I think I know what I need to do before I post this, but want some verification right/wrong:

383, 67 coronet, 727, had tranny rebuilt 15,000 miles ago, had 2400 rpm stall converter, NO PROBLEMS.

Changed to 3500 10" street fighter (please keep TCI comment to yourself, thanks), and trans will not go into reverse or drive without first revving it in nuetral.

Put in new manual valve with hole to charge pump in park, things a little better but still have to rev it if the car is shut off for more than 1 minute.

Always have to rev it over 2000 rpm for it to work, other wise no drive or reverse.

I personally think the converter is JUNK, or at least the snout is off spec.

I want a new converter, but really don't want to pay a bizzilion $$$ for a custom race unit when I just need a good street converter.


Is the converter the problem here????

Who should I call???

are you saying you physically can't shift it into gear w/o reving it? or that it doesn't move until you rev it? you should be able to shift it no matter what the rpm is. Pump ok? If it was fine b4 the converter and now it's not...I would assume it would be the converter. I'm not sure but I think not all 727's use the same converter. I'd probably cease driving untill you can figure it out. You could lose the netire trans. If/When you yank it put it next to your old one and see if the hubs are the same. Then go get a mopar 175K for $140...the flash to about 3k. Good luck.

Well if it's a 3500 stall convertor then..............

Yes, I'm saying that I need to rev the car for a second or two in N or D befoer the trans will "move".

Once I've done that and the car remains running, the trans shifts fine drives great.

I guess it is bleeding down?

67, have you had any experiences with the 175k? what diameter? 3000 stall behind your 440? Anyone else recommend the mopar 175k for a 450-475 SC,EFI 383?

What's the part #?


And Mopey, I know what your getting at, and no.

I have many trans woes but never a "bleed down" a 3500 stall won't move the car well untill it hits 3000rpm. I use the 175K in this and it is great. I have had 0 problems and it sends me down the track well. It flashes at about 2800-3000...it's rated for 2200-2400 but it does much better. # of my friends run them now along w/ the Summit cam...hahaha. The part number is 175k I think? Not sure how big it is. 10-11 inch?

both of my slushboxes do the same thing. my 65 will drain back in a few hours, the 69 a few days. i was told once what the problem was but didn't understand. i just start my cars in neutral. typical torqueflite problem .

Chrysler used to have a one way valve for a very similar condition on there over drive autos a while back. I had several 360 3500s that would not go move until the motor was revved up. The valve in the trans line solved the problem except where the frt pump or convertor were the culprit

Thanks guys, so it doesn't look like it is the convertors fault, just a normal thing huh?

Maybe the "looser" convertor is making things seems worse because I have to rev the engine higher to get the fluid moving?

Paul, can you tell me more about the anti-drainback valve? PN? installation?

Does anyone think this is the convertors fault? Thanks again...

I had two trannies do this to me, and I don't really blame the converter... Mine it happened right before they went out and needed a rebuild. one tranny only had 800 miles on it. (bad seal in it). Good luck but it may either be a stuck valve body. try changing the fluid first...that helped me for a little while..

Obviously it IS the converter if things were fine before you swapped it out. There are a few problems that can cause what you're describing, none of which are a problem if you let the car idle in neutral during warm-up. If what you want is a good street converter, a 3500 stall is not the right piece for you. Go with a stock piece for a 426 hemi. It stalls around 2800 and is an excellent street performance piece behind a big block.

The loose converter should not cause what you are describing. Are you sure you got the new converter set in the pump the whole way and it didn't slip back out when you installed it. I have seen this happen before but don't ask how.

Montclair,

I know what you are saying, which is why I said what I did in the opening post, I thought it was the convetotr as well, still miight be, just wondering if it is "normal" for a high(er) stall convertor to make the issue worse. I've had this converotr in the car for at least 10,000 miles and it hasn't gotten any better or worse, its just annoying to have to rev the car to 2000 rpm everytime I start it. this is my daily, go to work, revv it, go to lunch, rev it, go back to work, rev it, go home, rev it, stop and get milk, rev it, get it?

A word (actually a few) on 3500 rpm stall on the street, I loved it with the NA 383, now that the car is SC, I think it stalls too high as the boost really comes on around 3000 rpm and the convertor flashes in the 4000 rpm range. I'd like it to tighten it up at least 5-800 rpm, but don't want to spend $700 on a custom convertor. Do you think the 175k (hemi?) convertor will do that?

Thunder, I do no think the convertor slipped out as it is bolted to the flex plate just fine..

Quote:

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I'd like it to tighten it up at least 5-800 rpm, but don't want to spend $700 on a custom convertor. Do you think the 175k (hemi?) convertor will do that?

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I can't comment on the quality of new MP converters, mine is/was a NOS piece made by the original manufacturer. Can't recall the info off the top of my head, but it's an original hemi converter that was bought ages ago. It does indeed stall at 2800, and that's 700rpm less that what yours is rated at, so....

BTW, I'd figure a manual valve body on a daily driver more annoying than letting the car warm up for a minute. Didn't MA cover drain-back recently?

no, I definately do not want a manual valve body. What issue of MA was that covered in?

my 65 coronet has a 1966 street hemi converter' and my 69 r/t has the stock 11 3/4, both have drain back issues. 1996 ram 1500 truck, 318 auto, had the same issue. rick allison (a&a trans.) told me once it was a bushing (or something like that) that was loose or needed replaced. anyhow i didn't understand the technocolities .

Alot of times it's due to a warped pump flange. It's really not a big deal, just plumb in a valve.

I do believe you are experiencing "morning sickness". My 727 didnt do it before it was rebuilt, now it does. I have had two converters in it and it does the same as you describe with either converter, one a 3500 stall TCI 10 inch. Anyway, here is a link to a valve that is supposed to cure the problem. I dont know yet as I havent installed it, but its supposed to.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&tc=photo&item=7959100006&category=33727

Sorry for the ebay link, but thats the only place I can find the info. It doesnt spell it out in this ad, but Ive spoken with another tranny guy was selling the same kit who said that the kit "will" fix the converter drainback or morning sickness problem. Hope this helps.

where does that valve go? inside the trans or ???