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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315574
10/06/12 07:24 PM
10/06/12 07:24 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,719
Up North eh'
Stroked_Hemi
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,719
Up North eh'
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Quote:
Sprayed the PB Blaster and all the rust is gone but the hard line fastener is too stripped (both of them) and wrenching isn't doing anything but rounding it off. And something I noticed... There are 3/8" bolts on the passenger side and 1/2" bolts on the driver side and none of the driver or passenger side bolts or fasteners are budging.
Passenger side:
If you can get the bleeder off for room, a medium size pair of visegrips always worked for me, get the visegrip jaws seated good and tight around it... give it a hard short crank.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: wally426ci]
#1315578
10/06/12 10:51 PM
10/06/12 10:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Invest in Line wrenches (flare nut wrench). They are more closed at the end so it will slip over the line. 
One of my coworker told me to get some a couple weeks ago. I guess I should have. It seems my friend is on board with doing the entire brake system next weekend.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315579
10/06/12 11:32 PM
10/06/12 11:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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Someone above mentioned visegrips. I have to agree, I never use wrenches on stuff like this, they strip out pieces way too much. I always just use a nice set of the angled grip pliers or some vicegrips. They knock it out no problem, and you wont strip it.
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: ahy]
#1315580
10/07/12 02:01 AM
10/07/12 02:01 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
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Quote:
It looks like you will be replacing the end sections of brake line... not uncommon.
With that, just get a bolt cutter and nip the brake lines off near the slave cylinders. The slaves should unbolt and slide out as normal.
If you are saving the slave cylinders, you can put them in a vise and use a little heat and vise grips to get the stubs off. Easier on the bench.
You're going to get him overwelmed and stuck on this little project.
He does not have a flaring tool. Nor I'm sure has ever used one. He just got his first hydraulic jack and jack stands and barely has enough hand tools to do this job.
I think that connection can be finesesed out by someone with experience and right tools.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315581
10/07/12 02:23 AM
10/07/12 02:23 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
Invest in Line wrenches (flare nut wrench). They are more closed at the end so it will slip over the line.
One of my coworker told me to get some a couple weeks ago. I guess I should have. It seems my friend is on board with doing the entire brake system next weekend.
That side wheel cylinder does not appear to be leaking. Please take some pictures with a real camera so we can see the thickness of the brake shoe lining material. Get a fine marked steel ruler and measure the thinnest section of material on each shoe.
I don't see that you rear wheel cylinders are leaking. Carefully take a dull screwdriver and pull the dust boot from the wheel cylinder back. Then look to see if any fluid runs out.
STOP and go to other side and inspect the wheel clyinder and take picture of that side.
If both sides are not leaking and the brake shoe lining material is ok, just change the master cylinder for now.
Go to harbor freight and get a set up brake line wrenches. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-sae-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-68865.html
Or Craftsman: http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-4-pc-Standard-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set-reviews
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1315582
10/07/12 08:57 AM
10/07/12 08:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,071
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,071
Niles , Ohio
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Line wrenchs from Harbor Freight?I think vice grips are better.Buy a real line wrench.SnapOn.It will las a life time and pay for itself.When the lines are rust and stuck I have a set of side cutters.Cut the end off and use a 6 point socket.Same with the whl cyl bolts.Use a 6 point.If they snap just get new bolts and use anti sieze.Same with the hard lines.I also have SnapOn bleeder wernchs.They will turn the bleeders 99% pf the time without snapping.Yeha they are pricey but they work.I had to have them for work but also had them at home.You havent seen rust till you work on Ohio stuff.I just hope your helper has some tools and can flare lines.Best to replace them if they are rusty.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: roe]
#1315583
10/07/12 10:06 AM
10/07/12 10:06 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Quote:
Someone above mentioned visegrips. I have to agree, I never use wrenches on stuff like this, they strip out pieces way too much. I always just use a nice set of the angled grip pliers or some vicegrips. They knock it out no problem, and you wont strip it.
roe
Sounds like cheap line wrenches. After a time or two those vice grips are going to knurl up the soft metal of the brake line fitting. I'll use vice grips on a fastener I'll never use again.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: therocks]
#1315584
10/07/12 10:27 AM
10/07/12 10:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
bboogieart
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,886
Lost and Spaced
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First purchase should be a shop manual for your year and model. It's all there. That's how I learned befor there was an inner net. I always use four good jack stands on a level surface, then cut the break lines with a saw or diagonal cutter pliers, and use a 6 point socket and a breaker-bar for the bolts. The flare wrenches are handy for installation. Your gonna need to remove all the springs and might as well pull the shoes too, to remove the cylinders. These should be replaced as well. When doing brakes on older cars I replace everything, from the master or booster right down to the hardware and pads. I used to just fix what was leaking but soon found out where the next weakest point was.  The lines are cheap to replace and easy to bend, just copy the parts you remove. Don't make it too hard on yourself, it's really just a simple job once you do a couple times. Take your time and keep saftey in mind and you will be O.K. If you decide to replace just the master as rcomended, you will still need to break away the bleeder screws. If those break off you will be replacing the wheel cylinders any way.
I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: therocks]
#1315587
10/07/12 03:08 PM
10/07/12 03:08 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
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Quote:
Line wrenchs from Harbor Freight?I think vice grips are better.Buy a real line wrench.SnapOn.It will las a life time and pay for itself.When the lines are rust and stuck I have a set of side cutters.Cut the end off and use a 6 point socket.Same with the whl cyl bolts.Use a 6 point.If they snap just get new bolts and use anti sieze.Same with the hard lines.I also have SnapOn bleeder wernchs.They will turn the bleeders 99% pf the time without snapping.Yeha they are pricey but they work.I had to have them for work but also had them at home.You havent seen rust till you work on Upstate New York stuff.I just hope your helper has some tools and can flare lines.Best to replace them if they are rusty.Rocky
 and corrected
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1315589
10/07/12 03:35 PM
10/07/12 03:35 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Quote:
Line wrenchs from Harbor Freight?I think vice grips are better.Buy a real line wrench.SnapOn.It will las a life time and pay for itself.When the lines are rust and stuck I have a set of side cutters.Cut the end off and use a 6 point socket.Same with the whl cyl bolts.Use a 6 point.If they snap just get new bolts and use anti sieze.Same with the hard lines.I also have SnapOn bleeder wernchs.They will turn the bleeders 99% pf the time without snapping.Yeha they are pricey but they work.I had to have them for work but also had them at home.You havent seen rust till you work on Upstate New York stuff.I just hope your helper has some tools and can flare lines.Best to replace them if they are rusty.Rocky
and corrected
All my line wrenches and sockets I've been using are brand new Craftsmans I've bought within the past 3 months. Idk where Harbor Freight came from.  I know for a fact my friend has the tools, he used to flip tools off of CL for extra money. Not only that but he did the brakes on his car and is going to convert the front to discs soon. Even when I showed him the pics of the fastener he said to me, "You do realize they have specific tools to take those off, right?"
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315590
10/07/12 04:16 PM
10/07/12 04:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Line wrenchs from Harbor Freight?I think vice grips are better.Buy a real line wrench.SnapOn.It will las a life time and pay for itself.When the lines are rust and stuck I have a set of side cutters.Cut the end off and use a 6 point socket.Same with the whl cyl bolts.Use a 6 point.If they snap just get new bolts and use anti sieze.Same with the hard lines.I also have SnapOn bleeder wernchs.They will turn the bleeders 99% pf the time without snapping.Yeha they are pricey but they work.I had to have them for work but also had them at home.You havent seen rust till you work on Upstate New York stuff.I just hope your helper has some tools and can flare lines.Best to replace them if they are rusty.Rocky
and corrected
All my line wrenches and sockets I've been using are brand new Craftsmans I've bought within the past 3 months. Idk where Harbor Freight came from. I know for a fact my friend has the tools, he used to flip tools off of CL for extra money. Not only that but he did the brakes on his car and is going to convert the front to discs soon. Even when I showed him the pics of the fastener he said to me, "You do realize they have specific tools to take those off, right?"
I mentioned Habor Freight. I didn't realize you all ready had Craftsman line wrenches that look exactly like the one pictured above correct? If you are on a uber budget a HF line wrench is better than nothing.
And no reason you need to step up to Snap On tools right now just after you bought your first hydraulic jack. Walk before you run!
I still think you are making this a bigger project than necessary. And everytime you do that you run the risk of the car sitting there forever until you figure out how to get yourself out of that jamb or get fustrated.
Go jack up the other side of the car and see if that wheel cylinder is leaking. And see how much brake shoe/pad material is left.
If ok, just change the master cylinder today.
Anyways, at least TODAY spray some penetrating fluid on the bleeder screws of the other rear drum, front disks, and master clyinder line connections. That will give it soak in time.
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