Quote:


Are you saying you need the electric assist to keep the choke "open" once the engine is up to operating tempature?



No, in my experience, stock configuration, cast iron intake/heads, open cross-overs, heat riser working correctly or not, although choke timing was off, I’ve never seen a choke spring that wouldn’t eventually relax completely with an inop/missing choke heater or controller. With that said, the later button type controllers having the by-pass resistor, the resistor serves only one purpose and that is to allow for partial current flow to the heating element regardless of the switching taking place in the controller. At full voltage, I’ve measured about 1.6 amps of current drawn by the heater, thru the resistor this current draw dropped to around 600-700ma, again this reduced heating was present throughout the entire run cycle by factory design. Could very well be simply some kind of fail safe in the event the controller switching fails (and they did) there would still be some heat function.
I can tell you from more current first hand experience that in a NON-STOCK BB configuration with blocked cross-overs in aluminum heads, aluminum intake, correct spring tension for correct cold start/run/drivablity, the choke spring will not relax completely at normal operating temperature without this reduced extra electrical heat. Hence, the reason for the “heated six-pack choke spring” mod.

I do have another non-hp manifold stashed somewhere from a 74’ TQ equipped 440 that doesn’t have a heat riser valve as well. I spent the first year of my dealer wrenching stint back then, working the “lube rack” at a rather large Chrysler/Plymouth dealer. I’ve spayed countless cans of Mopar heat riser solvent on countless heat risers. I recall taking note then, when heat risers started to disappear from some of these cars.

1972 Road Runner GTX 440 6bbl 5-speed
[img]http://72rrgtx.com/carpics/bucket/DSC06730r-1.jpg[/img]