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*Double check your firing order.I have seen the 5-7
traded more often than you'd think(done it myself)


Yup, checked this too... it's correct
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*You had vacuum leaks, you may have fixed them-GOOD!Do the careful covering of the venturis thing again and see if the idle still speeds up-maybe the intake gaskets themselves are leaking.You can check PART of this by spraying penetrant around the top of the ports.If the idle speeds up, you need to regasket the intake.Obviously you cannot check the underside this way, but it's a start.


I'll double check that... thanks.. forgot about that technique.
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*what kind of cam do you have?this 360 I just did has "one step above stock 340" and it has a pretty good lope,and runs rough until warmed up,
but pulls a solid 15" of vacuum at about 900-1000 idle.


It's a Comp Cam XE268H - moderate cam with the following specs:
Xtreme Energy XE268H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit
Lift: .477''/.480''
Duration: 268°/280°
RPM Range: 1600-5800

Since I can't get it to maintain an 'idle' of less than 1100 or 1200, I can't tell whether it's keeping steady vacuum there or not..

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*warm it up good before trying to adjust further


Yup, had it warmed up to about 200 degrees as I was trying to tune it
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*some cam setups REQUIRE a 'short fast curve' to get the initial timing up where it wants to be, while keeping the total advance to a "reasonable"
35'(this varies a bit for different engine combos)
I have a stock style chrysler dizzy with slightly welded up slots to get the initial where the motor "wants" it.Still running about 35' total.
*if I read between the lines, you have pertronics stuff triggering an MSD? You might consider scrounging up a stock chrysler mag pickup dizzy
to simplify your task?just a thought on overcomplication.

"Scrounge up" some Mopar parts? ha I'll see what I can find at a Junkyard.. probably not much though.
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*when you do get the initial where you want it, and plug the dizzy vac can into the PORTED orifice on the carb, you will see 50'of advance @
like 3000 rpm depending on the springs and weights in the dizzy.This is "normal".Timing should return to your initial @ idle.


OK.. I did see that,.. it went up to about 55 or so.. if I recall correctly
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*when you feel you have eliminated most (hopefully ALL) of the underlying issues try a vacuum gauge on the unported carb vacuum barb,and adjust your mixture screws for highest
warm idle vacuum.Won't always work on all setups, but sometimes does.Your ear is just not all that accurate.Vacuum should be relatively steady and not pulse too much if there are no serious mechanical problems in the engine(burnt exhaust valve, wiped cam lobe,worn out or broken piston ring etc.)
Best of luck, hope this helps.



Thanks for the response.. I just need to be able to get it to stay running at 900 rpm or so in order to be able to adjust the mixture screws on the carb..

I wonder if I need to get a new HB, since mine doesn't seem to be accurately reflecting TDC.. .?