I understand that you should use the same type of fastener for the plate as you are using for the heads. Bolts or studs. It is also my understanding that you should use the same length, using spacers if needed. Here is the problem. Early hemis head bolts and/or studs also hold the rocker stands. This means bolts or studs in 7.5-8.5 inch length. Should I make up spacers for that length of bolt/stud, or is it just not needed and/or practical in this case? Thanks.

Can you put the shaft cradle on top of the plate?
I would think the rockers would be in the way, but you can remove them

No,with the way the rocker stands are made, there is only approximately 3.75 diameter clearance between them. Engine is a 4 inch bore. Also, the heads are 2+ inches thicker than the plate.

Spacers, although I don't know how much difference it will make.

on the small blocks I have done there are spacers, and i believe to have the required effect on the studs / bolts you need to stretch them accordingly. So if you need to cut some tube up the thickness of the rockers, then thats what ya have to do.

Put a head on it with the rocker assembly torque down , use a dial bore gauge through the bottom of the cylinders to check the roundness. then do the same thing with the torque plate using spacers I use to hone 340 from the bottom with both heads torque down on them , I always torque the mains and oil filter adapter along with the motor mounts also, some guys install and torque the SB water pump timing covers also

My old Ford Machinist torqued the Scattershield in place along with the Torque plates, said the back bores o the windsor distort from the back of the block as well.

Thanks Dan. I was reading over on Speed Talk, and that seemed to be the detail that kept came up.

And if you want the final degree of anal you seal everything up and pump 195 deg (or whatever your projected operating temp is) water thru the block while honing it.

Kevin