Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1584051
02/25/14 07:57 AM
02/25/14 07:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,163 Melbourne , Australia
LA360
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,163
Melbourne , Australia
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I have seen a few instances where it has lifted off, but I have seen many, many engines that have been internally painted and never had an issue. The last one I did still looked it had just been painted when it was freshened.
Alan Jones
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: 408cuda]
#1584052
02/25/14 09:16 AM
02/25/14 09:16 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325 Truckville, the capital of NY
85_Ram_4speed
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,325
Truckville, the capital of NY
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I actually have used the red oxide Rustoleum rusty metal primer from a rattle can on cleaned blocks and have had excellent results over the years. All the blocks I have done come from the machinest bake and blast machine and then I wash them with hot soapy water and dried for at least a couple hours. I just do it to help keep any flash over or surface rust from forming during the build and help seal the pores in the metal. Sometimes I do the whole block, other times it's just the lifter valley timing chain area. It's just a pain to mask when you spray, but I like the results. 383 build: 440 build: Brand X build:
Outcast Dodge guy.
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1584054
02/25/14 02:49 PM
02/25/14 02:49 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,547 Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,547
Syracuse,NY
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Quote:
I think it's a waste of time and a perfectly good paint brush. It does look cool in the magazines.
I would disagree on this. It does much more than just look cool...lol.
RIP Monte Smith
Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.
WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: Jeremiah]
#1584055
02/25/14 05:52 PM
02/25/14 05:52 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 883 Affton MO
qwkmopardan
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 883
Affton MO
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Quote:
I think it's a waste of time and a perfectly good paint brush. It does look cool in the magazines.
What functional purpose does it serve. I use oven cleaner to remove it when I get an engine that someone has applied it to.
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: qwkmopardan]
#1584056
02/25/14 06:07 PM
02/25/14 06:07 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Quote:
I think it's a waste of time and a perfectly good paint brush. It does look cool in the magazines.
What functional purpose does it serve. I use oven cleaner to remove it when I get an engine that someone has applied it to.
Do you know why its put in there? to allow the oil to return easier... every bit of rough casting slows the oil from returning... if you want you can polish it but the paint is easier and does work
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: qwkmopardan]
#1584059
02/25/14 10:52 PM
02/25/14 10:52 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Funny, on modern race engines oil is trapped in the top of engine and routed to the pan at the very rear or very front to keep the oil from attempting to pass through the rotating crankshaft assembly where most of it will churn in the crank and will cause drag and loss of power. And very little will make it to the pan anyway under hard accelleration. Ever look at a GM rocket block or a ritter small block mopar? Ideally, a dry sump would be best, with 3 scavenge lines in the pan and one in the valley. You don't see glyptol in a pro/stock or fuel engine. Waste your time if you want, I will trap the oil and let it return to the pan on coast or deceleration.
P-body, I would love to buy your car and put a flat tappet cam, strip the glyptol paint, freshin it up, put a Dana 60 in it and go run some 8.50s on gas.
I'll keep the paint in it...it does have a dry sump.. I will refresh it for who ever buys it.. and yes it would run 8.50 if I regrind the cam... but I wimped out on the cam the first time
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: CompWedgeEngines]
#1584060
02/26/14 12:22 AM
02/26/14 12:22 AM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,675 Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
roadhazard
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,675
Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
I think it's a waste of time and a perfectly good paint brush. It does look cool in the magazines.
I would disagree on this. It does much more than just look cool...lol.
And I'd like to add Mine has been on there 15 years. After the block was clean. I washed it with laquer thinner, then hit it with Brake Kleen just before I brushed 3 coats on, top to bottom.
I find it easier to notice any little bit of debris. Fine metal particles, valve train parts, etc.
If there is dirt anywhere it can be wiped out with a paper shop towel, in one piece
Hope I never have to find out but I think you might be able to find a crack, should one appear
And...... It Aids Oil Drain Back! New motor technology starts with race motor technology. My 1969 block from an Imperial was never meant to push 650HP @ 7,200 RPM with a tall rotor Milodon pump. I'll take my oil to the pan as soon as I can get it there while keeping it off the rotating assembly.
I know I'm missing something, it's been so long since I've touched the Barracuda
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: DusterDave]
#1584066
02/26/14 09:32 PM
02/26/14 09:32 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 982 western pennsylvania
b1dartsport
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 982
western pennsylvania
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I think it's a waste of time and a perfectly good paint brush. It does look cool in the magazines.
I would disagree on this. It does much more than just look cool...lol.
Can you enlighten us with a list of the "much more"?
I worked for a utility company in Pittsburgh and we used it on high voltage Transformer tanks and winding leads. We had a huge problem with insulating oils becoming acidic due to degradation over time and condensation. Glyptal was the only thing that solved our problems. I have never seen it fail or degrade even in the very worst super high voltage, high temperature situations. Our Network operators and mechanics developed all kinds of uses for it including spot rust proofing on Downtown Network Transformers which are almost always partially submerged in water that had salt in it from winter sidewalk maintenance. A couple of coats of it on Breaker or Transformer leads often served as a very good insulator when normal insulating materials could not be used. I have also seen it used as a gasket sealer on high pressure Transformer oil Tanks. I can honestly say that this stuff was on every one of our trucks and is the first thing restocked if there was any danger of running out. Just from someone that used it daily for over 40yrs.
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Re: Glyptal/internal engine painting questions
[Re: b1dartsport]
#1584067
02/26/14 09:43 PM
02/26/14 09:43 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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All I can say about this subject is it does allow the oil to return quicker to the bottom... if your engine is set up to allow the oil to return via the intake valley then its no difference but it allows it quicker to get there... I would prefer that than having the oil up top in the valley doing nothing but draining the pan... get it back as best you can... if you dont like it hitting the crank then direct it to the rear and drop it down there.. oil laying in the top is a waste of oil........ JMO
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