you will have that also.

my 85 318 from my 85 stepside had a slider cam/roller block with the #302 heads,molly rings.

my plymouth gran fury cop engine had a slider cam/roller block with 360 heads and q-jet.

is it a roller block?

if so would you like to go roller cam?

i use a lunati VooDoo roller cam with comp 901-16 springs in the 88-360 headed 318 in my 85 truck,runs strong and a great daily driver.

well I did just pull it out for a tear down and swaped the roller cam/springs over to a 91-318 with the #302 heads for the stepside now..

IMHO,roller cam is the way to go with the cam break in mojo not needed,the stock roller/valve gears works fine. mine had over 300,000 miles on it,not bad for stock valve gear.

Already committed on cam (ordered) purpleshaft R.V. 260/268 430/450 as far as it being a roller block have not seen one to be able to tell. I just know cam is not.300,000 now thats something!! Nate

A roller block has threaded bosses in the middle of the valley for attaching the roller link holddown spider.

A ridge is at the top end of the cylinder. Run your fingernail up the bore and when you feel it catch really close to the top that is the ridge. On my '86 318 the ridge is minimal and mostly varnish. You need to get the ridge out so you won't break your rings when you slip the pistons into the block. I think mine are going to clean up with thinner and some hard rubbing. If your block has a ridge it is removed with a device called a ridge reamer. BEWARE!!! It is quite easy to take out more than necessary. the bottom of the ridge is the top of ring travel. If you cut into the ring travel area you'll be needing new pistons and an overbore. So you have to go really easy.

One thing you said...Line-honing on a relatively stock 318 build? Did the crank turn OK? Were the mains in pretty good shape? This is not a common step for a nearly stock rebuild. Others chime in here, but it just isn't something I expect to see.


I buy most of my 318 rings on the 'bay. Name brand stuff, better than retail prices.

R.

I'll have to check block out as far as roller or not.crank is still in bearings I checked were o.k just saying I don't want this to snowball into a $1000 rebuild.was planning on changing bottom end 1 at a time not totally dismantaling the engine if you follow me.there is a small ridge nothing alittle scotch brite won't clean up I think. thanks,nate

I would suggest a light cutting with a rented ridge reamer. Put a box end wrench on the center and pull the cutter around so the blade is always trailing your wrench. Use WD40. Do not remove all of the ridge as it does not cut concentric and if you remove all then it will be too far in some areas. Trick is PATIENCE and moving your body around the block multiple times so you are always direct line pulling the cutter toward you. push down on the center to hold the cutter flush to the top deck. Stop/check many times.

Thats what mine is....85 truck engine and if roller motor means the 3 threaded bosses above cam thats what I have.Nate

thats the way my 85 truck engine was and the 88-360 headed 4-v cop engine.

i used a lunati voodoo roller cam with stock 91 318 roller gear..

roller lifters
dogbones
spider
pushrods
rockers

and poped on a set of comp 901-16 springs

just swaped it all over to another 91 318 JY engine and running fine in the 85 stepside.

no break in is the big plus on all my junk

I've done a few re-ring jobs and never used a ridge reamer. I took the old pistons out the top, honed the entire cylinder with my drill mounted hone/deglazer, cleaned and oiled the cylinders and put it back together.

That is my plan also....I went forward and used some paitence and some 120 emory cloth and removed ridge. Could have bought a ridge reamer for $60 but it was so minim. that emory took care of it.Now with cast rings hone with 120 right? thanks, Nate