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Re: crap welds -
[Re: RebelDart]
#1428969
05/01/13 10:19 PM
05/01/13 10:19 PM
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
VincentVega
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
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unless you have a pretty big welder, then that's a job for flux-cored wire. that's thick gauge and most 110v welders can't do that in MIG mode. check the process table inside the welder to be sure. about any 220v welder should be able to do that in MIG, but either process is fine
But yeah, I've seen some pretty bad welding on mopars - I'm sure we all have. "oh they must have been training someone that day."
I admit I've never seen a stress crack as a result of it, but you definitely have one there. easily repaired, and good thing you found it
In this case, preparation is everything. do NOT try to bridge air gaps with the puddle. You'll want to spend a lot of time with your grinder getting rid of the nasties, and probably some time with a hammer and/or gas torch to get things together prior to striking the arc
If you are going to use the aluminum subframe biscuits (and you should), note that while they tie things together very well, it will result in more shock passed through the frame and be harder on the joints. So cross your Ts and dot your Is
Looking for 1975 through 1978 B body 4 door sedan sheet metal or parts cars - monaco, fury, coronet. Please let me know
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Re: crap welds -
[Re: RebelDart]
#1428973
05/01/13 11:05 PM
05/01/13 11:05 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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YIKES! I did WAY better than that back in High School shop class! Gas OR electric. That is scary! My shop teacher made me gas weld a bunch of panels for his hogs. I got pretty good at it. It's been years, though.
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Re: crap welds -
[Re: dogdays]
#1428978
05/02/13 01:01 PM
05/02/13 01:01 PM
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568
Omaha, Nebraska
Scott Carl
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,568
Omaha, Nebraska
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On the bench, stick (SMAW) does tend to have better penetration than MIG (GMAW). That being said, MIG must be good enough. I was a production welder for 20 years and can attest that every light pole and traffic arm and power transmission tower you drive past, or under has been welded with MIG.  The larger power transmission structures likely have been welded with flux core (FCAW) but that is still MIG. It's been the standard of the industry for a good 40 years. BUT, I agree, those welds pictured are indeed, crap, albeit easily fixed. Key is as said; grinding, or gouging out the porosity and cracks (the bad welds) first and making a clean weld joint. Good luck, Scott 
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Re: crap welds -
[Re: Jim_Lusk]
#1428981
05/03/13 04:50 AM
05/03/13 04:50 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 532
Marion, Ohio USA
kab69440
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 532
Marion, Ohio USA
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I would definitely be shooting a generous helping of 7018 at that mess.
Just because you're paranoid, it doesn't mean they are not out to get you.
WANT TO BUY- Looking for a CD by 'The Sub-Mersians' entitled "Raw Love Songs From my Garage To Your Bedroom". Also, any of the various surf-revival compilation albums this band has contributed to.
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Re: crap welds -
[Re: RebelDart]
#1428984
05/05/13 08:09 PM
05/05/13 08:09 PM
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Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
VincentVega
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,106
Northeast
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Quote:
Looks like my MIG won't have a problem with 10-12 gauge (up to 1/4") ... what I found odd is they recommend flux core on anything heavier than 14 ... gas is shown for lighter metals - again, I'm a beginner, so ......
That's normal. They're all like that. most welders will do thicker on flux-core which is typically DCEN, or DC electrode-negative. this is the reverse polarity of MIG welding with gas, and will be "hotter." You may notice on the extreme range of your table it will signify multiple passes for the thickest material in flux-core mode. FCAW welding can be thought of as stick welding with a really long electrode
MIG is more forgiving, especially because you can "push" the puddle which is inherently a cooler process. and 110v units (don't know what you have, it sounds like a typical 110v deal) are ideal for body work because thin gauge metal doesn't need much power. this is also why you will have a very frustrating time trying to weld body panels with flux-core wire. it's just too hot, you can't dial it down enough
By the way, your manual will tell you that for welding outside, especially when there is a breeze, use flux-core. Wind will blow away your shielding gas. So if you do want to use that, which you probably do, do it inside and be fire-conscious (it's easy to forget about safety when you get in the groove, of have past welding experience). Think it through first in your head.
I switch back and forth on my welder a lot, between MIG and FCAW, it's just a polarity, inner liner, and tip change. I can tell you that if you get good with NR-211-MP .030", you can get a GREAT weld on k-frame thick material with very little hassle.
I can tell you from experience that a 110v unit will most likely NOT be able to give you a weld as wide as that factory one with any kind of penetration in MIG mode on material of that thickness (it's probably thicker than .075" btw). If you are using straight CO2 for your shielding gas (which helps heat), you might give it a try (drag the torch instead of pushing it for more heat) and see what happens. Otherwise, you'd need to use FCAW (but be careful, because FCAW tends to create a narrow/deeper weld, so it's not great for bridging), or rent/borrow/buy a bigger unit.
Nothing's easy 
Looking for 1975 through 1978 B body 4 door sedan sheet metal or parts cars - monaco, fury, coronet. Please let me know
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