Guys I'm behind the 8-ball this month.

I picked up an 87 CSX to teach the kids auto-crossing last month and it needed WAY more work than the former owner let on. Most of the car was a train wreck (but rust free) and it has taken most of the good part of a month to get the wiring fixed and other assorted ills.

Just imagine "everything broken" and that about covers it.

Long story short I still need to swap out a turbo, rack and pinion, alignment, windshield, inspection and plates.

The car was suppose to go to the body shop on this upcoming Monday for a quick single stage black paint job (the car has zero rust and a single ding the size of a quarter in the drivers door) but now the place is jammed up for weeks and the 25th annual Shelby national convention is only 5 weeks away.

Thinking about sanding the car down this weekend in the garage, hitting it with Summit epoxy primer, blocking it and then hitting it with Summit Hot Rod black satin paint.

Mind you I have not painted with a gun in 20 years and even then didn't know what the heck I was doing.

Crazy plan or not? The car isn't worth a pile of money so the fact it is hot rod stain black instead of gloss black doesn't bother me. I think it would be kinda cool and different than the other 750 1987 CSX made that year.

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated, I'm running out of time.

Gary

use the roller method and just do a rustoleum job on it. you can always sand it off and repaint later. but there will be way less masking, over spray, etc with using a roller.

Because of it's intended use, I don't think I would bother painting it. But, that's just me!

Go with your plan of the summit paint. Don't roll paint on it. the last thing you want to be is the laughing stock of the autocross. if you have come this far take the extra step and do the paint your self. no matter how long its been it will look way better than a roller!!.

Good Luck

Epoxy primer is not intended to be block sanded. You can wet sand it with 400-600 wet to knock down any dust in it.

Your plan sounds pretty reasonable, and sounds like you have some previous experience. If I was doing a down and dirty paint job on that car, I would sand it down with 320 and a DA. You really need to ensure all the areas where the clear is worn or delaminated is removed back to a solid substrate. Fix any dents etc with plastic filler or glazing putty depending on depth, or your care level. You really need a 2k primer surface to cover any body work you do. Finish that out to 320 dry. At that point you can epoxy prime the entire car. If you go with black epoxy, you can run that as a satin finish itself. While not being a topcoat, it might save you some effort and cash for your timeline. If you want to finish with the hot rod black, you can shoot the epoxy and let it flash off then shoot the topcoat over it. Your choice since it will all be masked anyway.

Google rustoleum or marine paint roll on. They can look awesome, but are labor intensive since paint is very dilute and requires multiple coats and sanding. The beauty is retouching is simple. I have seen some very good ones.

See? Way out of practice and out of my depth but always game to try.



So sand, fix the one ding, 2k primer (the whole car or just that area?) sand again and then hit it with epoxy primer?

I'm tempted to hit the car with gloss black but just asking for trouble.

Since it is a track car...(and I suggest you try ChumpCar) I'd just prep it as best you can and let Maacco paint it. They have complete paint jobs for $259. You cannot beat that.

Not around here they don't. Walk in any shop like that around here and they are like sharks that won't do anything but the top of the line.

Even if you prep it? What's the top of the line run? $500? I should have my dad come help ya. He painted my brothers 79 5.0 a nice gloss black in our driveway. Car still shiny today 15 years later.

This is CT brother, try $3000

WOW.. I thought here in Md. we had it bad. They routinely have adds for 1/2 price paint jobs starting at $259. For 3k I'd have a real Pro shoot my car.
Just pull it out in the yard, sand all the clear coat off, Hit it with some primer, sand and shoot your Semi-gloss black and roll.

Actually planning on setting up plastic curtains in the big bay of the garage, that way minimize anything that gets in the paint.

Just got off the phone with a local shop, $3000-$5000 for the job even though the grill, bumper covers, door handles, mirrors, wing and trim are already off the car.

He did lower it down to $3000 after a few minutes on the phone.

A "local shop" does not equal MAACO or Earl Scheib. You guys are talking about two entirely different kinds of paint jobs.

R.

Let your computer fingers do the walking.....for example,

MAACO
991 Dixwell Ave.
Hamden, CT 06514
203-687-4710

$1500 quote which is better than $3000 but not $259

Not sure I'd feel comfortable with a shop an hour and a half out from home with a few unobtainable Shelby parts not to mention Dixwell Ave is a very bad section of town.

quick and easy and cheap hit it w a fresh coat of clear and it will look like a million bucks.

It's a mid 80s Chrysler to be used on the track. Rattle can, wet sand, done. Or scratch, spray, sand, done. Heck, forget the primer! Scuff and paint!

I'd like it to be done at last half way right. The primer and paint from Summit isn't that expensive and a no rot car of this vintage is rather unusual.

PlastiDip the car!

I was going to do the roller thing on the Imperial but it's getting PlastiDip instead. It's far less work and expense.





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