make the same horsepower, but at a lower rpm. The torque curve will be higher until peak torque, then fall off more quickly.

You will be astonished by how strong the engine feels off the line or around town. You may have to change your driving style.

So, bottom line, build the engine you want to build. After you've driven for a while, you may want to increase head flow and/or camshaft duration, but it's up to you.

R.

thanks for the insight/advice

thank you dogdays, i think i just made my choice!

MarkZ528 call me about your drums & slicks...

Dag it feels like I've been saving money forever now....I looked at my last post about the stroker kit: 7/7/15 and still have not ordered! I had it all decided and money ready to go, hell in my mind it was already built!

finally cash in hand and ready to place a call. Moparts members please advise which company to order from? Mancini? 440 source? Indy? still sticking to a 500/505 440 based kit. i need the kit, timing chain & cover,oil pan/pickup/water pump & housing,oil pump & gaskets, as well as 6 pack intake.
just tryin to build a fun toy that will last and not break the bank!

I like and use the Summit brand 1970/71 Street Hemi and 440 6 pak oil pan and 6 pak 3/8 oil pickup in any 1966 to 1971 B and E body B or RB motors, stock strole or big stroke it is a exct replica of the stock 1970/71 6 quart (+1 for the filter)Street Hemi and 440 6 pak cars Reasonably priced and fits well also, nothing to dislike
As far as the stroker kit I would use the 440 Source or one of the others you like and trust the best I buy parts and custom build my own kits That way I get exactly what I want, longer rods, lighter weight pistons and the compression ratio I want with my heads