The sway bar info will be somewhat different since it was calculated on the kit car chassis bars, which were a little different from the stock bars. I do have an original kit car catalog somehwere in the garage. I'll dig it up and post what specs it is showing for bar length and arm length. That will at least provide the detail that will allow you to see what percent of difference exists between the stock configuration and the kit car configuration. If you know the difference, then you can approximate where your stock bars are at based on the diameter, arm and effective lengths.

I'm not sure why the torsion bars are different. They don't vary by a substantial amount, but they do differ some. Mopar Grand National racing was exclusively B body cars, so all the specs from the book are for B bodies.

120# rear spring doesn't suprise me at all for handling applciations. It is only in drag racing that high rear spring loads are really needed. When I was racing oval track, we usually ran mono leaf or three leaf set ups and used sway bars to dial in how we wanted it to handle. Since we were required to use stock parts we experimented not only with sway bar size, but quantities as well. At one point we had two smaller sway bars stacked on top of each other to get the best percentage. Creative interpretation of the rules at its best.

If you and your friend want to see how dialed in your cars are without the potential of hurting it or waiting for a chance to run laps on a track, you can always do a skid pad test. All you need is a parking lot big enough to lay out a 50 foot radiused circle and then run your cars around it until it slides out of the circle. I think Martin covers skid pad testing in his book if I remember correctly. Doing this will highlight whether it under steers or oversteers so you know what changes you need to make. It also will allow you to calculate how many lateral G it can generate now as well as after you make your changes.