got it, thanks.

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In the for sale section you just "reply" to the last post. Put your own title in it, though.
R.

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I'll probably be flogged for this, but 318's are probably more common in Europe, just as they are here on this side of the pond. A cheap (free?) 318 with a stroker crank installed is 390 cubic inches, no slouch & should rev up quickly just like a 340. And it can be dressed like a 340. Given the rarity of the car and it's collector value, you should long term look at finding a correct '71 340.

I don't get all the " the 340 is much more expensive, so build a 360 statements".

Fact is, if you look around at all, 340 blocks are easy to find and rarely more than 600-800 dollars.
Even if you find a suitable 360 block for 100 dollars, in the whole scheme of the whole motor build you have maybe 500-700 dollars more money in the 340 build( cost difference of the block)
Many times you can find a 340 short block with steel crank for not much if any more than the price I stated above for just the block.... Needing rebuilt. You pick up the quality steel crank that can take a lot of punishment and is a nice piece.
For a car like yours, for very little difference in money I would i put another 340 in it( or a stroked 340)/416.... No brainer


Edit.... Didn't notice I hadreplied to this thread months ago.... Lol

I decided to go original, that means to find correct 340. There is one 340 availabale currently close to me, it is produced in september 71 (blue painted). Was this engine used for 71 model year, or only in 72 models? Any major difference in comparison to 70-71 engine?

I think the carb and intake manifold are different between '70-71. '70 still used the square bore AVS, and '71 was the first year spread bore Thermoquad? And I think the '71 was a one year carb before an improved version came in '72? Someone check me on this, ScottSmith Harms?

The 2.02 valves being a problem like requiring bore notching and such on a 318 is something that was started many many years ago and simply is not true. As I have run 2.02 valves many times in several different 318's with no issues. Think about it all 318 340 360 LA heads have the exact same valve spacing add 2.02 intake size and 1.60 exhaust size together that is 3.620 and a 318 stock bore size is 3.910 there is no where near .290 separation between the intake and exhaust valves on any of these heads it would probably be a issue using 2.02 valves on a 273 but it never has been on a 318 and I don't see valve shrouding being a issue neither all the 2.02 valve heads I have put on a 318 have always made a major difference in power as long as you deck the head or block to keep the compression from dropping I have used new pistons many times though with valve reliefs in them because you cant run much cam with 318 stock flat tops with no valve reliefs cut in them. My

The last month of 1971 production was July 1971 so your September engine find would have been from a 1972 model year car. There were small differences between 71 & 72 340's but nothing huge or difficult to change to 71 specs when you rebuild it.

...it`s been some time since my last post. Finally I got date correct 340 from local member. Now I can move to another missing part - clutch and flywheel. Could you guys help me, what flywheel should I use? I found they sell 130 and 143 tooth, which one is correct? Would you recommend steel or aluminium (they are almost the same price). How about cluth set? They sell many different kind from $100 to $1000, any recommendation on a good one? I will keep the engine mostly stock, maybe few upgrades, but not over 400 HP.
340 is internally balanced?

For the street I recommend a steel flywheel, 10.50" 130 tooth which will fit into the stock bell housing, a 143 is an 11.00" and won't fit.

Call Wayne Brewer or Jamie Passon for a clutch, I recommend a stock style McCleod (roughly $600-$700.00 a set).

All 1968 through early 1972 340's were originally equipped with a forged steel crank and are internally balanced, later date 340's equipped with a cast crank were externally balanced.