The Comps are nice little rockers for street duty. Make sure the clearance is right bewteen shaft and bushings. My understanding was Comp was nitriding the shafts, hence the color. I had got some of their shafts when they first started, and I wouldnt call them the beefiest shaft out there, but absolutley fine for their intended useage. That little bit of flaking is nothing to worry about. Making sure they are sized or clearance well is whats important. The Comps are nice too because of the reverse cup style adjuster, which makes pushrod selection way way easier.

As far as the roller vs solid vs bushing debate, well, it all makes great topic of conversation, but in the end, real world results trump all. I have used and repaired every brand imaginable for Mopars especially, and they have all had success when used in the right application.I will say that again, the RIGHT application. Many times rockers are chosen by price point rather than reason. That will almost always result in unsatisfactory results. If a rocker is run dry, it will fail, If a roller is run dry, it will fail. If a spring pressure is too great, it will fail. If shafts are put on wrong, it will fail. It shafts are of the wrong hardness for the corresponding rocker material, it will fail. You get the idea.

I have run Harland Sharp rockers ( same sets) for over 20 years in race cars without failure. I have ran Crane Golds for over 15 years without failures ( other than screws being soft). I have ran Comp Pro Magnums on street engines with great results. I have just started trying the Hughes rockers on Stock Eliminator cars,and I am pleased with them . I think they are a good value, and geometry was good.
My opinion is there is some mis information in this post, and in the end, you need to determine what is important in your own build, and take action accordingly. My feeling, based on almost 30 years of this, is rockers are NOT a good place to take short cuts, and offshore rockers are not a wise investment. My