Im having some issues with my 92 Dakota. 5.2 Auto, MPFI

It keeps throwing code 11, and will just shut off ignition power at random. Sometimes multiple timea a day, sometimes no issues for a week.

Its getting to the point I am not confident in driving it 140 miles each day.

I have changed the CPS about 4 months ago when the new trans went in, and all was fine until about 2 months ago when this started. (it happended to start the day after a waterpump change)

I originally thought maybe a wire got pinched, or insulation cracked during the swap, but there are no signs of this after several close inspections.

I am going to have a timing chain replaced, it has 140K on the clock. And just for poops, and giggles, may even stick a new CPS on it.

IF this doesnt solve the issue, I want to remove the injection, and go to a carb.

What do i need other than the following:

Carb style manifold

Carb

Distributor (most likely going to go Pertronix) Looking at the flamethrower III dizzy for an LA motor, is this the one I want to lose the computer control?

Ignition (see distributor)

Fuel pressure regulator with return line.

Now I'm not sure what to do about the 518 OD trans. I think the 92 is still a hydraulic lockup, so I only need to control the OD shift.

Can I retain the computer for this, or will I need to go with a system like the PATC vacuum switch, and pressure switch like would be used on a standard 727 to 518 swap?

Anything else I may be forgetting, or should change?

Don't do it. A lot of hassle and expense for no gain. Your year of wiring would be OBD1 and it's super simple. If the crankshaft sensor has crapped out again, that will kill your fuel pump. Otherwise it may be your computer.

I have tried swapping in a new MP performance computer.

It makes the issue even worse.

I need to have this truck be reliable, I'm disabled, and cant be getting stranded on the side of the road at the trucks whim.

I will sacrifice a few mileage points to gain reliability.

It wouldn't be hard at all & you'll gain power & MPG most likely.
PATC kit Ignition isn't hard to wire at all
use a return style regulator

RPM Air Gap required & you have to make the Eddy work even though it's supposed to be the best one for the job To keep the A/C you have to make a hole & tap it for the heater hose nipple. They put it directly under the A/C compressor & none of their could be cast in bosses were in the right place

my 5.9 in my CrewCab got a solid 19 MPG hwy with OD & 4.11's w/33's @ 70 MPH

I'll take some pics tomorrow & show what it takes to make all the accessories work

Have you checked the main harness near the battery? There's a splice in there that is notorious for failing at the worst moment. Very common on those trucks. Sorry I can't be more specific but if you search the threads using the google feature, you should be able to find something.

Other things to check:

1. How old is the battery?
2. TPS and IAS (?) sensors
3. Fuel pump

I totally sympathize. I have a 93 5.2l that plays games too. One time it did it at a stoplight just after I bought a truckload of parts from John_RR as I was getting on the Mass Pike! Boy, was the guy behind me pissed! Did all of the above and just did a water pump. I still don't trust it, but I love my '93. Someday hope to a total restoration because I am sick of doing cars!

Coil failure is REAL common on the magnum engines, we use to see it all the time at the dealer, cheap to try too.

I'd like to know too!

Does the Magnum coil test the same at the older cylinder ones?

What was the symptom(s) of a coil failure?

It was 90 here today, my truck died twice, only to restart a short time later. I believe the coil is the original and has 158K on it.

Sorry to hp383 for hijacking your post

Here's that pic Jamie!

The heater hose is designed to come up under the A/C

Where I moved mine to there was a blank boss for a 1/8" npt fitting

I'll measure the spacers needed to attach all the brackets & make them as functional as they can be using grade 8 bolts

Edelbrock was only partially thinking when they designed this intake

Here's the spacers & bolts

Another pic

Here's a pic of the gaps

Change the coil they will often cause this type of issue Also check rest of wiring as you have done but carefully go over all the computer wires for cracks

So here's the next issue. How do I route thet throttle cable to work on a carb?

Do I need to replace it with something from an alternate year?

The MPI loops over to the passenger side. It looks like it will be much to long to work.

91 down cable

Agree that its a ton of work for little gain. When you changed the CPS -did you use an aftermarket / non-Mopar / cheaper part? I've run into this several times where using a Mopar CPS was the solution. Don't ask me why but it works.