Hey guys,

Let me start off by apologizing for my carburetor ignorance. I was unfortunately born too late to have ever owned a daily driver with a carb. My personal experience is mostly limited to cursing Carter BBDs after they have been sitting long enough to empty the float bowls.

I'm working on 71' Road Runner clone that will be powered by (I hope) a healthy 383. I'm trying to build a bit of sleeper than looks fairly close to stock.

My current plan is to run a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb. IIRC, all factory Mopar 4 barrel carbs were fairly small cfm-wise... 625-650 cfm??

What I'd like to do is buy a cheaper, second hand Holley and "build" a carb that looks fairly correct for a 71' 383 4-speed car.

My questions are:

What used Holley should I look for? I know they are numbered for different makes' linkage style.

Can anybody tell me what features I would find a 71' correct Holley? And can I add them to a A/M carb?

And last question... can somebody point in the right to direction to learn about any new upgrades that I should do for drive-ability, tuning and tolerance to modern gas?

Any help and guidance would be much appreciated

There just was a thread on the visual & other differences between the OE/aftermarket holleys several weeks ago iirc. I'm not sure how to search for that. For an aftermarket Holley I'd want one of the clones that has adjustable systems that the OE ones did not have. Not sure if a person could get an OE one & rebuild it & use an aftermarket primary metering block with those adjustable air bleeds etc. I'm not into Holleys very much so my help/info is limited but here's a BTT for ya

Clone? If it was me I would buy a new 800 Thunder AVS, bolt it on and not worry about it.

Sheldon

a 3310 will work ok.

If you can find one that has a secondary metering block, those are preferred. You can buy a conversion kit if it does not that uses jets instead of the metering plate system.

6 pak (2bbl) carbs are a different animal. I'm not sure what's available for them other than OE carbs or probably repro 6 pak carbs. Someone knowledgeable will help you there. EDIT Oh OK your saying you have a 6 pak in addition to the 71RR, I gotcha now. MORE EDIT It's likely that the clones use holley jets in the air bleeds etc

My six pack for my truck has a hodge podge of OE carbs

My advice is similar to previous postings; look for a list 3310 with the secondary metering block. Adding the block is straightforward if you can't locate one that already has it.

Spend a few minutes looking the carb over thoroughly before buying. I've seen base plates cracked, shaft's wobbling in the base plate, accelerator pump cover screws stripped out and junior high racer mods made to them which generally render them useless for a street car. A favorite seemed to be removing the choke assembly and sometimes milling down the air horn.

Rebuild kits are inexpensive and readily available. Go with the non stick gaskets though. Generally you shouldn't need to increase the accelerator pump. Stay with the vacuum secondary setup. Linkage and brackets available on line. I'm not an expert by any means but have been running these for years. Have only had one that would not work well and turned out to have a crack in the base plate I'd missed. Being up North ours have to be put away for winter. I've always used sea foam in the gas tank before storing and haven't had problems. No other fuel related issues I've run into. Lots of good books available on line if you're so motivated.

Many years ago I had an Offy 2 4 barrel setup with AFB's on my drag car and ran it like that for at least 4 years. On a whim I changed out the intake and put a stock 3310 on the car and first pass out it went 2 tenths of a second quicker than it ever had. Did I feel stupid.

I am curious why the recommendation to convert the 3310s secondaries to the metering block?

The OP is an admitted novice on carbs. Adding the secondary block does add additional tuning capabilities to the carb, but for someone that does not even know the difference between a 4150 and a 4160, that may not be a good thing.

Besides, the 3310 may be the most popular Holley ever produced and the overwhelming majority have lacked the secondary metering block. Only the very first ones had it.

In my opinion, having a secondary metering block on a 3310 only adds expense and complexity that a beginner tuning a mild engine can't get enough advantages from to justify. Which is why Holley eliminated it many years ago on their most popular entry level model of carb.

One last thought here, weren't the original style of Holley's on the OP's car single inlet carbs? Unlike the dual inlet 3310 style? Point being that they look quite different.

All valid points. I suggested the secondary block because of the OP's statement of a healthy 383. If he decided he needed a little more snort when getting into the secondaries it's simpler to increase jet sizes than figure out metering plates.

Certainly the dual inlet setup will not look oem. My thinking was the best fit for a novice. If I could figure one out certainly the OP could.

OP, buy this book,

https://www.google.com/search?q=super+tu...h=730&dpr=1

and no matter which holley box you use, you'll be able to make it work.

Which book? That link brings up about 5 different books!

Different versions of the same book for the most part.
I have this one, once you know 'how' it works, getting good performance out of them is pretty easy.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/...ved=0CGIQ8wIwAg

Thank you for the replies,

I'm gonna start with the book and go from there.

Okay....

I ended up ordering 3 books on Holley carbs and have done some reading.

I now know the difference between a 4150 and a 4160, and I understand why the 3310 was also recommended.

But I have a new question... it seems that 383s came with 600 cfm carbs, did any Mopar engines use a factory Holley that was 750 cfm?

If so can anybody tell me the list #?

I'd think the holley on the 440 would be the largest but I doubt if it was 750 but wait & see what others say on that

The OE Mopar carbs were small. But the factory had to contend with a lot of limiting factors. Timing curves, cam profiles, exhaust, etc all had to be less than optimum to let anybody with a driver's license to be able to floor it under almost any driving conditions.

Which is why bigger cams, hedders, re=curved distributors, al. intakes, and bigger carbs helped our Mopars.

It's not that the Mopar engineers didn't know what they were doing, it is just that they had a ton of constraints that you and I don't.

Throw the 750 on it and rock!