Guys,

My rebuilt, 60-over, 440 runs great except for the fact that passenger side head gasket (8519 PT) apparently didn't seal. I tore it apart tonight and it was leaking coolant into the No. 4 cylinder, but the gasket wasn't blown. The motor has Eddy aluminum heads and only 9:1 compression.

Before I took the heads off, I checked the torque on the bolts, I didn't get any movement at 70 foot lbs. However, when I undid the bolts, they seemed to undo at varying degrees of effort, and I wonder if that was problem.

Anyway, I am ordering new gaskets and am going to try again. Does anyone have any advice? I have successfully changed head gaskets before without any problems, I am not sure what went wrong.

Thanks.

Greg

Maybe some were overtorqued, who assembled it? Did you check for overhang into the combustion chamber?

Several things we need more information on, what condition(rough, semi rough or smooth) are the surfaces on the head and block on that side? Are the head and block straight with no warpage? When you say the gasket is not blown, how about cracks in the head or cyclinder? Good luck, let us know what you find out

I assembled it. I tried to be careful and lube the bolts/shoulders/washers. I did not check for overhang.

I used some FelPro 1009's once that apparently overhung and blew.

I didn't see any evidence this one was blown, it appears it just didn't seal. Or the block is cracked, I guess could be the other option, but I had it checked first.

Hopefully I just screwed up and if I am more careful this time it will be okay.

The block was decked and the heads are brand new OOTB Eddy. I can double check those now that the motor is apart. I would hope the heads aren't cracked.

I guess I am not sure whether the surfaces are rough or smooth. The machine shop knew I was putting on aluminum heads.

I use my finger nails, when there long enough, to judge the finish on the heads and blocks, if I feel the serations from the cutter on either the block or heads it is to rough for me I have had new Cometics MLS head gaskets on a new Hemi block leak before I found out they(Cometic MLS gaskets) need a RA finish of 50 or smoother to seal IHTHs Check for cracks real good

Head bolts bottomed out?

Sheldon

Chase the block threads with a thread chaser tap & blow em out clean with the nozzle that goes all the way in to the bottom of blind holes. I dip bolt threads in 30wt eng oil then blow em off with shop air. As you know torque in multiple stages. Good visual inspection of the new gasket. yes check the head deck flatness. I'm assuming those Felpro's are Ok with alum heads, not sure but I've heard Cometics are a good choice for that app (iron block/alum heads) but wait for someone to elaborate further. EDIT Reuse (good thread visual tho)

Would you guys reuse the head bolts? Or buy new ones?

I re-use them in a stock application but I'm not sure if they are recommended with the Edelbrock heads.
I didn't mean to interrupt Cab but it just struck me when you said it took different amounts of force to back the bolts out.

Sheldon

They were the recommended Edelbrock head bolts.

At this point I will probably just pony up and buy new ones. What's another $100? Once my car makes me broke and insane, the $100 will be the least of my worries.

Those are the cheaper gaskets.Try a set of FelPro Marine gaskets.I use them with Stealth heads and no problems.I used ARP bolts on mine.Just make sure to torque in 3 stages and use lube.Rocky

Yup, very possible.

Sheldon

These aren't torque-to-yield bolts. Reuse'em. Period.
Replacing them is just stupid. Don't be that guy.

It is SO EASY for someone else to tell you to spend money unnecessarily, after all they don't feel your pain.

ANY USA-made Grade 8 bolt can stand hundreds, if not thousands of torquings to less than yield stress without losing its strength or stretching. That's why we use steel for bolts.

Do you feel that I'm yelling? I am. The amount of superstition and needless replacement of parts on this board is enough to drive me nuts.

My mercedes engine has torque-to-yield rod bolts. So what does the factory service manual say about replacement? It says reuse them until the necked down area is less than a specified dimension. These bolts are torqued past their yield point (they permanently stretch) during assembly, and it would be easy for M-B to say replace them, but they know that's not necessary. I measured them, they were well above the spec, reused them and took the engine to redline the first time out. 6500 rpm with a reused torque-to-yield rod bolt? No sweat. That's what mechanical engineers are for.

R.