I've built several engines over the years, but soon I'll do what I have yet to do : Degree in a camshaft.
The 440/493 in the Charger has had detonation problems for years. I've determined that the 185-192 PSI cranking numbers are too high for pump 91 gasoline. I have had to limit ignition timing to 30-31 degrees and still had to feather-foot it in hot weather to avoid the knock.
Upon the guidance and advice from some helpful members here and other web forums, it was made clear that my 10.7 compression ratio and the 292/509 MP cam are a mismatch. I'd either need to lower the compression or change to a different cam. If I changed to dished pistons, the cylinder pressure and cranking PSIs would come down. If I kept the pistons but instead changed the cam to a more aggressive stick with a later intake closing, the cylinder pressure and cranking PSIs would come down. The difference between the two?
Changing the cam will unleash much more power. Guess which way I decided to go???
A member of another site forum suggested the cam. It is a Lunati solid flat tappet and it is much more aggressive compared to the MP 509. Check out these specs:

I decided to go with the Lunati EDM type lifters. Man, these things look like an hourglass!

I'm just learning about some of this...
The wide band in the center of the lifter will allow oil flowing through the gallery to build. The hole shown in the scribed line shows where the oil enters the body of the lifter. From there, it runs to the center of the bottom face of the lifter.

I went with a one bolt cam.

You keep saying "more aggressive", but I think you mean larger, as that is not really an aggressive cam. Sounds like it might be perfect for you, and your power should go up. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Also a dial indicator and attachments, plus a pointer.

The specs seem pretty rowdy to me, but keep in mind the 292/509 is the biggest cam I've ever ran before.

Aggressive is used to describe the rate of lift, from seat to 0.050", and to .200".

The cam you got will lower your cylinder pressure, increase power, and be easy on parts. It'll have a lot of rumpity-rump.

The degree kit came with instructions. I've read about the process before and looked at some videos on Youtube. I actually did find 2 guys here in town that could bail me out if/when I run into a snag.
The main issue I have is WHAT DO I DO if the cam comes in with an error? The timing set I have is an Edelbrock #7804. It has 3 keyways: 4* ADV, Zero, 4* RET. The cam card shows it has 2 degrees of advance ground in on a 108 centerline. Does this mean it should be set to 106?
IF I determine that it is off by 4 degrees, I could easily switch the crank gear to advance or retard. What if it is 2-3 degrees off? The one bolt cam style has a dowel that fits into a hole in the cam gear. To get the additional offset, am I supposed to oval out the hole in the cam sprocket and use a wedge? Sorry to be such a pest on this. I have asked that question several times and if anyone had answered it, I must have missed it.
I hope to start in on the engine on Friday.

Check the cam lift and duration on the lifters and then, once you get it where it says on the card, check the lobe seperation angles and cam timing for advance on the retainers with the lash set as recommended for cold checking Check and time the intake lobe first, once you get it where you want it(106 degrees after top dead center max lift on the intake(+ 1 or minus 1 degree) then check the exhaust side If that cam is ground on a 108 lobe seperation angle and they want the intake lobe set at 106 ATDC then the exhaust lobe should be in at 110 BTDC I like to check the lobes in at least two (I do three ) locations, .050 before max lift and again at .100 and I do .200 before max lift also Don't forget to check the valve to piston clearances(both valves) once you get the cam located where it is going to stay at Good luck, the first time is always the hardest, like many other things we learn to do in life

How do you check piston to valve clearance with the heads on the car?
I have those checking springs that came with the degree wheel kit. Do I install them, then check how much more they can move at TDC?

If you come up less than 2 degrees of where it should be, leave it, as 1 degree isn't enough to warrant moving it for a minimal difference (maybe on a SuperStock car or something similar but not in your case). I like to err on the advanced side as far as error goes, i.e. the cam in my engine had a recommended centerline of 106, I installed it straight up and measured it with a 104.5 installed centerline. This is almost perfect, since the timing chain will stretch a bit and probably put me at 105-106 in a few thousand miles. From what I've seen chains stretch pretty fast initially (they're really tight when installed but it doesn't last long).

To do it right, you need a mounting hub. There's many ways to do it, a hub designed for the job is best. Because if you just bolt it to the crank you could damage/wear out the degree wheel. Also it's really hard to loosen the bolt to adjust the wheel without moving the crank if it's bolted to the crank, almost impossible. And when it comes time to reverse the crank the bolt can come loose making you start over. You need a hub...

Several different types.


Then every motor is different, I use this plate almost 100% of the time. It get bolted somewhere and your indicator mount get's stuck to it. 100% mandatory with a aluminum motor or heads.

What kind of heads?? You sure the fire wire on the fel pro gaskets is not hanging in the combustion chamber and glowing red hot?? a common problem.

Lean jetting and too low a power valve number can cause light throttle ping too!

You know there is a way to degree a camshaft that uses feeler gauges rather than a bunch of math and such, Feb 97 Mopar Action has it in there I believe.