Yes he is correct, never put a tool to the bar that can scratch it like vise grips or pliers. A scratch can start a crack and that isn't good.

The OEM tool is great but I was too cheap to buy the tool.

My method for removing them is to remove the nuts on the strut bar and LCA pivot and pry the lower control arm back with a pry bar between the front of the LCA and the K frame. To get the LCA off the end of the T Bar if it is stuck I use a rubber mallet on the LCA socket while holding the T bar.

To install the T Bar I use two methods depending on if one doesn't work.

I will hang the LCA with the Strut in place but nuts loose and push the T Bar in from the back. To drive it home I use a rubber mallet and a wood rod like a broom handle to drive the back in.

I have also stuck the front of the T Bar through the rear and installed the LCA on the T bar. Then slid them into place with the same wood rod/rubber mallet to drive it in. That method is a bit harder because you also have to get the strut rod to cooperate as you install it. I can not remember a specific reason I did it that way but I have several times. It works well on the ISO suspension cars where the strut bar bolts to the top of the LCA not through it like the early A, Early B and E bodies.

Tool or no tool always clean out the crud in the T Bar sockets Before removing the bar and grease before installing the bar.