Be SURE you get the correct backspacing! FWD and later RWD cars have front hub bearings assemblies rather than the front wheel bearings of prior RWD car. This affects backspacing and resulting fitment , even with the correct bolt pattern. The wheel pictured above appears to be a FWD wheel.

Many racing wheels might not have enough reserve "guts" for street use, other than on smooth pavement with no potholes or such. A friend had a set of lite-weight wheels on a Mustang LX 5.0L coupe he had. He ventured into a ritzy part of town one night and found a pothole (??!!) that bent the wheel. His dad was a city councilman for a neighboring city and a new wheel was paid for by the "pothole" city.

You're worried about wheel weight, understandably as that can affect ride quality, but also consider the complete wheel/tire assembly weight too.

There are some 17" tire sizes which have similar revs/mile as some 15" sizes. I've been looking at that myself as I seek to find something lighter than the heavy 15x7 factory wheels on a non-Mopar car I have, and the P225.70R-15 Radial T/As on it. There are several 17" sizes which closely-approximate the revs/mile spec of the current tires. The revs/mile specs can be found in the respective tire charts at www.tirerack.com, usually. Might need to check different tire brands, but they are usually there.

If "rotational weight" is an issue, an aluminum or composite drive shaft might be an alternative.

CBODY67


66-CL42, 67-CE23, 70-DH43 Each under about 25K built. Numbers decrease with options and colors! How'd I manage that?