Hold that end of the pad in the air while using your other hand to wipe it back down. This will prevent wrinkles and creases. Wrinkles under direct butt pressure can break the electrical connection in the heater.
Do the same thing for the other side of the pad.

Now, grab the seat cover and find the steel rod that went into the crease. Align it with the crease and poke holes just above the bar for the zip ties. Do not punch holes in the seat cover itself, just the little bit holding the bar to the cover. Starting at one end, run the zip ties in the seat cushion over the bar in the cover. close the zip ties just enough to keep the cover from lifting. Work your way down the zip ties like this.



Once all 5 ties are connected, you can start pulling them tight. I tightened them in steps working across the cover to help keep the cover aligned with the cushion.



Once they're all tight reach down in the crease and snip the ends of the zip ties. Cut 'em off short so they don't poke you in the rear. Do the same when installing the passenger side too. You might find it amusing for the wife to get poked but I'm sure she won't appreciate the humor.

At this time, you can pull the cover down over the cushion. Be sure the heating pad lays flat and doesn't wrinkle.





Place the cushion back on the frame and pull the cover half way down the frame. The seat heater wire needs to run inside the frame. If you leave it on the outside you won't be able to reattach the skirt. Set the seat bottom aside and grab the lean back portion of the seat. It's time to do it all over again.

Here's a great opportunity for me to show you why you used a pencil or dry erase marker and not a permanent ink marker. The ink will bleed from the foam to the seat cover. It is possible for the seat cover to pull the ink all the way to the surface. Luckily, the stains on mine did not soak all the way through.



Be very careful when removing the seat back cover. This one has two bars running across it instead of the single like the bottom had. They fall into the two grooves in the cushion.





Lay out the heating pad for the seat back just like you did for the seat bottom. This time the wire needs to go out the bottom of the seat back. On this half of the seat I started at the bottom and worked my way up. When the pad was tucked into the cushion it stopped just short of the upper crease.



Once the pad is in place, push it into the crease and mark it like you did with the seat bottom. Pull it, snip the holes, tape it, snip more holes, place the zip ties, and spread the pad again. Tuck it back into the crease and pull the zip ties through. Expose the adhesive and tape the heating pad down.
Roll the cover back down over the head rest and get it snug. Again, be sure you don't wrinkle the heating pad. You can then attach the top bar of the cover to the top bar in the cushion using hog rings. If you leave any wrinkles in the cover above that rod you will not get them out. A little care is handy here.
Slide the cover down to the second bar. This is the one going through the heating pad. Use the plastic zip ties to hold the cover to the cushion.

If your seat has more than one bar that will be covered by the heating pad, treat it just like the first one. You have to tuck it, cut holes, tape it, and zip tie it in both locations so the seat cover will fit properly.

Roll the cover over the rest of the seat back and you'll have something like this.



I poked the wire out beside the cover just inboard of the reclining mechanism. It is below the moving parts and will not get pinched, pulled, or cut in this location.




Now it's time to reassemble the seat. On this one, you have to slide the reclining mechanism back into the seat bottom.