One important point to all of this that the system is bolted in. This can be done by most any car guy lying on his back under the car with really basic tools. Not everybody has a hoist.

I have looked at other set ups that interfere with the e-brake cables, the stock fuel lines and the brakes lines. My e-brake cables are off because of the system I had originally.

I used to have the Lakewood hoop. If any of you have ever used one you know it doesnt fit our cars. I had to cut, weld and drill it to fit. Then I had to find a spot to mount it without interfering with my seat and seat belt mounting. I ended up bolting it to the seat bolts.

My car is a street, strip and show car which is what most of the hobby is. That being said I didn't want to weld a bunch of tubes, bars and sheet metal frame ties to the car and the floor pan. Then I would have to repaint the entire bottom of the car.
The square plates with four bolts near the rockers are the backing plates for the roll bar. There is a gusset that will go from the plate to the tube on each side tying this to the roll bar. That part is welded and this installation was all the bolted together stuff. I'll post some pictures when the gussets are on (I need to finish my snowmobile first for a trip in two weeks).

I am really impressed with all the technical knowledge the here members have!! I am sure there are a million ways to do this but short of building a dedicated race car this is good way to go for a street car. If I was going to build the perfect set up it would be a chassis car just for racing but you can't take the kids for ice cream in a chassis car!!!

Some day down the road if I want to I can unbolt all the safety and race stuff, put the air grabber hood back on, put the numbers engine back in, the steel wheels back on and the car is a restored RoadRunner not a cut up race car.

P.S. There is an E-Body and A-body set up as well, none of these are on the web site, Jack said he has been busy in the shop and not working on the web site.