FWIW, I swap my slicks from side-to-side after every race weekend. When I do that, I also lightly sand the shoes to eliminate any glazing that may be starting and readjust the brakes manually. I don't use self-adjusters. My theory is to make the rears harness the torque before it gets to the ground. Although important, the fronts only have a little patch from skinny tires to help hold the car on the line.

I turn the drums & smooth (or replace if worn) the shoes every year to insure everything is flat, whether you see anything or not.

I also use the cheapest shoes I can find. The seem to be the softest. Semi-metalic won't hold as well, especially when cold. I've also heard about buying 2 sets of shoes and using the ones with the most surface area on both, front and rear of the backing plate. Experimenting with master cylinders and/or a proportioning valve may help.

Wish I could offer some advice on the 60' times, but I have no experience in setting up a carb for use with a 2-step. I only footbrake.

Did you say it was like a Jeep? Short wheelbase? Got wheelie bars before you get it launching harder?

(Hope I didn't miss anything as I just quickly skimmed through the posts during lunch.)

Got a pic?