I'm currently building a low miles 440 (original bearings,no bore ridge,etc) to emulate the Car Craft 535hp buildup from 2001(Dulcich currently has the longblock(built it,too?)based on reading between lines over the years).
Anyway, the only changes from that build are I'm using a Hughes ported RPM intake, and a 275XE cam(they used 274XE w/1.6 rockers, so it's a wash overall).
My Q's are- since CC didn't change the springs on the Eddy heads, will I be ok too?
Another, they retained the stock main bolts-will that suffice if I pass inspection? I feel no tight spots and there are no nail catches, plastigauges(I know) @ .002-.003 on all mains.
I will have it checked @ Bischoff's of Enginemasters fame(just 15 miles away!) to be certain-these are just preliminary checks,just trying to get an idea of what is needed. Should I consider a girdle at this point? I will go to at least studs if an align hone is done,as it is.
Oh, one other change is going with either KB forged or JE/SRP- still made in USA, unlike Speed-Pro(BOOO!), and probably Total Seal Top Gapless rings.

Eddy heads are good to .600 lift
SRP pistons are what I use.

Thanks for the assurance- I appreciate it!

The Car craft 440/RPM head engine was in a few different articles with different cams and intakes. I think one thing they did not mention is the block must have been milled to get the compression ratio/deck height they quote on the story, but the engine was really impressive, expecially the torque numbers.
In one article, I think in Mopar Muscle, they used a Hughes cam that was simular the the Comp cam, and they mention they needed to change the valve springs out. I think they even said the power was down a bit before the changes because the Edelbrock valve springs were loosing pressure with the Comp cam?

As for the bottom end, you don't need a girdle, but main studs would be a good idea. If your on a tight budget the ARP main bolts are not too expensive and would be an upgrade over the stock bolts.

I'm not sure you mentioned connecting rods, but at a minimum, install ARP rod bolts and have the rods checked and re-conditioned. There are a bunch of afforadable aftermarket rods avaliable you may want to consider also. For example many of these rods (like 440-source) use the 7/16" ARP 2000 rod bolts.

Cool-I wasn't going to skimp on rod bolts.
I've seen that same 440 since then in more than a few articles, as mentioned. Glad I'm not the only one.
I'll probably go with bolts if Bischoff says it doesn't need align honed.