Once the cover is loose, lift the skirt and remove the two bolts holding the reclining mechanism to the seat bottom. There's no spring tension on this part unless you're playing with the release lever.



The other side of the seat simply has a stud poking into a bushing. You need to pull the seat back off the stud and lift the seat back off the seat bottom. Put the seat back to the side for now.



Assuming you pulled all the hog rings off the bottom of the seat you can simply lift the cushion and cover off the frame. Set the frame aside so you can work on the cushion.
Carefully pull the cover off the cushion. Go slow because the cover has a bar running through the middle of it. It's held to a matching bar in the cushion with more hog rings.



If you cut these hog rings BE SURE TO GET ALL THE PIECES OUT. You don't want them poking you in the rear or shorting out the seat heater.

Once the cover is off, grab the bottom heater. It's the one with 4 wires. Two for the heater and two for the pressure sensor. Lay the bottom heater on the seat cushion with the wires running out the back. The heater can not have any deep grooves or cuts down the length of it. That could break the connections and the heater won't work. This one fits perfectly down the seat.



Poke the heater down into the groove where the steel bar runs across the cushion. Leave the rear of the heater in place and draw the material from the front of the seat. Keep everything straight. Reach down in the crease with a pencil or dry erase marker and draw a line all the way across the heating pad. DO NOT USE A PERMANENT MARKER.



Pull the heater off the cushion. You need to cut some 1" holes in the heating pad to secure it to the cushion. Mark the pad for 5 evenly spaced holes centered on the line you just drew. I folded the pad across the line and marked the centers of the holes. Pretend you don't see my offset marks in the pic. I spaced them a little better the second time. Once you have the centers you need to mark 1/2" to each side and 1/2" above the fold. Snip the pad along the marks while the pad is folded. When you unfold the pad, you'll have 1" holes.



Now, grab some non-electrically conductive tape and run a strip on both sides of the pad so the holes are completely covered. This is important! If any metal touches the little conductive wires in the pad it could short it out and blow the fuse. Now, cut smaller 1/2" holes in the tape centered in the holes in the pad. I used a clear reinforced tape so others could see the holes. You should have something that looks like this.



Again, don't cut the tape too close to the edge of the holes.

Lay the pad over the cushion again and stuff the pad back down in the crease. The holes you made should line up with the metal bar. I marked the center of each hole on the bar. Zip ties will be used to hold the cover on the cushion. The factory style metal hog rings could short out the heating element and blow the fuse. Pull the pad off to make it easier to insert the zip ties. Be sure the ties go under the metal bar. I found it helpful to pull the ties up with needle nose pliers.



Once the zip ties are in lay the pad over the cushion. Pull both ends of each zip tie through the holes in the heater pad. DO NOT close the zip ties. Leave them open.



Once all of the UNZIPPED zip ties are pulled through the holes straighten the pad on the cushion. Be sure all the wrinkles are out and it's lined up straight. Fold one side back and remove the backing from the tape strips on the sides of the heating pad.