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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: bigdaddywiz]
#1169876
02/05/12 08:31 AM
02/05/12 08:31 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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now we just need to get the piece that works with the rod and hooks to the bracket i will send. it will have a bolt for the slide adjustment and hook to the bellcrank some how. this is were we need another member to step up and post a pic of the missing piece at the rod end and intake bellcrank.  do you have the piece with the slide bolt from the linkage you removed from the 2-v intake set up? post a pic of the 2-v linkage if you do. maybe that piece is on the other linkage 
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/05/12 09:25 AM.
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: bigdaddywiz]
#1169878
02/05/12 06:38 PM
02/05/12 06:38 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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ding ding ding we have the missing part  just swap that piece with the bolt over to the bracket i send you,at most you would need to bolt 2 of the flat bars together. i will just send 1 flat bar and you can use that one in the pic to bolt 2 together. you can pull the whole U shaped bar/bellcrank off with the adjuster block/u-bolt/washers/hairpins when you get it bolted up and ready to measure the flat bars for correct length,you pull the rod all the way forward and hold it,close up all the adjustment in the slide and snug it down. then with it all held forward,just make the slot in the flat bar touch the throttle stud.. with the adjustment closed up,this will give max adjustment raiseing the shift points and line pressure. i think you have it now buddy  i will get the bracket out in the AM for you and you will soon have it ready and working with the carb you have. post up pics as you go putting it on and adjusting the rod out. give a shout if you need help with the 2 flat bars and getting the length right 
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 02/05/12 06:42 PM.
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1169879
02/06/12 01:03 AM
02/06/12 01:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
OP
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Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
ding ding ding we have the missing part
just swap that piece with the bolt over to the bracket i send you,at most you would need to bolt 2 of the flat bars together.
i will just send 1 flat bar and you can use that one in the pic to bolt 2 together.
you can pull the whole U shaped bar/bellcrank off with the adjuster block/u-bolt/washers/hairpins
when you get it bolted up and ready to measure the flat bars for correct length,you pull the rod all the way forward and hold it,close up all the adjustment in the slide and snug it down.
then with it all held forward,just make the slot in the flat bar touch the throttle stud..
with the adjustment closed up,this will give max adjustment raiseing the shift points and line pressure.
i think you have it now buddy
i will get the bracket out in the AM for you and you will soon have it ready and working with the carb you have.
post up pics as you go putting it on and adjusting the rod out.
give a shout if you need help with the 2 flat bars and getting the length right
cant say it enough, but THANK YOU!
you are a big help, and i really appreciate all the trouble you've gone through to help! 
let me know what that shipping is and how much you want for everything!
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: bigdaddywiz]
#1169880
02/07/12 07:20 PM
02/07/12 07:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,270
Missouri
MY340
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,270
Missouri
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Here's my homemade setup. Scratch gave me the linkage rod from some Mopar and I modified it with a Lowes turnbuckle using it as the adjustment. A little bit of cutting, threading and welding. Took the spring off to show it better.
1970 FE5 Duster 360/904/3.91's SOLD
1973 TB3 SpaceDuster 340/4spd/4.10's SOLD
Moparless for now but when the opportunity is right I'll have another one.
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1169882
02/13/12 02:26 AM
02/13/12 02:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
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Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
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ok, scratch, i got the bracket and with some imagination, i think i got it all to work! if you look close at the pics below, i had to use only the one side of the bracket that pivots with the linkage because it didnt line up. that post on the carb sticks waaay out there! its a little flimsy but it seems to work.
also, you'll notice the throttle cable is kinda crooked, but it still works.
the slotted rod wasnt long enough, so i drilled a hole in the one, and bolted a second one as an extension to be able to reach the rod on the carb. it all fits together and i really wont know how it shifts until the spring when i take the car out from winter storage.
now a quick question, is the kickdown rod supposed to move the entire range as throttle is applied? if i remember correctly, when it was stock before i installed this 340 intake/4bbl carb, it only engaged the rod when it was at or near WOT. i saw some videos on youtube of it moving the entire range, which makes sense, but i just want to make sure i got this right. it may have never been adjusted correctly?
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: bigdaddywiz]
#1169886
02/13/12 10:12 AM
02/13/12 10:12 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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looks close,yes it needs to move the whole range as the throttle moves it moves at same time,if there is any throttle movement and the TP linkage does NOT move it is misadjusted. trim the flat bar so it is out of the wat of the throttle stud and get another bolt in it so it will not pivot.it will make it more solid...just cut the slot off the one and add another bolt should fix that up. take some pliers and bent the clamp that hold the throttle cable upward some to help aline it. I have mine bent al most straight up so it it looks like it clamps from the side. you now look like its in the ballpark remember to close up the slack in the adjustment on the bell crank to the shortest setting,then make the rod to carb the length you need,that way when you drive it you can adjust the slot on the rod end to make it longer...this will make the rpm/shift points go up stretching the gears out a little trick is not to go to much as it will cause it to have a slow down shift when at light throttle..ect. some fine tunneing is needed now when you test drive it you can push it back with no binding with the carb throttle not moveing correct? you can move the throttle and linkage moves at same time/distance with no binding correct? I think you got it now
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1169888
02/13/12 11:06 AM
02/13/12 11:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
looks close,yes it needs to move the whole range as the throttle moves it moves at same time,if there is any throttle movement and the TP linkage does NOT move it is misadjusted.
as it is right now, the rod moves every bit as the throttle does.
Quote:
trim the flat bar so it is out of the wat of the throttle stud and get another bolt in it so it will not pivot.it will make it more solid...just cut the slot off the one and add another bolt should fix that up.
the way i have the two flat pieces bolted together, there is only enough space for the stud to fit through, so it doesnt have the opportunity to "slide" along the stud in the opposite direction...if that makes sense. i'll get you a pic later when i get home from work.
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take some pliers and bent the clamp that hold the throttle cable upward some to help aline it.
I have mine bent al most straight up so it it looks like it clamps from the side.
thats a good idea, i'll heat it up and bend it up.
Quote:
remember to close up the slack in the adjustment on the bell crank to the shortest setting,then make the rod to carb the length you need,that way when you drive it you can adjust the slot on the rod end to make it longer...this will make the rpm/shift points go up stretching the gears out a little
trick is not to go to much as it will cause it to have a slow down shift when at light throttle..ect.
the way it sits now, the rod that attaches to the trans is all they way out at closed throttle...as soon as i apply throttle, it starts to move the rod, applying pressure to the trans. is that the adjustment you are referring to?
Quote:
you can push it back with no binding with the carb throttle not moveing correct?
you can move the throttle and linkage moves at same time/distance with no binding correct?
it would if i opened up the other end of that flat piece. the way i have the two flat pieces together only leaves enough room for the stud to fit through, so it moves any time the stud moves, forward and back. i suppose i could cut the front most part of the flat piece, but i didnt think that was necessary since when the throttle is closed, the rod should be moved back too, right?
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1169889
02/13/12 11:15 AM
02/13/12 11:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
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Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
you need to flip the u-shaped bellcrank piece around so it is supported by both holes in the bracket.
i would if i could, but it wouldnt reach the stud when i had the bell crank u-shaped piece in the proper spot. tried it both ways. that stud is so far out to the side that this was the only way i could get it to line up. everything moves smoothly though.
Quote:
you need to slide the slot in the rod to the other end of the gap you have to start with. as it is it is adjusted all the way out.
the rod is all the way out the way it is now when the throttle is closed.
Quote:
may have to do some mods to it to get it to fit better,it gonna be weak with just the one end in the one hole on the bracket.
once the flat peice that goes to the stud is in place, it actually straightens things up pretty well and takes some of the slop out of not having the u shaped bell crank hooked into both holes.
maybe if i could take a quick video of it moving and send it to you somehow? maybe i'll put it on you tube...
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1169891
02/13/12 01:55 PM
02/13/12 01:55 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,043
State of Confusion
hp383
Just a normal tag again
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Just a normal tag again
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,043
State of Confusion
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Quote:
you may want to bend a off set in the flat bars so you can get the bellcrank in both holes.
I agree, a nice Z bar style bend will get you there.
I have never seen a carb stud stick out that far, that is odd. Was this maybe off of a manual trans car at some point?
Another thought, can the linkage stud on the carb be turned 180, and point towards the carb? then linkage and throttle could all connect to the long side?
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: hp383]
#1169892
02/13/12 11:09 PM
02/13/12 11:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
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Pittsburgh, PA
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ok guys, i kinda went back to square one with the bracket. i got my original bracket and figured i'd try it with stacks of washers to raise it up so it clears the intake. i thought since this was the original bracket that the rod and throttle cable would mount to it no problem, which it did. the only thing that i have to do to get it functional is ream out the throttle cable clip that attaches to the carb post. thats the other thing i had to do...like hp383 suggested, i flipped the post 180* and that allowed the link to line up and the throttle cable to line up, but like i said, i just gotta ream out the throttle clip so it slides over the thicker side. scratch, i tried to align the flat part of the rod in the middle of the bellcrank like you said, but when i move the rod forward to try and adjust it in the middle and operate the throttle, it hits the bellcrank at almost WOT because i'm assuming the 4bbl has more action to it over the the 2bbl that i took off. if i move it all the way out, its fine. what will be the downside to that? here is a video of it moving: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPZLC64NdWc
73 Road Runner
09 Challenger R/T
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Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question
[Re: bigdaddywiz]
#1169893
02/13/12 11:10 PM
02/13/12 11:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 124
Pittsburgh, PA
bigdaddywiz
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Pittsburgh, PA
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what i noticed scratch, after comparing the bracket you sent me and the stock bracket was the bell crank holes (where the U shaped pivot point sits) is further away from the carb and not on the flat "mount" point thats on the manifold. see how the stocker sits right on top of that...
Last edited by bigdaddywiz; 02/14/12 12:15 AM.
73 Road Runner
09 Challenger R/T
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