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i have the box and have not mounted it yet. do you have pics of the shims you made and how the were attached so that i may mock it up out of the car? i also have tti headersand do not wish to fight it all with fresh paint and the headaches that you have endured. thanks for posting this thread, very informative.



Considered several shim methods. As I had once used a piece of steel stock to remove an oil pan problem thought would work well for this,,(can be obtained any hardware retailer) in lengths of 3 ft or so for less than 10 bucks.

Piece I purchased was about 1 inch wide by 1/4 inch thick.

Take a look at the 2 bolt hole mounting flange on your Borgeson.

Cut off a piece of steel stock that measures the length of it,,,3 or 4 inches.

Hold this cut of piece along outer edge of the mounting surface of flange. From opposite side of flange, mark thru mounting holes the steel stock piece with marking pen.

Using drill press and 17/32 or there about drill, drill the holes.

Using hack saw or cut off tool, cut from edge so that holes on short side extend to the edge.

Smooth out all edges.

On my 440 engine with 2 inch TTI's, could only remove and replace box from above after removing battery box etc. Tight but made it after a bit of gymnastics

Warning. I was removing an already installed Borgeson to replace it. Had removed stock box FF with K member out of car.

Squirm Borgeson in place, start all 3 bolts carefully. Easy to cross thread. Someone had done this on my car,,,I know who,,was not I.

From beneath car, slide shim into place on 2 bolt side and tighten up bolts. Not too tightly yet.

Install Bergman coupler and attach steering shaft.

Inside car raise column and fasten into place using the 2 studs on dash. Go back under hood and take a look at shaft. Is it going straight into coupler . If so, all is likely ok.

If at an angle, either you do not need shim or perhaps need more than 1/4 inch. If shim not required, remove it. If all is well, torque bolts to about 100 pounds.

Turn steering wheel full left OR full right. Go opposite direction to full lock,,about 3 3/4 turns. Divide by 2, take wheel there. Flat spot on shaft should be at exactly 9 o'clock pointed at chassis.

Your steering wheel may be 180 degree off,,reverse it on "shoe" side of coupler. Set screw on coupler should be at 9 directly over flat spot.

Complete installation and check alignment. If toe in was spot on before, pitman should almost fall into drag link.

Got you pm, will take photos of plug wires. I used Bergaman coupler and metric hose adapter. Used my own hoses.

Sorry on 6 point bolts, as noted mine were a bit buggered. Suspect someone had used an impact wrench on them at one time. I've ordered up new replacement 12 points,,,they are in the mail on the way. I recommend thread chasing K member bolt holes if any suspicion,,,like bolts coming out hard on removal.

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Last edited by Sxrxrnr; 10/30/14 01:14 AM.