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Replacing Wheel Cylinders... Rusted Bolts and Lines.
#1315551
10/05/12 01:07 AM
10/05/12 01:07 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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I know this sounds stupid (kind of embarrassing) and I sound like a total Noob, but where would be the proper place to jack a car if I'd like to remove one of the wheels? Do I jack it on the frame near the tire or should I jack it on some sort of center line on the car? Because if I jack it on the side of the car wouldn't it cause the frame to twist? And do I have to jack it till the tire is off the ground or to the point where the tire isn't holding as much load as the other wheels? And do I put the stand in and remove the jack before or after I take the wheel off. Gosh, please bare with me and my ignorance. (Yes, I already purged the jack)
GO TO LATER POSTS AFTER ALL THE PROPER WAY TO JACK A CAR STUFF!!!
Last edited by MuuMuu101; 10/06/12 02:45 AM.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315555
10/05/12 01:18 AM
10/05/12 01:18 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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jack it on the subframe near the wheel that needs to come off. This raises the fender which in some cases is needed for the tire to clear to come off/out. I like to break the lug nuts barely free then jack it up. jack the tire just off of the ground. Put the stand in/under in place then let the jack down easy. Jacking a corner will not twist the frame
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1315556
10/05/12 01:25 AM
10/05/12 01:25 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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If tire to fender clearance is not an issue to get a back tire off, I just throw the jack under the diff near one of the shock mounts, not the center. If your leaf springs are bagged out, doing this may lift the tire too far into the body to get the tire off. If you put the jack on the frame, you might have to lift the frame quite a bit before the tire gets off the ground. Worse if you have sagged out leaf springs. For the front I just throw it under one of the frame rails because the front is lower and doesn't sag as much. If it's my jeep or truck I'll put it under the control arm. If I'm just changing tires, I'll leave it on the jack. If working on anything, lower it down onto a jackstand.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315557
10/06/12 01:06 AM
10/06/12 01:06 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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God what a pain in the butt something as simple as removing wheels can be. Well, I lifted the rear and put it on stands and as I was trying to untighten the lugs, I realized I didn't engage the parking brake and remembered why some said they liked to loosen the nuts when the car's on the ground. So I bring it on the ground, apply the Parking brake, pump the brakes about 10 times (although this probably didn't do anything due to a faulty MC), put some wheel stops in front of the wheel I'm trying to loosen and man, parking brake doesn't work. I was able to loosen the passenger rear, but I'm having trouble with the driver's side. I'm pushing it both ways as hard as I can without having the car roll forwards or back (because it wants to move over the stops and I can't remember if the Driver's side is a LHT), but these bolts feel like they haven't been loosened since the car was bought new (same as passenger side but they were able to slip). Any  or tips will be appreciated... I was thinking WD40 might loosen it up, but I don't think I have any at home.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1315560
10/06/12 01:47 AM
10/06/12 01:47 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
68 should still be left hand thread, so 'rightey tightey, lefty loosey' does not apply. Always break the lugs loose when the car is on the ground. So long as its in park(or gear if a stick) you should be able to break the nuts loose without the car moving around on you too much.
Well, car is in park and the parking brake is engaged so there's probably something wrong with my tranny now too, huh? I got the rear on jacks and I removed the passenger side wheel. I can finally say I'm working on my car.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1315562
10/06/12 02:12 AM
10/06/12 02:12 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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It didn't move much, but enough to take away from loosening the bolt. And are there any household appliances that loosen rusty bolts. Having trouble getting the wheel cylinder bolts removed. Even the brake line is a being a PIA to remove. I'm barely able to turn the brake line loose about a 1/4 turn every 5 mins. It's really stuck on there.
Edit: Yeah, I think I may stop for now since I'm starting to strip the brake line fastener.
Last edited by MuuMuu101; 10/06/12 02:33 AM.
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315565
10/06/12 03:04 AM
10/06/12 03:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Nevermind, with a little persuasion I got the lug nuts loose. Raising the car now to put in the new wheel cylinders. Hopefully I can get them tight enough when I put the wheels back on. 
Are the rear wheel cylinders leaking?
Have you pulled back the dust covers to see if there is any seepage?
Is there any oil leaking out of the axle seal?
Post of picture of each side of the rear brake assy with the drums removed. (they are already removed right?)
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Re: Replacing Wheel Cylinders... Rusted Bolts and Lines.
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1315568
10/06/12 08:48 AM
10/06/12 08:48 AM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
GoodysGotaCuda
5.7L Hemi, 6spd
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5.7L Hemi, 6spd
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 25,050
Texas
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Quote:
So I'm trying to replace the wheel cylinders and the nuts and brake line fasteners just aren't braking loose. I tried both my line wrenches and my socket wrenches and they don't seem to be doing any good. I already started to strip the brake line fastener so I stopped that.
Do you think some WD40 or acetone sprayed on there would help any? I may have to pick some up in the morning. For now I shall take a warm shower and head to bed.
IMO, the sooner you write-off the rear hard lines, the better. If it was mine and it looked remotely rusted, I'd start with PB blaster where the two hardlines meet in the middle of the axle. If you can win with those, some new hardline would be a good way to start. That way you can..get new hardline in there and just cut the hardline at the wheel cylinder and remove it. Old rusty brake line fittings are very unforgiving, sooner you decide to just replace them the better. In my opinion..
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Re: Replacing Wheel Cylinders... Rusted Bolts and Lines.
[Re: GoodysGotaCuda]
#1315569
10/06/12 10:17 AM
10/06/12 10:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,731
North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,731
North Dakota
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If you are replacing the wheel cyclinders and not rebuilding them, heat is your friend. Take a common propane torch and heat the tube nut up. It doesn't have to be red hot or anything drastic, just heat it up. While it's hot, hit it with Kroil, PB, any penetrating oil you like. Try to move the nut. If you get to the point of refusal, back off and re-do the heat and penetrating oil thing. I've save numerous brake lines like this. Now be aware that the cloud that comes off the hot fitting from spraying it with penetrating oil is flammable. Turn the torch off. Good luck.
As a side note, when I go back together I CAREFULLY put anti-seize on the tube where it passes through the tube nut and on the tube nut threads. Want to get some protection here without contaminating the brake fluid.
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Proper Way to Jack a Car...
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1315570
10/06/12 01:25 PM
10/06/12 01:25 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Nevermind, with a little persuasion I got the lug nuts loose. Raising the car now to put in the new wheel cylinders. Hopefully I can get them tight enough when I put the wheels back on.
Are the rear wheel cylinders leaking?
Have you pulled back the dust covers to see if there is any seepage?
Is there any oil leaking out of the axle seal?
Post of picture of each side of the rear brake assy with the drums removed. (they are already removed right?)
The post you quoted were for the lug nuts that held the wheel to the axles.
I haven't been able to take off the cylinder and everything is just dry and rusty back there. I've been primarily focused on the passenger side. I barely touched the driver's side. 3-4 guys on FABO told me to use Pb Blaster to loosen up the nuts so I may have to go today and get some (maybe even replace the lines too).
Sorry for the bad cell phone pics.
Passenger side:
Driver's side:
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