I'm building a budget hemi motor for my 65 coronet , low cost, reliable, good power. I see Bill Mitchell has the aluminum world hemi block 4.90 bare block (not fully prepped) w/o lifter bores drilled for $2995. +$250 shipping. That's cheap..

Should I get that and pay for the lifters and prepping or go with a fully prepped block for a LOT more money.
I'm thinking the machine shop can do the prepping AND make sure all is right at the same time.

What is the typical cost for the lifters to be bored and prepping the bare block?
As several here have suggested my motor will have a flat tappet cam off the shelf stroker kit and get a decent set of heads for now.
The goal is to run mid to high 10s for FUN nostalgia events.

Attached is a pic of the car. Now that it looks fast I have to make it run fast!.
Thanks all
Don

wild guess here...cost me $500 to bush the lifter bores...Im assuming to machine or bore lifter bores would probably be another 500 or so...could be a hundred less....

so Im going to say about $1,000 to do those complete..

and I wanted to say..at least another $350 for prep and then theres boring, honing...maybe another 800 there??

$1,000, cost similar here across the pond.

How goes it Woody

Yo Mark...long time....dont want to hawk his post...

Cheap, Hemi, Aluminum Block, low budget, all in the same sentence....LOL

If its a budget build, why not get a chrysler cast iron block? They typically go for $2900 or so, and be done with it....

PS..World was the one stating ARP main studs, and many found out they weren't. Maybe look into the cost of that if it ends up being the case as well...Line boring a Hemi is not cheap.

I think that's a good deal and I would do it. I would shop for someone to do the lifter bores. With any type of engine machining I shop for quality of work NOT price.
My first thought was you should just buy an iron block if you're trying to save money, but I do think you are on the right track going aluminum, just for the repairability issue.
You should be able to run mid to high tens with a stock 426 Hemi with a bigger cam and headers if that chassis will hook at all and you run a decent convertor. I would build it once and build it for a bit stronger performance.

Sheldon

Call Jim Kilpatrick in waukesha wi

he is the hemi guy up that way.

i know he can do all the machining in house

By the time you have all the work done, plus shipping and all that, you'll be right at what you would have spent on a Keith Black. And it won't be a Keith Black.....

S/F.....Ken M

Aren't those $2995 blocks raised cam also?
Can you get a timing chain set or would you have to get a belt drive?

Yes the block listed is a raised cam location block.
Here are the specs:

TECHNICAL SPECS
Material: 357-T6 Aluminum
Deck Height: 10.725"
Deck Thickness: .600" minimum
Cam Bearings: Stock (can be machined for 60mm)
Camshaft Location: raised +.250"
Lifter Bores: None
Bellhousing: Dual (accomodates stock and GM)
Bore: 4.490" Rough
Maximum Bore: 4.530" Larger possible but engine builder preference
Water Jackets: Expanded for better cooling
Lubrication: Priority main oiling system
Crank Clearance: 4.500"Std 4.750"max stroke (with external oil line)
Main Caps: Nodular (Ductile) Front four caps 4-bolts and crossed bolted
Fuel Pump: OEM mount
Starter: OEM mount
Motor Mounts: Dual (front and side)
Cylinder Head Holes: Blind tapped to prevent leaks
Weight: Approximately 142 lbs.

Hey joshking.
Jim K. has done a lot of work for me. He built my 440 short block and transmission for a max wedge clone I had and he has helped me out with other projects. I actually called him today about the work. He did say he has a sweet 540 hemi that is ready to go is a killer motor..........


Don

That does sound like a wise purchase.As far as the lifter bores,after reading DRAM's thread on his CNC program on lifter bore correction I would not do it any other way.I know that many machine shops have used thier "fixture" to drill & hone.The precise ability of the CNC proceedure is the only way to go.Maybe Dan will chime in with a statement.

we have the equipment to put the lifter bores in. i agree that a CNC is the most accurate and the least expensive way to do that job.

If you do go with this block and need some work done on it give the guys at goodwin compitition a call. They are doing mine now and have been great to deal with. They are in wisconsin.

Hey cudacustoms1;
Chad I tried emailimg you and the email is bad.
shoot me a PM please I have a couple of questions on your build and Godwin's
Thanks,
Don