Moparts

kickdown bracket/linkage question

Posted By: bigdaddywiz

kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/01/12 02:50 PM

i did a 340 intake/4bbl swap onto my 73 road runner with a 318/2bbl with a 904 transmission.

the bracket for the 318 will not fit the 340 manifold, so i tried the lokar cable...well that doesnt work either because the Holley 4bbl i have is the original one that came with the 340 intake and doesnt have the bracket on the carb itself for the cable to hook to.

instead of trying to fabricate something or get another carb, i am willing to just try and find an original kickdown bracket for a 340 4bbl, which i'm finding is harder than expected.

this brings up a few questions for me:

1. can i use the kickdown rod that was on my car mated to the 904 transmission with a different bracket or will i have to look for that part too?

2. there are so many variations, which applications would work for my situation? for example, can i search for 360 4bbl linkages or just 340 sized linkages?

3. i saw on ebay a 2 piece linkage listed that came off a 79 aspen that says will work for a 318 to 340 4bbl swap...anyone know if it will work for my car? my kickdown rod is one piece.

i'm not the most experienced with this stuff, and some of you might remember me asking about this problem last summer on the board, but i'm still stuck and could use some guidance please.

Thanks!
Posted By: bboogieart

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/01/12 03:18 PM

First, I would start with contacting Lokar or Holley to see if they have adapters for your carb to mate with the cable. This is because you have already bought the cable.
Next I just used a longer piece to reach the linkage on the Holley. I actually used one from a /6 it's a little curved on the front end but works fine with my set-up. Can't swear it will work on your set up but I have read of several guys that just welded two together to get the length they needed. This also leads me to believe that all you need is a longer piece. Hope this helps.
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/01/12 04:24 PM

I have some throttle brackets

what kickdown do you need?

3 piece or a one piece?

post a pic of the intake carb a little further back.

what car is this again?
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/01/12 04:44 PM

i will post pics as soon as i get home from work...

i believe this is considered a 3 piece bracket, but the rod is one solid piece.

this is a 73 road runner with a 318 and 904. i installed a 340 manifold with a 4bbl holley that came with it (old style carb).

like i said, i'll get pics asap

thank you!

Quote:

I have some throttle brackets

what kickdown do you need?

3 piece or a one piece?

post a pic of the intake carb a little further back.

what car is this again?

Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/01/12 10:54 PM

I forgot where we left off talking last time,sorry.

the intake bracket you have now that wont fit,what 2 bolts does it want to go on when it mounts on the intake?

IIRC you will need a bracket that jumps over the intake runners and goes on the bolts next to the runners each side.

I will dig up the brackets and pop some pics for you as well.

IIRC the 1 piece 73-74 TP linkage has the adjustment right at the intake bracket pivot point.

you need the bracket that fits the intake and the 1 piece rod set up you have,maybe it will then work.

make another post asking for 73-74 SB 4-v linkage set ups and see what a stock set up looks like... see if anyone has converted to a 3-piece on that body style
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/02/12 02:49 PM

Quote:

I forgot where we left off talking last time,sorry.

the intake bracket you have now that wont fit,what 2 bolts does it want to go on when it mounts on the intake?

IIRC you will need a bracket that jumps over the intake runners and goes on the bolts next to the runners each side.

I will dig up the brackets and pop some pics for you as well.

IIRC the 1 piece 73-74 TP linkage has the adjustment right at the intake bracket pivot point.

you need the bracket that fits the intake and the 1 piece rod set up you have,maybe it will then work.

make another post asking for 73-74 SB 4-v linkage set ups and see what a stock set up looks like... see if anyone has converted to a 3-piece on that body style



thanks buddy, i really appreciate the help!

attached is a picture of my carb. you are correct that i need one that clears the intake and it bolts to the second to last bolt, and the next one over which would be 3rd to last.

its holley 6210 model 4165, 650cfm spreadbore manual double pumper

so i should post in the Q and A board for that setup, you meant just for pics right?

Attached picture 7049739-6760393-0802012244a.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/02/12 04:24 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I forgot where we left off talking last time,sorry.

the intake bracket you have now that wont fit,what 2 bolts does it want to go on when it mounts on the intake?

IIRC you will need a bracket that jumps over the intake runners and goes on the bolts next to the runners each side.

I will dig up the brackets and pop some pics for you as well.

IIRC the 1 piece 73-74 TP linkage has the adjustment right at the intake bracket pivot point.

you need the bracket that fits the intake and the 1 piece rod set up you have,maybe it will then work.

make another post asking for 73-74 SB 4-v linkage set ups and see what a stock set up looks like... see if anyone has converted to a 3-piece on that body style



thanks buddy, i really appreciate the help!

attached is a picture of my carb. you are correct that i need one that clears the intake and it bolts to the second to last bolt, and the next one over which would be 3rd to last.

its holley 6210 model 4165, 650cfm spreadbore manual double pumper

so i should post in the Q and A board for that setup, you meant just for pics right?



yes, Q&A board asking for pics of a stock 73-74 318/340/360 4-v set up and what ever stock carb came on it.

seems another carb would be the ez-est thing to do also, IIRC thats a mopar throttle lever thats on it but then again I am not sure.

my 6210/4165 650 spredbore DP has a different lever and will use a holley/chrysler throttle adaptor.

is the idea of another carb out for you?

I know you have $ sunk in it now but maybe an option to ez the pain.

I may have one you can have if it will help.

Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/02/12 05:51 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I forgot where we left off talking last time,sorry.

the intake bracket you have now that wont fit,what 2 bolts does it want to go on when it mounts on the intake?

IIRC you will need a bracket that jumps over the intake runners and goes on the bolts next to the runners each side.

I will dig up the brackets and pop some pics for you as well.

IIRC the 1 piece 73-74 TP linkage has the adjustment right at the intake bracket pivot point.

you need the bracket that fits the intake and the 1 piece rod set up you have,maybe it will then work.

make another post asking for 73-74 SB 4-v linkage set ups and see what a stock set up looks like... see if anyone has converted to a 3-piece on that body style



thanks buddy, i really appreciate the help!

attached is a picture of my carb. you are correct that i need one that clears the intake and it bolts to the second to last bolt, and the next one over which would be 3rd to last.

its holley 6210 model 4165, 650cfm spreadbore manual double pumper

so i should post in the Q and A board for that setup, you meant just for pics right?



yes, Q&A board asking for pics of a stock 73-74 318/340/360 4-v set up and what ever stock carb came on it.

seems another carb would be the ez-est thing to do also, IIRC thats a mopar throttle lever thats on it but then again I am not sure.

my 6210/4165 650 spredbore DP has a different lever and will use a holley/chrysler throttle adaptor.

is the idea of another carb out for you?

I know you have $ sunk in it now but maybe an option to ez the pain.

I may have one you can have if it will help.





Another carb isn't out of the question...I just don't want to spend too much more on this.

What kind of carb is it that you can part with and does it need anything?

Thanks again!
Posted By: Paul_Fancsali

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/02/12 09:25 PM

Come out to the south hills and I will show you how to make it work. You need the holley extension and I have the correct bracket and a kickdown rod that is off a Dodge trk little welding and your set
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/02/12 10:00 PM

Quote:

Come out to the south hills and I will show you how to make it work. You need the holley extension and I have the correct bracket and a kickdown rod that is off a Dodge trk little welding and your set



unless there is another holley/chrysler/mopar adaptor that bolts to that style holley throttle lever am am not seeing how you will use it on that carb.

I guess one could swap the throttle lever and tac weld another on...I do that to the q-jets and mopat throttle levers for truck linkage.

Posted By: Paul_Fancsali

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/03/12 12:27 AM

If that is the case gettinga proper bracket should align to the carb and allow theuseof lokar cable
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/03/12 01:05 AM

Quote:

If that is the case gettinga proper bracket should align to the carb and allow theuseof lokar cable



Right now I am using an aftermarket high rise adjustable bracket which properly aligns the throttle cable, but only has fittings for the lokar cable, but as we know, doesn't work with my carb.

I have no welding skills so am I just going to have to get another carb and be done with this?
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/03/12 04:04 PM

do you have your old post saved from last summer?

IIRC John Kunkle said what type carb throttle lever it has,early mopar maybe.

sent you a PM

post the # from your carb again,lets see what it for.

I know mine is the same thing but list for chebby with a chebby throttle arm,the holley adaptor will bolt to it unlike yours.

which to me with the mopar throttle stud looks stock mopar and should work with some sort of stock linkage set up.

Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 04:54 PM

ok,dug up some brackets out of the shed.

i have the tall 4-v bracket that should bolt to the intake,and the flat bar hook to the stud on the carb you have now.

I will post a pic of 2 flat rods,i am holding them together,you drill 2 holes and bolt them together to make the flat bar longer if needed(which i think you will need to do)

you 1 piece rod should go right on to this bellcrank,may have to figure inside or out on the bellcrank. (i took pic of the mock up rod on either side if you look close at the pics to see how it goes on the bellcrank)

my LD4B is slightly taller at the runners inbetween the bolts,but this bracke is the same on my stock 4-v intake and fits both...most times the carb flat bar needs to be longer but fits)i will get this bracket and 2 flat bars on the way to you Monday,then we can go from there when you get it bolted to the intake and see were we are at hooking up the flat rods to the carb stud.

Attached picture 7053029-TPR1.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 04:56 PM

another shot

Attached picture 7053033-TPR2.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 04:57 PM

and another shot

look at the 1st pic and this pic...

see how i turned the bellcrank around and changed the way the flat bar and linkage rod went on.

try both ways to see which way works best for you.

on my SB the LD4B/eddy carb went 1 way...on the stock intake with stock q-jet it flips around the other way.

the eddy used the mopar adaptor and needed 2 flat bar bolted together,the stock intake/q-jet flips the other way and fits with 1 flat bar...as this is stock for a truck with a q-jet in 85.

the flat bar can go on either side of the rod,which ever fits best is the way i do it.



Attached picture 7053035-TPR3.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 05:02 PM

last one for now

Attached picture 7053039-TPR4.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 05:07 PM

now what i need a pic of is your linkage rod where it hooks to the intake bracket.

IIRC it has a bolt in a slide that at the bell crank and has a flat bar to the carb stud.

i would like to see just how it hooked to the bracket and make sure it has the same U shaped bellcrank piece.

i thinking it should hook right to the U shaped piece and fix you right up and look stock with your carb.

looks are ok but function is key to it working right to save the trans and shift properly.

make sure to get a shot of your stock 2-v intake bracket where the rod hooks up also.

your turn now
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 05:19 PM

here is a 3 piece set up that member streetkit has in the SB for sale section and may indeed work on your car also(which would be way ez if there is enuff room to use it at the firewall and is much better sooted for 2-v to 4-v swaps)

i bought this set up for a 440 truck from member streetkit,same price.

if all else fails you could swap it to a 3 piece set up.

what you have is a one piece set up,they dont go by how many piece are on the bracket like yours...its 1 rod or 3 rods 2 bellcranks

i have all most a full set and the other rods could be made up from scratch..I have done that befroe as well.



Attached picture 7053069-3pieceSBtpr.jpg
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 09:25 PM

hopefully these pics show you what you need to see!

for this one, i moved the linkage rod end on the other side of the bracket to show you where it sits fully extended out. it was easier to move it to that side to get a better picture. i guess it really wouldnt matter what side its on..as long as it lines up correctly...

Attached picture 7053447-1.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/04/12 09:28 PM

another


Attached picture 7053452-2.JPG
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/05/12 12:31 PM

now we just need to get the piece that works with the rod and hooks to the bracket i will send.

it will have a bolt for the slide adjustment and hook to the bellcrank some how.

this is were we need another member to step up and post a pic of the missing piece at the rod end and intake bellcrank.



do you have the piece with the slide bolt from the linkage you removed from the 2-v intake set up?

post a pic of the 2-v linkage if you do.

maybe that piece is on the other linkage
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/05/12 06:52 PM

here is my original bracket for the 2bbl:

Attached picture 7054908-1.JPG
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/05/12 10:38 PM

ding ding ding we have the missing part

just swap that piece with the bolt over to the bracket i send you,at most you would need to bolt 2 of the flat bars together.

i will just send 1 flat bar and you can use that one in the pic to bolt 2 together.

you can pull the whole U shaped bar/bellcrank off with the adjuster block/u-bolt/washers/hairpins

when you get it bolted up and ready to measure the flat bars for correct length,you pull the rod all the way forward and hold it,close up all the adjustment in the slide and snug it down.

then with it all held forward,just make the slot in the flat bar touch the throttle stud..

with the adjustment closed up,this will give max adjustment raiseing the shift points and line pressure.

i think you have it now buddy

i will get the bracket out in the AM for you and you will soon have it ready and working with the carb you have.

post up pics as you go putting it on and adjusting the rod out.

give a shout if you need help with the 2 flat bars and getting the length right
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/06/12 05:03 AM

Quote:

ding ding ding we have the missing part

just swap that piece with the bolt over to the bracket i send you,at most you would need to bolt 2 of the flat bars together.

i will just send 1 flat bar and you can use that one in the pic to bolt 2 together.

you can pull the whole U shaped bar/bellcrank off with the adjuster block/u-bolt/washers/hairpins

when you get it bolted up and ready to measure the flat bars for correct length,you pull the rod all the way forward and hold it,close up all the adjustment in the slide and snug it down.

then with it all held forward,just make the slot in the flat bar touch the throttle stud..

with the adjustment closed up,this will give max adjustment raiseing the shift points and line pressure.

i think you have it now buddy

i will get the bracket out in the AM for you and you will soon have it ready and working with the carb you have.

post up pics as you go putting it on and adjusting the rod out.

give a shout if you need help with the 2 flat bars and getting the length right



cant say it enough, but THANK YOU!

you are a big help, and i really appreciate all the trouble you've gone through to help!

let me know what that shipping is and how much you want for everything!
Posted By: MY340

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/07/12 11:20 PM

Here's my homemade setup. Scratch gave me the linkage rod from some Mopar and I modified it with a Lowes turnbuckle using it as the adjustment. A little bit of cutting, threading and welding. Took the spring off to show it better.

Attached picture 7059113-IMAG0005.jpg
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/07/12 11:48 PM


i remeber that
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 06:26 AM

ok, scratch, i got the bracket and with some imagination, i think i got it all to work! if you look close at the pics below, i had to use only the one side of the bracket that pivots with the linkage because it didnt line up. that post on the carb sticks waaay out there! its a little flimsy but it seems to work.

also, you'll notice the throttle cable is kinda crooked, but it still works.

the slotted rod wasnt long enough, so i drilled a hole in the one, and bolted a second one as an extension to be able to reach the rod on the carb. it all fits together and i really wont know how it shifts until the spring when i take the car out from winter storage.

now a quick question, is the kickdown rod supposed to move the entire range as throttle is applied? if i remember correctly, when it was stock before i installed this 340 intake/4bbl carb, it only engaged the rod when it was at or near WOT. i saw some videos on youtube of it moving the entire range, which makes sense, but i just want to make sure i got this right. it may have never been adjusted correctly?

Attached picture 7069004-1.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 06:28 AM

...

Attached picture 7069006-2.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 06:30 AM

.

Attached picture 7069007-3.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 06:31 AM

.....

Attached picture 7069010-4.JPG
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 02:12 PM

looks close,yes it needs to move the whole range as the throttle moves it moves at same time,if there is any throttle movement and the TP linkage does NOT move it is misadjusted.

trim the flat bar so it is out of the wat of the throttle stud and get another bolt in it so it will not pivot.it will make it more solid...just cut the slot off the one and add another bolt should fix that up.

take some pliers and bent the clamp that hold the throttle cable upward some to help aline it.

I have mine bent al most straight up so it it looks like it clamps from the side.

you now look like its in the ballpark

remember to close up the slack in the adjustment on the bell crank to the shortest setting,then make the rod to carb the length you need,that way when you drive it you can adjust the slot on the rod end to make it longer...this will make the rpm/shift points go up stretching the gears out a little

trick is not to go to much as it will cause it to have a slow down shift when at light throttle..ect.

some fine tunneing is needed now when you test drive it

you can push it back with no binding with the carb throttle not moveing correct?

you can move the throttle and linkage moves at same time/distance with no binding correct?

I think you got it now
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 02:19 PM

you need to flip the u-shaped bellcrank piece around so it is supported by both holes in the bracket.

you need to slide the slot in the rod to the other end of the gap you have to start with. as it is it is adjusted all the way out.

may have to do some mods to it to get it to fit better,it gonna be weak with just the one end in the one hole on the bracket.

a few tweeks and it should get better angles.
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 03:06 PM

Quote:

looks close,yes it needs to move the whole range as the throttle moves it moves at same time,if there is any throttle movement and the TP linkage does NOT move it is misadjusted.



as it is right now, the rod moves every bit as the throttle does.

Quote:

trim the flat bar so it is out of the wat of the throttle stud and get another bolt in it so it will not pivot.it will make it more solid...just cut the slot off the one and add another bolt should fix that up.



the way i have the two flat pieces bolted together, there is only enough space for the stud to fit through, so it doesnt have the opportunity to "slide" along the stud in the opposite direction...if that makes sense. i'll get you a pic later when i get home from work.

Quote:

take some pliers and bent the clamp that hold the throttle cable upward some to help aline it.

I have mine bent al most straight up so it it looks like it clamps from the side.



thats a good idea, i'll heat it up and bend it up.

Quote:

remember to close up the slack in the adjustment on the bell crank to the shortest setting,then make the rod to carb the length you need,that way when you drive it you can adjust the slot on the rod end to make it longer...this will make the rpm/shift points go up stretching the gears out a little

trick is not to go to much as it will cause it to have a slow down shift when at light throttle..ect.



the way it sits now, the rod that attaches to the trans is all they way out at closed throttle...as soon as i apply throttle, it starts to move the rod, applying pressure to the trans. is that the adjustment you are referring to?

Quote:

you can push it back with no binding with the carb throttle not moveing correct?

you can move the throttle and linkage moves at same time/distance with no binding correct?



it would if i opened up the other end of that flat piece. the way i have the two flat pieces together only leaves enough room for the stud to fit through, so it moves any time the stud moves, forward and back. i suppose i could cut the front most part of the flat piece, but i didnt think that was necessary since when the throttle is closed, the rod should be moved back too, right?



Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 03:15 PM

Quote:

you need to flip the u-shaped bellcrank piece around so it is supported by both holes in the bracket.



i would if i could, but it wouldnt reach the stud when i had the bell crank u-shaped piece in the proper spot. tried it both ways. that stud is so far out to the side that this was the only way i could get it to line up. everything moves smoothly though.

Quote:

you need to slide the slot in the rod to the other end of the gap you have to start with. as it is it is adjusted all the way out.



the rod is all the way out the way it is now when the throttle is closed.

Quote:

may have to do some mods to it to get it to fit better,it gonna be weak with just the one end in the one hole on the bracket.


once the flat peice that goes to the stud is in place, it actually straightens things up pretty well and takes some of the slop out of not having the u shaped bell crank hooked into both holes.

maybe if i could take a quick video of it moving and send it to you somehow? maybe i'll put it on you tube...


Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 04:32 PM

you may want to bend a off set in the flat bars so you can get the bellcrank in both holes.

the off set would move the end out to the carb stud and move the rod.bellcrank bak over where it needs to be.

I will study the pic some more and see what up with the slot on the 2 flat bars.

the bolt in the bell crank/rod slot needs to be on the other end of the slot to start and you would adjust it to get it to move the direction it is in now..right now its at max adjustment.

you need to close that gap up for min adjustment to start.

in a perfect world you want that bolt some where in the middle of that slot on the rod from trans.

I think it would be ez to weld a rod to a short piece of the first flat rod,then bend a off set to line them up correct,the use a threded slot adjuster at the carb stud.

I would look in a JY at a van to rob the long rod and adjuster slot piece, the chop/weld it into place...this would give you more adjustment to work with than just the slot on the rod from trans.


i can scratch up a rod maybe and weld a flat bar to it maybe on my end and send it.
Posted By: hp383

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/13/12 05:55 PM

Quote:

you may want to bend a off set in the flat bars so you can get the bellcrank in both holes.



I agree, a nice Z bar style bend will get you there.

I have never seen a carb stud stick out that far, that is odd. Was this maybe off of a manual trans car at some point?

Another thought, can the linkage stud on the carb be turned 180, and point towards the carb? then linkage and throttle could all connect to the long side?
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 03:09 AM

ok guys, i kinda went back to square one with the bracket. i got my original bracket and figured i'd try it with stacks of washers to raise it up so it clears the intake. i thought since this was the original bracket that the rod and throttle cable would mount to it no problem, which it did. the only thing that i have to do to get it functional is ream out the throttle cable clip that attaches to the carb post. thats the other thing i had to do...like hp383 suggested, i flipped the post 180* and that allowed the link to line up and the throttle cable to line up, but like i said, i just gotta ream out the throttle clip so it slides over the thicker side.

scratch, i tried to align the flat part of the rod in the middle of the bellcrank like you said, but when i move the rod forward to try and adjust it in the middle and operate the throttle, it hits the bellcrank at almost WOT because i'm assuming the 4bbl has more action to it over the the 2bbl that i took off. if i move it all the way out, its fine. what will be the downside to that?

here is a video of it moving:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPZLC64NdWc

Attached picture 7070246-1.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 03:10 AM

what i noticed scratch, after comparing the bracket you sent me and the stock bracket was the bell crank holes (where the U shaped pivot point sits) is further away from the carb and not on the flat "mount" point thats on the manifold. see how the stocker sits right on top of that...

Attached picture 7070250-2.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 03:11 AM

......................

Attached picture 7070252-3.JPG
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 03:12 AM

here is a closer look at the flat piece that attaches to the bell crank and carb post so you can see what i did. will this pose any problem?

Attached picture 7070254-4.JPG
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 12:58 PM

with the flat bar makeing the hole stationary,IMO is not good,more chance of it hanging the throttle open,thats why it made to move independant of the throttle stud and purpose of the slot in the bar..

what i would do is build a rod with a offset in it,use a short piece of the flat bar welded to the rod end to hook to the bell crank.

then a adjustable end for the carb stud.

this will make the adjustment at the bellcrank void and you can leave it where it is not hitting and has more travel.

sorta like what MY340 did with his 3 piece set up,he just welded in the turnbuckle and made it the adjuster end.

your close.real close,i just dont like the flat bar set up and the way it locks to the throttle stud.

of corse I have had a few throttle stick Wide Open before(remeber to turn the key off when it does this)
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 02:21 PM

the 40 mile ride gave me time to think on it again,i have come up with this simple fix.

take the 2 flat bars,cut the one so it does not have the slot.

drill 2 holes to bolt them together,use a longer bolt with a stack of washer to make the off set and fit the back of the slot to the carb stud with the rod from trans pulled foward..(flip it back around like you had it first)

that will make the flat bar long enuff,move without the throttle stud and have the off set to line it up with the carb stud and the intake bracket bell crank..

very simple and no welding

you already have them bolted to gether so just spaceing them apart should work with no problems.

i would go back to the taller bracket and ditch the washer on the intake bolts.

close the slide up on the rod from trans up so,then make the flatbar with off set the length you need,this will aloow for adjustment on the bell crank like stock.

give that a try and see what it does
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/14/12 03:38 PM

Quote:

the 40 mile ride gave me time to think on it again,i have come up with this simple fix.

take the 2 flat bars,cut the one so it does not have the slot.

drill 2 holes to bolt them together,use a longer bolt with a stack of washer to make the off set and fit the back of the slot to the carb stud with the rod from trans pulled foward..(flip it back around like you had it first)

that will make the flat bar long enuff,move without the throttle stud and have the off set to line it up with the carb stud and the intake bracket bell crank..

very simple and no welding

you already have them bolted to gether so just spaceing them apart should work with no problems.

i would go back to the taller bracket and ditch the washer on the intake bolts.

close the slide up on the rod from trans up so,then make the flatbar with off set the length you need,this will aloow for adjustment on the bell crank like stock.

give that a try and see what it does



sounds good!

i'll cut the flat piece that i have bolted together to keep from the throttle sticking (thanks for the tip!) and see what i can do with the carb post and getting the throttle cable on it.

i'll hit that tonight after work...
Posted By: bigdaddywiz

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/23/12 05:25 AM

just wanted to thank everyone in the thread that helped out...especially scratch, with getting me straightened out with my kick down linkage. its all up and working. will post pics when i can. camera broke! basically just had to modify the flat rod from the carb to the bell crank and bend the tab for the throttle cable.

still havent got to drive her yet, but it appears everything will work now!
Posted By: scratchnfotraction

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/23/12 12:24 PM

glad to have helped you out with it.

Posted By: MY340

Re: kickdown bracket/linkage question - 02/24/12 08:30 PM

Make sure after you adjust your throttle linkage you should have very little/no play at the back of the rod connection/firewall with wide open throttle on the carb. I adjusted mine today as it was shifting too early out of first for my liking. Had a little too much free play and I took that freeplay out. 1st gear now shifts 5-8mph later and firmer due to the higher rpm range at light throttle.

You'll get better shift points when it's properly adjusted.
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